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Old 09-23-2004, 12:03 AM   #16051
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Originally posted by InitialD
Yeah... And that rear shock tower is also not doing what it is suppose to do. Send it back to Serpent.
Probably Sow will brake it for me in a couple of weeks
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Old 09-23-2004, 12:12 AM   #16052
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Originally posted by nitro rookie
I am going to have to make some drive shafts for myself this week, and was wondering if I could get some imput.
If you could improve the drive shafts on the 710, what would you make better.
Front shafts make it 0.75 mm longer on each side (from mytsn). For the rear shaft dogbone pin, make the inner pin longer in the rear driveshafts (11.7mm instead of 9.7mm) as this decreases the wear of the rear diff steelparts (from Per-Ola).
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Old 09-23-2004, 12:16 AM   #16053
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Originally posted by markp27
Exactly! I'm going to take a hammer to it next
Don't worry. Neither am I.
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Old 09-23-2004, 12:16 AM   #16054
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Originally posted by markp27
Probably Sow will brake it for me in a couple of weeks
A true blue crash test driver.
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Old 09-23-2004, 12:32 AM   #16055
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Originally posted by InitialD
Splutter as in choking or splutter as in sounding rich?

How many full turns out on your HSN and LSN? Are you using the carb insert?
Yes it is sounding as if it is too rich!

My needle settings are HSN 6 turns out LSN 4 1/2 turns out
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Old 09-23-2004, 12:48 AM   #16056
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Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Yes it is sounding as if it is too rich!

My needle settings are HSN 6 turns out LSN 4 1/2 turns out
Woowzers !

Lean (turn clockwise) the needles some more. I think optimally the needles should be somewhere like 2.5 to 3 turns out on the LSN and about 4.5 to 5.5 turns out on the HSN. That's just to give you an idea. When you close / lean the LSN, your idle will come up a little. Turn down / richen the idle needle (turn counter clockwise) to lower the engine idle.

Take a look at Josh Cyrul's engine tuning tip.
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Old 09-23-2004, 12:54 AM   #16057
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Originally posted by InitialD
Woowzers !

Lean (turn clockwise) the needles some more. I think optimally the needles should be somewhere like 2.5 to 3 turns out on the LSN and about 4.5 to 5.5 turns out on the HSN. That's just to give you an idea. When you close / lean the LSN, your idle will come up a little. Turn down / richen the idle needle (turn counter clockwise) to lower the engine idle.

Take a look at Josh Cyrul's engine tuning tip.
That's a good tip, D. A good friend of mine, whose name I've forgotten once sent me the same link
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Old 09-23-2004, 12:55 AM   #16058
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Woowzers !

Lean (turn clockwise) the needles some more. I think optimally the needles should be somewhere like 2.5 to 3 turns out on the LSN and about 4.5 to 5.5 turns out on the HSN. That's just to give you an idea. When you close / lean the LSN, your idle will come up a little. Turn down / richen the idle needle (turn counter clockwise) to lower the engine idle.

Take a look at Josh Cyrul's engine tuning tip.
Thanks Mark and D i will go study that link now!
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Old 09-23-2004, 03:05 AM   #16059
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Hi SERPENTFREAK69,

Quote:
one more question...what other options would you get?choco
Quote:
I will tell wath options I use from the front of the car up to the back, when I have some more time.
Now I have some more time.
Have been very bussy at work.

I use these options all on my chassis.
For me it works great, but every driver is different.
If you for example look at the car of Julius Kolff and Micheal Salven you will find out that they are both fast on the same track (Heemstede), but their parts used can be very different, and is different.
Micheal is never using the Alu-X-bracket, and Julius always use it.

The hop-ups work for me, but I can't guarantee that it will work for you s well.

I will work my way through the cars parts from front to back.
Partnumbers are included.

Up front I use the Alu anti-roll bar bevels.
They reduce flex, and are more easy to tune.
# 802241

I made a small cutout in the frontbumper to mount the transponder underneat the frontbumperholder (like Micheal Salven did on his car).

