9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
04-24-2012, 11:29 PM
But then i do know 2 people who have bent the stock chassis, one was by driving into a leg of a park bench and the other drove head long into a tree lol, neither by racing tho
04-24-2012, 11:42 PM
+1 on stocker being fine... I ran a stock chassis all last season on a 1/8 track with huge motocross style jumps and managed to keep it straight. I also ran that same chassis all winter on indoor offroad tracks still keeping it straight. I finally sold that truck and just did a new scte build and decided to get the Bump chassis.. with the new weight distribution it's iMO the best of them all now.
04-25-2012, 12:35 AM
I did not understand what everyone was talking about when they mentioned "nosediving" ...... until tonight. I ran on a smaller indoor track last weekend and had no issues, but there were no really long jumps. Then I ran on another larger indoor track tonight with some larger jumps. Oh man did I look like I was clueless, my poor front bumper has taken a BEATING tonight! If I did not hold a lot, and I mean A LOT of throttle coming off of the jump I would land squarly on the front bumper. And once it started going nose down not even full throttle could save it. I could just watch and wait for the hit.
Anyway, I am going to move weight back as I weight front/rear and found the chassis to be at about 52/48 right now. I may cut the front box up and mount the reciever in the rear behind the motor. One way or another I need to do something about the jumping attitude. Besides moving weight back and staying on the throttle while jumping are there any setup tricks to help?
I found that te servo saver was loose which I think was contributing to a big lack of on power steering, but I am also going to try 3-4-2 in the diffs. Over all he truck drove all right, but I was super nervous every time the tripples came up due to the jumping attitude. I was ready to tape an 1/8 scale wing to back of the truck by the end of the race...
Anyway, I am going to move weight back as I weight front/rear and found the chassis to be at about 52/48 right now. I may cut the front box up and mount the reciever in the rear behind the motor. One way or another I need to do something about the jumping attitude. Besides moving weight back and staying on the throttle while jumping are there any setup tricks to help?
I found that te servo saver was loose which I think was contributing to a big lack of on power steering, but I am also going to try 3-4-2 in the diffs. Over all he truck drove all right, but I was super nervous every time the tripples came up due to the jumping attitude. I was ready to tape an 1/8 scale wing to back of the truck by the end of the race...
Yup i raced at a indoor carpet offroad track last night and it did the same thing yours was doing the thing i did was stay on the throttle in the air and blip the throttle on big jumps. But the best thing i figured out is to not hit the jumps with a lot of speed just enough speed and it will land good no nosediving .
But a harder front spring and stiffer shock oil or a front ride height change will slove that problem i think.
As for diff oil i was running 3,5,2 on a carpet surface it wasnt bad but the rear end needed heavyer diff oil it was gripping to much and traction rolling at times but that could be the tires i was using. I cant tell you really what diff oil to run .
The servo saver i cranked my down to two treads with locktight on the treads and man this truck was turning and had a lot of turn in !
04-25-2012, 01:23 AM
I have found that approaching bigger jumps at a normal speed and punching it as soon as the front wheels hit the face works much better than getting a running start. I also stay on the throttle just a little to keep it level. Been hitting the tripple every time since starting this. It was also recomended to me to put a 1/4oz right under the rear drive shaft in front of the gearbox. I know adding weight when we all do everything to trim it sounds crazy. But with the torque the Pro4 puts out how light does it really have to be?
04-25-2012, 01:37 AM
Hi all my first post on here ..
first off I own both the losi scte 4wd and the associated sc10 4wd .. both in RTR configuration.
took both down to the track wich is mainly fairly loose top with hard surface underneath .
the losi running on its tyres out of the box was just amazing handled like a dream and a novice like me felt confident in it when pushing hard .
in comparison the sc10 4x4 was a shitbox to be honest I could not for the love of god drive the truck it was twitchy taily and just plain undriveable absolute rubbish waste of my money !
so Im sticking with the Losi it is for someone like me a weapon just loved driving it today and to boot it is a tough truck copped a pounding with massive jumps and massive crashes did not break anything till my last run the ESC came loose and snapped the on off switch wires !
I also ran it on some aka premounted tyres from my sc10 I think they where pressure points and it was excellant a little oversteer out of corners
now want to play with it maybe put thicker oil in the diffs , does anyone reccomend oils for the diffs
cheers
first off I own both the losi scte 4wd and the associated sc10 4wd .. both in RTR configuration.
took both down to the track wich is mainly fairly loose top with hard surface underneath .
the losi running on its tyres out of the box was just amazing handled like a dream and a novice like me felt confident in it when pushing hard .
in comparison the sc10 4x4 was a shitbox to be honest I could not for the love of god drive the truck it was twitchy taily and just plain undriveable absolute rubbish waste of my money !
so Im sticking with the Losi it is for someone like me a weapon just loved driving it today and to boot it is a tough truck copped a pounding with massive jumps and massive crashes did not break anything till my last run the ESC came loose and snapped the on off switch wires !
