WHOOPS

WHOOPS I'm a NOOB

I can't wait to get the 710, it takes to much time to get the diff out of my PRO

I'm still very sorry!!!!!

I run on a small tight tech track and can tell ya what I run:
frt:
30wt red springs 3/4 holes
sway bar at softest
mounted to bearing block
lg and med caster shims in frt Ibelieve its 6 degree
.05 tow out
ride hgt41/2
-1 droop
one way
fc blocks
rear:
30wgt bluesprings/red depends 2/3 holes
I run a stock impact rear sway bar
I run the rear tower of the 705 1st hole from bearing block and than I switched to the rear tower of impact top hole its inbetween the bearing block hole and 1st hole on the stock 705 tower
1.75-2 tow in rear
61/2 rear droop
41/2 -5 on ride hgt depends on track
47/22 reargear side 18/25 using vector pulley and traxxas side
belt std frt
gives me an overdrive of 2 1/2% I like it that way

15/18 50/46
58mm-61mm tyresjust watch ride hgt and adjust droop accordingly same mmtyre all around

3.0 camber rgt rear 3.5 left rear
frt 1.0-1.5 depending on wear I try to wear them as flat as poss.

Has a slight push because of the overdrive(but everywhere else it on) but it hauls ass thru the infield and coming on to the 90ft straightI had raced for 15yrs and got out of it for 4yrs and just got back in it 3 months ago and Ive been working on my driving and the car set up wish I would of started in spring Id be right thier with our top drivers cause im close now just not consistant but going indoors to race 12th scale this winter will improve my driving alot.I still wanted to do some more changes to the car but our weather is getting colder and all and the outside racing is over.The setup I put up works for my driving style for now

You must be gutted dude! still perhaps you could exchange it for the new 710.

Jesus!!!!

didn't have a look for two days and I'm completely lost!!!! For sure this forum is growing fast.

Luckily Julius took over and no complaints about his answers from my side.
Seems a lot of you guys are looking for a small track set-up. Mmmh, I have to admit, that my experience with small tracks is very basic. But thinking about it, it seemes logical to me to assume that the main difference is that there are hardly any on-throttle corners on smaller tracks.
So regarding set-up you just have to get your car to turn in, anything on-throttle is of little interest.
That means to me a very "open" diff and probably quite a lot of caster. Also it maybe useful to get away with as little rear toe as possible.
If a front diff is usefull or noe depends: if there are only few braking corners, a one-way front may be better. If you have to brake a lot, use a diff.

hehehhehe!! I'm from Puerto Rico, my first language here es el Español,, jejjejeje!!!!,, of course I read español,, I'm just courious and happy that you understand a little Spanish,, and yes I saw and recorded all the photos!!

I was under the impression to always keep rear toe-in at a minimum? Enough to not have on-throttle oversteer, not too much to minimize tyre scrub and loss of power.

How will the settings on the rear suspension of the 710 exactly change the toe settings?
From next to nothing on a straight to some toe-in under acceleration? Or even some toe-out while braking maybe?

Regards,
Kevin

hmm.. I think with the 2.5% (or 102.5% OD) we sort of hit the jackpot like D mentioned before.
Same OD I used, just put a pair of correct shore than the car suddenly became more forgiving to drive.

From your experience year of driving Im not even 10% comparing to you. So please share your comments for my feelings about the tire shore in 705...(Guys...Can we talk it in here?? or we must back to 705 thread?)
Here is my feeling (mostly happen in heat): when i do practice lap in 1-2min before heat and my car working perfectly from the beginning, I feel bad because mostly in half way to finish 5min heat the car handling is change to be having more grip in front.
If in the practice lap, my car is having slight push (on throttle) I know my car will getting better and stay consistan for 5 min heat and same feeling for long final.

I am very much appreciate your input, coz i think this tire shore is very critical, at least for my 705 setup.

My LHS here in Puerto Rico is offering me the 710 at $389.95, I think is a really great price for an intruduction Item!!,,

Ciao!

Michael, your suggestion seems to suggest to make the car have more on power steering with more caster and less rear toe in...

Like what RacerDude mentioned, shouldn't the rear toe in be more for technical tracks to prevent on power oversteer? Besides for a small track, scrubbing speed in the straight line is not so important and using more rear toe in, your rear is more stable.

I think in my opinion, to get more turn in the sharp corners and apexes, less caster is required...

I would agree on the open / looser diff though.

Like what Mark mentioned, make sure your front trackwidth is below 200 mm by screwing in the pivot balls all the way in. The FC steering blocks have the tendency to make the front wider. Also, make sure that the front (and also rear) wheels are equal distance from the side to the centerline of the chassis.

I find that if you set the front AND rear trackwidth to close or less than 200 mm, you'll get a lot of turn in. Mine is set 199 mm front and 198 mm rear. The 705 will have a wide rear trackwidth (over 200 mm) when you use a camber more than -2 if I'm not mistaken. I believe most of the time, we need more camber in the rear like -3 or -4. I solved this by cutting the rear upper arms like I have shown earlier in the thread to get the rear trackwidth to below 200 mm and still use -4 for camber.

For smaller tight tracks, the rear diff needs to be loose if you're using one way front. This coupled with the front and rear trackwidth of less than 200 mm will give you good turning radius. As good as the MTX-3 even when my rear diff is set medium hard. A little less caster (more clips in the rear of the upper arm) will give you better initial turn into tight corners. Not too much or you'll get problems with oversteer. Sway bar to the softest setting. Perhaps you may even want to try without sway (take off front and rear sway bars). This setting can be good on a small tight track. Also, a looser rear diff always help.

And lastly tires. You may want to go with softer tires and see if it works good.

Yea I usually ran 60mm all the way around.The wear was almost even from front to back.But you have to consider that I run on a perm.track surface that doesnt wear tyres out.One major thing I will tell you that my car is balanced side to side front to back and that makes a huge amount of difference that the wgt is dist.even on the car.I feel as tho it does show because of the tyre wear being so even(also I believe the OD helps out to)same goes with the building and setup of the car.The shocks to me are one of the most important things when I build my car that I want the lft and rgt to be the same I bought the Losi shock tool and it took 2hrs to just get the frt shocks right and over an hour to get the rear set.Im just fickle when it comes to that.I just look at it as the car is1/10 and if I find a small problem that might mean nothing to me its 10times to the car . So I build and work on it till its right.I did relize something that Michael said that a more open diff would work on a smaller track I had mine really tight.so I wish I would of remembered that it would of helped the car alot and gave me some better lap times for sure.But after a 4yr lay off the last 2 months back racing I tried to remember as much as I could and to try as much as I could.I do know one thing thoI race with 90% mugens on small tracks and the other guys couldnt believe that I had a Serpent handling like I did on a small track so that made my day and the car had me in the A main every week I might not have been the fastest as of yet but with the car I was sure catching them fast with only running it 2 months.I wouldnt own no other car but a Serpent and thats just the way I feel so im l;ooking forword to the new 710.Ive even got alot of new parts setting here FPS,adj diff and such that hasnt even been used thats ok tho im going to set up my 705 as an open class car with a lola body on it and run the 710 in touring.All I gotta say is im a 40 something yr ole kid having a blast!

Well D for me what I did was and I run on a really tight track with 3 180's was take the rear tow from2.5-2.0 and sometimes 1.75and added more caster to get the low speed off power turn in also I put a thicker rear sway bar on to help get rear side bite sooner in the car and it worked for me.So what I did was decrease the rear toe cause I had a slight push off power coming into a tight corner than I had a slight push on power coming out so I added a thicker rear sway bar and it made for a better driving car for entering mid and exiting just wish I would of thought about the to tight diff and ran it looser the car would of glided than

Yupp, We actually became dealers ourselves for Fg since parts were so difficult to get, let me know if you need a good deal on a big car Acctually, right now I am split 50/50 with the F1 and the 1/10 scale. I love the F1 for the scale and the quality of racing, but still, you have to love the 1/10 scale sedans too because it is soo competitive. So what do you do.. simple, cut back on work hours to free up more time for racing