Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
Tech Elite
iTrader: (45)
I think you hit the nail one the head this is not really a true "race truck". If it was you would not have to spend so much extra to address weak points and slop.
I think it's a great truck to race with but don't get the feeling it was designed as a racer. Hopefully they will come out with a team version one of these days that includes the hop ups like the better chassis, carbin towers, ha balls, etc.
I think it's a great truck to race with but don't get the feeling it was designed as a racer. Hopefully they will come out with a team version one of these days that includes the hop ups like the better chassis, carbin towers, ha balls, etc.
I think we're getting a bit ahead of ourselves thinking it has to have anything to be more than competitive.
If you want to take the truck to the next level, buy the TLR tuning kit which is a very nice package for a great price.
I ran the rx8 with a 4600 pro4 a 1015 assoc servo and a futaba 4pl.I definately needed a BEC in order to get my truck to get full throw in the stearing.Believe me i tried everything and the only thing that would work is the BEC.The way i found out what was wrong was i plugged a 150mah lipo into the receiver and ran it and it was awesome.I think that between the pro4 and the power hungry servos we got these days its just too much draw.Im sure not everyone needs to use a bec but for my situation i definately needed one.I have dealt with tekins customer service and they are great.This rx8 lasted me about 2 months of racing twice a week.Just in case your wondering im not running into pipes and walls either i run top three at my track.Ive just had some crap luck with tekin lately and decided to go the orion route thats all.Anyways thanks for listening.Later man.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
If I recall correctly, this truck in box stock format is fully capable and has beat the snot out of all the other 'race' trucks out there. There is no hardware that you 'have' to have for this truck; the only thing this truck needs to win is someone that can drive it.
I think we're getting a bit ahead of ourselves thinking it has to have anything to be more than competitive.
If you want to take the truck to the next level, buy the TLR tuning kit which is a very nice package for a great price.
I think we're getting a bit ahead of ourselves thinking it has to have anything to be more than competitive.
If you want to take the truck to the next level, buy the TLR tuning kit which is a very nice package for a great price.
Well i checked the Front,Center ,Rear diff case bearings and they feel somewhat knothy you guys were right about some of the stock bearings ! The center diff bearing kind of feels the same but not as bad. The gears look fine and diffs still feel like there breaking in still.
Oasis il be honest this truck is no worse really than the RTR Losi eights as far as wear. I would know from owning losi eights not the 2.0s the 1.0s.
Oasis il be honest this truck is no worse really than the RTR Losi eights as far as wear. I would know from owning losi eights not the 2.0s the 1.0s but i did have the 2.0 parts on it.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
IMO the stock chassis is fine, I have ran mine all season so far on the stock chassis and its nice and straight. BUT I have been racing for 6 or 7 years now so I don't go cartweeling down the straight either. I am planning on getting the BCE chassis very soon though, for other reasons.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
IMO the stock chassis is fine, I have ran mine all season so far on the stock chassis and its nice and straight. BUT I have been racing for 6 or 7 years now so I don't go cartweeling down the straight either. I am planning on getting the BCE chassis very soon though, for other reasons.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (37)
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
IMO the stock chassis is fine, I have ran mine all season so far on the stock chassis and its nice and straight. BUT I have been racing for 6 or 7 years now so I don't go cartweeling down the straight either. I am planning on getting the BCE chassis very soon though, for other reasons.
+1. I also still have the stock chassis and it hasn't bent. I dont crash very often either. I did replace my outdrives and shock towers though. Front shock tower never bent, but the rear slightly tweaked inward 2mm. And only the rear outdrives were grooved when I replaced them all. Nothing else has broken or bent. I might eventually buy the TLR kit and upgrade the chassis, but as of now its not needed. I club race once a week and race a local points series once per month plus big events in Az. Been running it since Christmas. I'm biting on the heels of our local Team Durango/Team Tekin driver, stock chassis and all.
yes stock chassis works good after running mine on 8th scale size tracks for half a year stock chassis is twisted and rear shock tower (stock) bends from those big triples. bought new tlr chassis and long brace its even more dialed than before.
I did not understand what everyone was talking about when they mentioned "nosediving" ...... until tonight. I ran on a smaller indoor track last weekend and had no issues, but there were no really long jumps. Then I ran on another larger indoor track tonight with some larger jumps. Oh man did I look like I was clueless, my poor front bumper has taken a BEATING tonight! If I did not hold a lot, and I mean A LOT of throttle coming off of the jump I would land squarly on the front bumper. And once it started going nose down not even full throttle could save it. I could just watch and wait for the hit.
Anyway, I am going to move weight back as I weight front/rear and found the chassis to be at about 52/48 right now. I may cut the front box up and mount the reciever in the rear behind the motor. One way or another I need to do something about the jumping attitude. Besides moving weight back and staying on the throttle while jumping are there any setup tricks to help?
I found that te servo saver was loose which I think was contributing to a big lack of on power steering, but I am also going to try 3-4-2 in the diffs. Over all he truck drove all right, but I was super nervous every time the tripples came up due to the jumping attitude. I was ready to tape an 1/8 scale wing to back of the truck by the end of the race...
Anyway, I am going to move weight back as I weight front/rear and found the chassis to be at about 52/48 right now. I may cut the front box up and mount the reciever in the rear behind the motor. One way or another I need to do something about the jumping attitude. Besides moving weight back and staying on the throttle while jumping are there any setup tricks to help?
I found that te servo saver was loose which I think was contributing to a big lack of on power steering, but I am also going to try 3-4-2 in the diffs. Over all he truck drove all right, but I was super nervous every time the tripples came up due to the jumping attitude. I was ready to tape an 1/8 scale wing to back of the truck by the end of the race...
stock
I run my truck without any upgrades completely stock roller except for diff fluid no grease. I love beating all the guys who have every single upgrade but cant even put in 3-4 consistent laps. Im no PRo by any means I just no how to make my truck work from the work bench to the drivers stand. Just goes to show drivers win races
stock
The stock chassis is junk, everyone that runs one at my local indoor track has bent the stock chassis..I disagree with you on not "having to have" anything..for one or two races yes, you can bend the stock towers & chassis back to almost straight..the stock suspension pivot balls are total junk, mine were worn out after 3 race days..the hard anodized balls are a "must have"..the SCTE is the best overall SC truck but it's not without it's problems..
My stock chassis is still fine even after a lot of hard bashing on mx tracks along side racing , guess its down to driver skill rather than the chassis being weak xD