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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Old 10-29-2012, 10:12 AM
  #40636  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
Casper, this is the SCTE thread. lol
Poop. I hate it when I do that.

More steering out of a stock SCTE. Again I would ask what tires you are running. Eclipse do a decent job but not the best indoor tire. Move the bottom of the front shock in on the arm will give more turn in. Also check your servo saver to make sure it is tight. They don't always come out of the box just right. Make sure your end points are set properly on the radio. Softer front spring will give some more steering as well.
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Zachfeen
I am still using grh stock tires, thinking about switching to calibers or AKA wishbones.

The local track is clay and pretty tight so turning is at a premium. I have an assortment of diff oils coming, does 7,5,3 sound ok? Battery is placed in the middle of the tray.
By reading many of the posts here, many will recommend 5/5/3 or 3/3/2 as a starting point for your truck. The tires you mention are very different. Talk to the local drivers at the track and see what they run. Tires could be a wasted expense if you purchase the wrong kind for your track. Hope this helps.
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:35 AM
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I would go with 5-5-3 for diffs. 3-3-2 is pretty light and I would only do that for rough outdoor in lower traction.

Yeah calibers or wishbones are hole different family of tires. What are others running. Indoor clay you are looking at Panther Rattler, Proline suburb or ion, JC barcodes type of AKA wishbones as more common tires assuming not a lot of dust. Check with the locals and see what seems to be the most common tire and start there.
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:39 AM
  #40639  
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Originally Posted by Zachfeen
I am still using grh stock tires, thinking about switching to calibers or AKA wishbones.

The local track is clay and pretty tight so turning is at a premium. I have an assortment of diff oils coming, does 7,5,3 sound ok? Battery is placed in the middle of the tray.
Quick fix for steering on a tight track - pull off the front sway bar. Tuning the truck is going to help as well, and the option parts you want for more rotation is a tuned chassis with a long rear brace.

Also - find out what tires they are running at your track. Wishbones and Calibers are at completely different ends of the spectrum - one is for hard pack indoor with little dust and one is for loamy outdoor surfaces.
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:58 AM
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check this out guys Losi is looking for drivers

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater
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Old 10-29-2012, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rcgod
Yes front and rear. 32.5/27.5
you're probably still running 22 low friction o-rings. i went back to the stock x-rings. i ran these pistons yesterday at norcal's indoor track. with the stock x-rings, i get more stiction than you do, so i have to adjust the oil a bit. i started with 30/27.5 and the rear was a tad too thick. felt just a bit lazy. even with that, the truck felt very good. i'm going to put 25 in the rears and it should be perfect.
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Zachfeen
Couple quick questions. i just got my SCTE put together and without doing any setup mods, I ran it at the local tight indoor track. The truck flew good out of the box but the damn thing just won't turn. It pushes terribly while other trucks are turning on a dime. The steering servo is plenty (savox 1258th), what setup mods can I do to get this thing to turn better?
I'm trying to get over the same problem with my scte. I put 5-5-3 in my diffs and that helped. I would also suggest moving your battery forward in the tray, that helped mine quite a bit. I also laid my front shocks down and stood the rear shocks up. I'm basically running the ryan dunford setup. Not sure what kinda surface you're running on but I'm guessing if it's indoor it's probably hard packed clay. If that's the case, try some gold compound barcodes for tires.
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:36 PM
  #40643  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
How do you like those rpm a-arms? Do they weigh more than the stockers? Just had to replace one of my stockers with another stocker because it wasn't holding my droop adjustments. Also on a front stock a-arm i managed to crack the part where the shock bottom attaches.
The rpm a arms don't weigh any more they are just more durable. I tend to over do everything and I'm building this just to have fun. I haven't used the truck yet, so I don't know on the scte.

I have used rpm a lot in the past and the difference is noticeable if your a true racer. Typically stock arms are more responsive, rpm arms don't break, but flex a little. I can tell the difference.

If your a racer at the level that every little bit helps, stay stock. If your fast and are just looking to have fun, and don't want to replace the a arms, buy rpm.

I have a total of 8 stock a arms that are new. PM me off your interested.
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Gene158
I'm trying to get over the same problem with my scte. I put 5-5-3 in my diffs and that helped. I would also suggest moving your battery forward in the tray, that helped mine quite a bit. I also laid my front shocks down and stood the rear shocks up. I'm basically running the ryan dunford setup. Not sure what kinda surface you're running on but I'm guessing if it's indoor it's probably hard packed clay. If that's the case, try some gold compound barcodes for tires.
This sounds counter-productive to give yourself more steering

forward in the tray = increase forward steering/traction (good)
laid my front shocks down = decrease steering
stood the rear shocks up = decrease steering, rear end has more bite and will push

Tires and shocks are the 2 more important thing though. Just my 2 cents...
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:47 PM
  #40645  
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The rpm arms have less rear droop than stock, which is no bueno for most setups.
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:59 PM
  #40646  
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo
This sounds counter-productive to give yourself more steering

forward in the tray = increase forward steering/traction (good)
laid my front shocks down = decrease steering
stood the rear shocks up = decrease steering, rear end has more bite and will push

Tires and shocks are the 2 more important thing though. Just my 2 cents...
I learned it the exact opposite way. I thought standing the shocks up in the rear makes the rear end stiffer, allowing less traction and more steering. I also though laying the shocks down in the front makes the springs softer and helped the front end grip better and provide more steering . Please correct me if i'm wrong, because if i am, then i've been doing all my shock positions wrong.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:34 PM
  #40647  
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According to JQ's The Guide :

"Leaning just the rear shocks over increases rear traction and reduces overall steering, although depending on the set up, you may get more steering into the corner."

So it reduces steering but you may get more steering.... or something
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:01 PM
  #40648  
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Here's an RC related video everyone should love
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffEYq...ture=g-all-lik
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Pygmy
Here's an RC related video everyone should love
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffEYq...ture=g-all-lik
That's awesome!
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:26 PM
  #40650  
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo
This sounds counter-productive to give yourself more steering

forward in the tray = increase forward steering/traction (good)
laid my front shocks down = decrease steering
stood the rear shocks up = decrease steering, rear end has more bite and will push

Tires and shocks are the 2 more important thing though. Just my 2 cents...
Depends where he needs the steering.Laying the front shocks down will increase steering in the middle and exit.standing them up will give more turn in.On the rear standing them up will increase steering because the truck will have less side bite and the shocks will be quicker to react.But yes tires are 90% of any setup.
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