I did make the SWB-mod. I modifeid the front wheelbase. More info on that can be found here:

http://3hobby.com/modules.php?name=N...rder=0&thold=0

This really works great on high speed tracks with very tight hairpins. You have the feeling like the car is much shorter and that will make it more stable during cornering.

I use the Alu middleshaft- bracket. It reduces flex on this part of the car, and is much smoother as the stock part.
Backdraft is the weigt. It's more heavy as the stock part.
# 802155

To reduce weight, I use the light pulleys on the middle shaft (2), and on the 2 speed shaft ( on the side pulley).
# 802165 (2x)

I use the Alu-x-bracket. This to reduce flex, and it also looks very very nice
# 802136

I also use the pro tankbracket.
This will make the tank more "flexible" so the fuel won't shake that much, and will have not that much bubble's.
# 801157

For the brakes I use the vented brake disk. This due the fact that the vented disk is sort of selfcleaning during races.
I also use the pro brake-pads.
Disk: # 801345
Pads: #9607

In my diff I use the ceramic coated diff balls. These are very smooth, and ultra durable.
As grease I use the X-ray diff grease, since this is a high quality grease specially made for ball diff's.
Balls: # 1378
Grease: # 309500

On all four corners of the car I use the ST- rings.
These will make your bearings work better inside your upright's and steerinblocks.
# 802235

Inside my shocks I use the soft shock membrames, aswell as the shockcapfoamy's.
Set off foam and membrames: # 909446

I also have the set-up wheels. These are very nice and work great.
# 802831

I know I have a lot of hop-up's on my car, that some of you would consider as unnesecarry, but as I said, it is working for me.

The Alu shockbodies are not nesecarry in the Netherlands.
I find the stock composite shock very smooth, and working well.

I bought the car together with all the options, so I could easely build them in.

I went for these options instead of a set of titanium screws and ceramic bearings.
I know these Ti screws are very nice, but you need to have a very consistend driving style to prevent them from bending.
As for the bearings, I'm happy with the quality of the stock bearing.

I haven't used a front diff, or solid axle, because of the fact that it is not usefull on the tracks on wich I race.

This is it, I hope this is some usefull info for all of you.

Bye Thomas
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Old 09-23-2004, 04:06 AM   #16060
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Originally posted by markp27
That's a good tip, D. A good friend of mine, whose name I've forgotten once sent me the same link
Ah... That really good young friend of yours ! Bless his soul.
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Old 09-23-2004, 04:10 AM   #16061
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Ah... That really good young friend of yours ! Bless his soul.
Who was that nice guy anyway?
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Old 09-23-2004, 04:27 AM   #16062
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Originally posted by markp27
Who was that nice guy anyway?
Now that would be self incriminating isn't it?
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Old 09-23-2004, 04:29 AM   #16063
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Quote:
Originally posted by 840918001
For the brakes I use the vented brake disk. This due the fact that the vented disk is sort of selfcleaning during races.
I also use the pro brake-pads.
Disk: # 801345
Pads: #9607
Holy cow Thomas ! Thanks for sharing. I think you would get better performance with the 9606 vented disc instead.
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Old 09-23-2004, 04:40 AM   #16064
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Hi,

Quote:
Holy cow Thomas ! Thanks for sharing. I think you would get better performance with the 9606 vented disc instead.
No problem sharing the info

For the brakedisk #9606,
During most conditions here in the Netherlands those are no good.
You don't get your brakepads warmed up with those.
On some cold days I even use the stock one.

Bye Thomas
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Old 09-23-2004, 04:58 AM   #16065
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Quote:
Originally posted by 840918001
For the brakedisk #9606,
During most conditions here in the Netherlands those are no good.
You don't get your brakepads warmed up with those.
On some cold days I even use the stock one.
Cool ! I notice the 9606 vented disc is thicker than the 801345 and also with a slightly bigger diameter.

Over here, weather is hot all throughout the year. Normal temperatures are 30 to 34 degree Celsius.
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