Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
Tech Master
iTrader: (90)
I ran the rx8 with a 4600 pro4 a 1015 assoc servo and a futaba 4pl.I definately needed a BEC in order to get my truck to get full throw in the stearing.Believe me i tried everything and the only thing that would work is the BEC.The way i found out what was wrong was i plugged a 150mah lipo into the receiver and ran it and it was awesome.I think that between the pro4 and the power hungry servos we got these days its just too much draw.Im sure not everyone needs to use a bec but for my situation i definately needed one.I have dealt with tekins customer service and they are great.This rx8 lasted me about 2 months of racing twice a week.Just in case your wondering im not running into pipes and walls either i run top three at my track.Ive just had some crap luck with tekin lately and decided to go the orion route thats all.Anyways thanks for listening.Later man.
Tech Master
iTrader: (90)
Once you see it bend, please fix or replace it. Your SCTE won't be lined up and you'll end up breaking other parts.
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
The stock chassis is weak, it's not driver skill or anything... it's just cheap metal. It's just some people can get a year+ out of weak/cheaper metals and that's great.
Once you see it bend, please fix or replace it. Your SCTE won't be lined up and you'll end up breaking other parts.
Once you see it bend, please fix or replace it. Your SCTE won't be lined up and you'll end up breaking other parts.
For me, the stock chassis just wears too fast. I've had this issue on my RTR 8ight too. The rear end of the chassis was literally down to 1.5mm before I replaced it.
I'm running DE rear skid plates on my SCTE now though...
I'm running DE rear skid plates on my SCTE now though...
My setup may in fact be wrong. Currently running #3 piston in front 32.5 black spring, and #3 in rear, 27.5 and silver spring. Might need to go to 30 in rear with black spring. It does not feel too soft or springy, but I can see how the rear end could be compressing too much allowing the rear end to kick up when leaving the face. I am sure I can adapt, I am juts used to 1/8 where this was a non issue. Kind of caught me off guard.
We changed the length of the shoulder on this hinge pin some time ago as customers with the old one would wrench the two nuts down and this would bind the suspension. So, now, you can tighten both nuts fully and it no longer binds anythings and the nuts no longer loosen up on ya.
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
I'm just now updating my chassis, ordered the BCE chassis.
I had the stock chassis milled last year and has lasted over a year and is just slightly tweaked, not bad at all in my book considering I had the chassis milled before any aftermarket ones were even on the horizon, last year.
I had the stock chassis milled last year and has lasted over a year and is just slightly tweaked, not bad at all in my book considering I had the chassis milled before any aftermarket ones were even on the horizon, last year.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
The Ti nitride shock shafts & hinge pins are available..just got mine yesterday..
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (198)
OLD Springs?
My setup may in fact be wrong. Currently running #3 piston in front 32.5 black spring, and #3 in rear, 27.5 and silver spring. Might need to go to 30 in rear with black spring. It does not feel too soft or springy, but I can see how the rear end could be compressing too much allowing the rear end to kick up when leaving the face. I am sure I can adapt, I am juts used to 1/8 where this was a non issue. Kind of caught me off guard.
I opened all my diffs last night and noticed from the gears breaking in the oil is grayish/light black should i change the diff oil again after that ? Also with the Metric shim kit for the ring and pinion what backlash should i set it at and how many ?
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
Shimming. You can do this if you feel it is needed. when shimming you just want to take up excessive play. You do not want to take it all out though. There should be just a little wiggle room left in the system otherwise you are binding things up and creating drag.
orings
hacker07 will the orings that come with the new bleeder shock caps be available separately
The diff fluid will turn grey/black forever. Different people will give you different answers on when you should change it out. I tend to do it before big events or if I find a leak but if you just club race maybe want to change every 5-10 race days.
Shimming. You can do this if you feel it is needed. when shimming you just want to take up excessive play. You do not want to take it all out though. There should be just a little wiggle room left in the system otherwise you are binding things up and creating drag.
Shimming. You can do this if you feel it is needed. when shimming you just want to take up excessive play. You do not want to take it all out though. There should be just a little wiggle room left in the system otherwise you are binding things up and creating drag.
Ok thanks yea i was asking about the diff shimming because the stock diff case bearings on the pinion/ring felt a little notchy i think its mostly because the grease in them leaked out.
The stock chassis is weak, it's not driver skill or anything... it's just cheap metal. It's just some people can get a year+ out of weak/cheaper metals and that's great.
Once you see it bend, please fix or replace it. Your SCTE won't be lined up and you'll end up breaking other parts.
Once you see it bend, please fix or replace it. Your SCTE won't be lined up and you'll end up breaking other parts.
The o rings are the same as the 22 RTR shock cap o-rings, so yes, I beleive they do. I am working on a different sealing system right now so this may change moving forward and I will let everyone know on here.