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Old 11-18-2003, 12:55 AM   #901
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Originally posted by FREAKAH
Wow!

Looks like the 710 is the best thing that ever happened to the 950/950R.


I can't wait to see the 710 hit the track.......although i'll keep my MTX-3's.

I have never felt that the current crop of new nitro tourers like the R-40, G4, LD3, etc. were a real threat, but the 710 is scary.
I would rate the top TC as 705, NTC3, MTX3 (not in any particular order) as the three most popular TC. However the current trend is 710 and I believe that many will get the 710 and its gonna be the hotest thread in R/C Tech.
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Old 11-18-2003, 01:09 AM   #902
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Originally posted by AJunkie_02
Hey D,

thanks for the reply.. i'm gonna be a little more pain in the @$$ with the next question... if it has little difference in the CG, why do it on the 950-R? isn't the little bit of tuning does help sometimes?
Beats me but I have to admit about the cool factor of seeing just the top of the radio plate with no throttle servo ! Perhaps Michael, Julius, Rene or Rob from Serpent can directly address this issue here...

Like I said, I would think there would be some performance benefit using a laid down throttle servo. But I guess the performance benefit does not add up a lot when a lot of space is also take up side ways.

Talking about space, I also remembered someone (perhaps one of the team Serpent guys) say that by putting the throttle servo laid down, you take up space side ways and outwards from the centreline and while putting the weight down, you also distribute the weight more outwards. By putting more weight further away from the centreline, you create more polar moment in the car which is not good. That's all I can think of...
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Old 11-18-2003, 01:10 AM   #903
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Originally posted by FREAKAH

I have never felt that the current crop of new nitro tourers like the R-40, G4, LD3, etc. were a real threat, but the 710 is scary.
Some strong statement from a "pretty dog" there..
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Old 11-18-2003, 01:11 AM   #904
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Originally posted by InitialD
I think Julius mentioned here earlier in the 705 thread that Rene and sometimes himself used 4 cells (4.8V) for the receiver pack. We asked him if it was any difference in performance of the servos and he said he did not feel anything lacking.

I think if you're using controllers like Futaba 3PK or equivalent or external fail safe, you cannot use the 4 cells because the controller may lock when it detects the receiver pack to be less than 4.8 V. Unless of course you switch the battery fail safe feature off...

Anyway, Julius also added that the lower the voltage of the receiver pack, the lower the current draw.

Rene, how long can a 4.8 V receiver pack last in the car? Using both digital servos for throttle and steering?
Now be shocked, I run with 4 cells on the last test with the 710 2 hours and 35 minutes.
I donít drive with digital servos in the 200mm class. But I will try next time and will tell you how long with 2 digital servos.
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Old 11-18-2003, 01:12 AM   #905
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Originally posted by spawn
However the current trend is 710 and I believe that many will get the 710 and its gonna be the hotest thread in R/C Tech.
Really? Then I think you've jumped on the wrong bandwagon ! (j/k).
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Old 11-18-2003, 01:13 AM   #906
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Default Re: Re: Re: Wheelbase Question...

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Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm, how much further movement in total distance can the front wheels move forward and backward for the belt tension? What about the rear?
The wheels donít change the position.
Only the shafts (diff ore oneway) are moving. You can adjust it in 4 steps, totally about 0.6mm.
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Old 11-18-2003, 01:17 AM   #907
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rene C.
Now be shocked, I run with 4 cells on the last test with the 710 2 hours and 35 minutes.
Are you going for a marathon session? 2 hours and 35 minutes straight or in successive sessions?
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Old 11-18-2003, 01:19 AM   #908
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Wheelbase Question...

Quote:
Originally posted by Rene C.
The wheels donít change the position.
Only the shafts (diff ore oneway) are moving. You can adjust it in 4 steps, totally about 0.6mm.
InitialD must have forgotten that from the diffs out to the wheels, there are these little metal thingy called dog-bones that enables the suspension to move up and down and also forward and backwards..

it's a cam thingy which is similar to the front sway bar cam adjuster.. also similar to the rear-inner-upper-arm adjuster.. that only shifts the diffs forward and backwards..
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Old 11-18-2003, 01:21 AM   #909
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Wheelbase Question...

Quote:
Originally posted by Rene C.
The wheels donít change the position.
Only the shafts (diff ore oneway) are moving. You can adjust it in 4 steps, totally about 0.6mm.
Rene, as always, thanks for the very accurate answers ! Fred knocked some sense in me on the wheels moving when you adjust the belt tension !

Say, do you happen to look at how many number of teeths the side and front belts of the 710?
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Old 11-18-2003, 01:22 AM   #910
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Yes, like what PUNISHER mentioned, it looks like the same clutchbell as the one in Centax II. I'm hoping that they are the same actually...

I don't know how much drilling you did for the brand X car but Serpent mentioned that the reduction in weight for the lightened clutchbell option is about 10% only. But I actually like the idea that the clutchbell gets cooled better with the vents more than anything else.

Yeah, venting the push plate is a good idea. I think Art Carbonnel drills swiss cheese holes at the back of the clutchshoe to make it lighter too.

But there was mentioned that the 710 will NOT come with the lightened clutchbell?

Rene, can you confirm this?
Sorry, but the clutch-bell (centaxIII) is not the same then the centaxII.
Standard will be the closed bell.
Optional will be an open version.
Some people sad, that dirt comes in and then the clutch is failing. So we donít want to have some risky things. Thatís why we come with the closed version first.
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Old 11-18-2003, 01:23 AM   #911
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rene C.
Now be shocked, I run with 4 cells on the last test with the 710 2 hours and 35 minutes.
I donít drive with digital servos in the 200mm class. But I will try next time and will tell you how long with 2 digital servos.
i think Rene you can still make a 1 Hour with them but if you try it let us know
please spec. servo type then !
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Old 11-18-2003, 01:23 AM   #912
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Wheelbase Question...

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Originally posted by InitialD
Rene, as always, thanks for the very accurate answers ! Fred knocked some sense in me on the wheels moving when you adjust the belt tension !
dude.. relax.. i believe your kit will arrive pretty soon... patience..
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Old 11-18-2003, 01:24 AM   #913
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Originally posted by InitialD
Really? Then I think you've jumped on the wrong bandwagon ! (j/k).
limited budget and I am planning to run hard so a second hand car will do. Also I dont have to worry about scratches on the chassis anymore as its already scratched. Otherwise a new smooth chassis deserved to be on the shelves. Kissing the chassis will be a daily ritual!.
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Old 11-18-2003, 01:24 AM   #914
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Some strong statement from a "pretty dog" there..

Easy there tiger!

That "pretty dog" can easily change your name to "goldfingers".
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Old 11-18-2003, 01:24 AM   #915
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Wheelbase Question...

Quote:
Originally posted by AJunkie_02
InitialD must have forgotten that from the diffs out to the wheels, there are these little metal thingy called dog-bones that enables the suspension to move up and down and also forward and backwards..
Ummm, now Junkie also knocks some sense into me...
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