I also ran it on some aka premounted tyres from my sc10 I think they where pressure points and it was excellant a little oversteer out of corners
now want to play with it maybe put thicker oil in the diffs , does anyone reccomend oils for the diffs
cheers
04-25-2012, 01:59 AM
Hi all my first post on here ..
first off I own both the losi scte 4wd and the associated sc10 4wd .. both in RTR configuration.
took both down to the track wich is mainly fairly loose top with hard surface underneath .
the losi running on its tyres out of the box was just amazing handled like a dream and a novice like me felt confident in it when pushing hard .
in comparison the sc10 4x4 was a shitbox to be honest I could not for the love of god drive the truck it was twitchy taily and just plain undriveable absolute rubbish waste of my money !
so Im sticking with the Losi it is for someone like me a weapon just loved driving it today and to boot it is a tough truck copped a pounding with massive jumps and massive crashes did not break anything till my last run the ESC came loose and snapped the on off switch wires !
I also ran it on some aka premounted tyres from my sc10 I think they where pressure points and it was excellant a little oversteer out of corners
now want to play with it maybe put thicker oil in the diffs , does anyone reccomend oils for the diffs
cheers
first off I own both the losi scte 4wd and the associated sc10 4wd .. both in RTR configuration.
took both down to the track wich is mainly fairly loose top with hard surface underneath .
the losi running on its tyres out of the box was just amazing handled like a dream and a novice like me felt confident in it when pushing hard .
in comparison the sc10 4x4 was a shitbox to be honest I could not for the love of god drive the truck it was twitchy taily and just plain undriveable absolute rubbish waste of my money !
so Im sticking with the Losi it is for someone like me a weapon just loved driving it today and to boot it is a tough truck copped a pounding with massive jumps and massive crashes did not break anything till my last run the ESC came loose and snapped the on off switch wires !
I also ran it on some aka premounted tyres from my sc10 I think they where pressure points and it was excellant a little oversteer out of corners
now want to play with it maybe put thicker oil in the diffs , does anyone reccomend oils for the diffs
cheers
04-25-2012, 02:07 AM
04-25-2012, 04:56 AM
Have a whole lot of fun.....
04-25-2012, 05:16 AM
I've said it more than once , but if you are nosediving, it is your shock setup that is the issue, not the truck being nose heavy. The truck was designed that way for a reason, i.e. better on power steering, more corner speed through the sweeper......... if your nosediving, your either too soft in the rear and are chassis slapping causingthe rear to buck up, or too springy in the rear....ect ect....
04-25-2012, 05:36 AM
The stock chassis is junk, everyone that runs one at my local indoor track has bent the stock chassis..I disagree with you on not "having to have" anything..for one or two races yes, you can bend the stock towers & chassis back to almost straight..the stock suspension pivot balls are total junk, mine were worn out after 3 race days..the hard anodized balls are a "must have"..the SCTE is the best overall SC truck but it's not without it's problems..
I run the originial stock bodies, plastic tops and my shocks have been working great (the anodizing has been holding up really well for me). I do have the new HA bodies, tini shafts and bleeder caps in my shopping cart now - not because they're a necessity.
There were some items that did need to be addressed when it first came out of the gate, and I think that was done with the newer iterations. And I'm not saying that the truck is perfect, it can certainly use some work to be perfect. But I'm of the opinion that the option parts are just that. Options.
04-25-2012, 05:39 AM
File this under 'to correct myself / I forgot to mention' folder:
I think the truck should come with either a reinforced rear tower, perhaps carbon. In my opinion that is probably a must-have.
I think the truck should come with either a reinforced rear tower, perhaps carbon. In my opinion that is probably a must-have.
04-25-2012, 06:11 AM
Tech Rookie
I have found that approaching bigger jumps at a normal speed and punching it as soon as the front wheels hit the face works much better than getting a running start. I also stay on the throttle just a little to keep it level. Been hitting the tripple every time since starting this. It was also recomended to me to put a 1/4oz right under the rear drive shaft in front of the gearbox. I know adding weight when we all do everything to trim it sounds crazy. But with the torque the Pro4 puts out how light does it really have to be?
Correct suspension set up combined with the above technique = no more nose diving. Been driving this truck on tracks for a good while now and unless I'm hitting the face of jumps wot instead of accelerating up the face, I've never had a nose dive issue. Also helps if you are actually getting to the backside of the jump. Coming up too short or too long makes jumping attitude a secondary problem IMHO. Learning to accelerate up the face will square this away too.
04-25-2012, 06:58 AM
Anyone notice on the New RTR's that the rear hub hinge pin is excessively long. Dirt guards and a little shim solves it, But why the heck did the pin length change ?
04-25-2012, 07:08 AM
+1
Correct suspension set up combined with the above technique = no more nose diving. Been driving this truck on tracks for a good while now and unless I'm hitting the face of jumps wot instead of accelerating up the face, I've never had a nose dive issue. Also helps if you are actually getting to the backside of the jump. Coming up too short or too long makes jumping attitude a secondary problem IMHO. Learning to accelerate up the face will square this away too.
Correct suspension set up combined with the above technique = no more nose diving. Been driving this truck on tracks for a good while now and unless I'm hitting the face of jumps wot instead of accelerating up the face, I've never had a nose dive issue. Also helps if you are actually getting to the backside of the jump. Coming up too short or too long makes jumping attitude a secondary problem IMHO. Learning to accelerate up the face will square this away too.
Thanks guys for the tips they all add up for great racing!!!!!
Love it or Sell it!!!
04-25-2012, 07:09 AM
Just saw that Nitrohouse has the Bump chassis and TLR tuning kit combo for $189. Tying....to...keep....walllet...in....pocket.....: lol: