rcracenut

iTrader: (52)

Did you put the gasket in?

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

Two of mine go together no issues.. action is perfect.. my center diff if I'm not super careful on how the square blocks are sitting seems to be a touch rougher if you know what I mean. I'd guess you have similar issues where there is a little build up or your are not totally cleaned out where these blocks sit. With mine after I make sure they are perfect the diff goes together and is perfect.. fulll tightness. Anymore I go a step further and even use a RV seal on both sides of my gasket (thin layer) and this ensures no leakage once set. The only other thing I can think of is that when you glued in your metal inserts they (or at least one) was not fully seated.

Good Luck.

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

TBH if you are using the stock lugs with blue thread locker after a few applications there is a build up in front of the hexes.. they don't budge so the pins don't move. If you are using the serrated nuts w/o thread locker I suggest the hpi or upgrade losi like others mentioned and linked to.

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

I will ask again

mozzy

As I mentioned, this certainly isn't the first diff I've built/rebuilt.

I've built 6 x 1/8 kits from truggy's to buggy's & MT's also worked in 4 different hobby shops & never had an issue.

If Losi designed these diffs properly in the first place (with fixed metal inserts)I probably wouldn't have had an issue.

Yes, everything that came out of these brand new diffs was put back in & every speck of grease was cleaned out & the cups all dried.

I'm thinking that I may not have seated the metal inserts properly. Shame though, I've glued them.

I guess at worst my car will be permanent 4WD with out the centre diff unloading completely.

I'm on to the front now. I'll see how this one goes back together. I hammered the metal inserts in so they seat properly.

It's highly likely that I never seated the centre diff inserts properly.

Thanks for the input peeps!!

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

What you have to be careful with when putting in those inserts is they actually stick out the other side slightly so if you are just putting them in face down you can create a small gap on the inside. This wouldn't be a big deal I guess if you used grease to seal it, but when you glue them in place it makes it harder to get that perfect fitment. I did glue several of them, it does work quite well, but you need to be quick and VERY careful. I used a flat pair of pliers to hold the inserts and pushed them in place while hodling the diff cup in my hand to insure they went in fully. I also did a few diff's w/ RV sealant and it worked just as well but also gives you a chance to play with and even remove the inserts. The last way actually works pretty well is use some black grease btw and this is even easier to manage, but it will require more diff rebuilds as over time it will start to leak... you should get plenty of time off it though. All methods work.. The diff cups are cheap to replace and come with new metal inserts, I found they wear and create a lot of wobble anyway and are worth just swapping out to this fact alone. It would be nice to be able to just buy inserts since they are separate though, if they are selling as a kit anyway why not just make them part of the diff? No leaks no issues

scracer68

iTrader: (9)

I had one diff that was to tight. I think one of the inserts wasn't seated all the way when the glue dried. I put the diff together a little snug and put one outdrive on the flat part of my vise and tapped the other outdrive with a hammer to seat everything. It was smooth as butter afterwards and works flawlessly now.

JoeC

iTrader: (120)

Is anyone using the RCSHOX 2 stage pistons and if so what is your opinion on them. Do you have a setup that works well?

Tyler Keel

iTrader: (12)

Anyone have any ballpark of where to gear a Tekin Pro4 4600 on a medium/large track, generally open.

scracer68

iTrader: (9)

14T

mozzy

Well, I did the front diff & no problems.

However, you all will find this very interesting............I pulled apart the rear diff & I have been removing the planetary gears on the cross shaft with the aluminum blocks & shims still in place.

When I had removed both of the gear sets I saw another block wedged down next to the other gear!
Yep, there were five of those aluminum blocks in my rear diff!!

I can imagine what could've happened if I actually drove it!

So glad I decided to change to oil.

BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

Heres one for you i grabbed some extra diff cases built them with the different fluids i run with and just swap them out instead of rebuilding at the track.... but what Losi should do is make a metal diff case to ensure a round case as with the plastic ones can be slightly warped which leads to leaks....funny thing is my losi 8 diffs don't leak at all... i would love to just swap all the drivetrain with the losi 8....can i?

MattP

iTrader: (440)

So a castle 1410 4 pole 3800 is plenty for this truck right?

I just don't want to be underpowered.

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

its better to be underpowered. Csuse if ur overpowered and crap a bearing u can call it quits timm mig july when diff housings come back instock since theirs no help with ring gear lash/ pinion clearance.

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

Here is one easier.. I asked Ryan for this a LONG time ago and never heard anything..

Losi smart diff gears are nearly the same size as the stock, why not just have an HD housing (simliar to the 8ights) you can drop in the smart diff gears and be done with it. Not that the gears and pins are as much of an issue now, but if they can hold up to an 8ight-t, they can easily handle the scte. For that matter where are the smart diff's for the scte :P Front and center smart diff's would be pretty outstanding iMO.

The idea of running the 8ight diff's wouldn't work though as you would have to replace all your diff housings as well, then adjust the chassis and everything else. A little too much work.