all I can say is the front end width can make the difference between lifting in a high speed sweeper and being able to grind the paint off the inside board if you feel like it. Especially on an 8th scale
On sedans you should really try to stick with the wheel offset the car was designed for. running an oddball offset on the rims can make for a really screwed up setup on the chassis not to mention other things.

About a 5MM split on the front to rear on track width is what I usually run on my sedan

What about the downstops for smaller tracks? Is there any basic rule here?

Cheers, Mark.

Mark I use front down stops all the time now to eliminate traction roll. put a credit card under the front of the chassis and compress it down onto the card. adjust the front downstops so they just touch. your car will be almost impossible to traction roll. you will need to reset it every round to compensate for tire wear and adjust accordingly for a main

no need I have found to use them in the rear

.. Im not clear enough about that
Can I put it simply like this :
- Rear toe-in affect the off throttle steering
- Front toe-in affect the on throttle steering
Is this the condition you mean ? I know thats not as simple
as i wrote, but can I use that as a guideline, D ?

Are there offset wheels available for the front? The inside rim and tyre rubs against the steering block arm and joint even after adding hex ring (the hex lexan cut out method by MasterD)
To me this is what frustrate me the most of the 705!!

That's a good question Mark. I don't know how the gurus in Holland would approach it but this is what I do on my 705.

I forgot to mention that on top of all the things I do like caster, sway bar settings, tires, I play around with the rear downstops to get better steering on smaller tight tracks.

If I cannot get enough turn in on the the tight corners, I'll change the droop on the fly on the side track itself. No, I don't put it on the setting board. I guess I'm too lazy. This method proves to be quick and successful for me. Usually, I'll take my Hudy 2 mm allen on the trackside, pick up the car and from the bottomside, I give the downstop screws like half a turn clockwise on each side. Make sure they are equal turns on each left and right. I run my car again to see the difference. Not enough? I pull the car aside and do the same to get more rear droop so that more weight transfers to the front. I usually will do this trick first before attempting to change the caster as I like to keep the caster angle big in order to have as much on power steering as possible. Also, I like how more caster gives stability down the straights if required.

So the general setting I end up for smaller tight tracks is more rear droop (approx +4 or +5 thereabouts). Perhaps this is because like the caster setting, I like to stay with a slightly tighter rear diff to give me good on power steering out of the corners whenever I like it. Small or large tracks alike. I have never played with the front droop. It always stays at 0. My 2 cents.

That should be the fair street price around the world. Should not lower than $375, in case you wonder...

I'm amaze to find that we do things opposite !

Well on my tracks, it is almost next to impossible to traction roll with my 705 ! Perhaps it's due to the smaller front tires that I usually run or that our local tracks here simply sucks !

Anyway, that's a cool method to set front droop. But on a small track, do you need to play around with front droop seeing that you can never traction roll in the first place?

Sorry, I misread it as $395... you really get a good deal then..

lawndoggie, are you using the FC steering blocks? It's one of the better hop ups for the 705.

I find that I can use a wider selection of tires with the FC steering blocks. Plus, they last longer and are tougher than the stock steering blocks. I'm still using the same 1st pair when the FC steering blocks came out.

My basic rule is not to make the car too sensitive to handle. Some people like it can but others might be different. If you like the car to be responsive (in my case, too sensitive) then increase the rear downstops BUT !!! the car stability is poor,especially out of corner punch. Becareful of over punch coz the car might be out of controlled !. :-)

TQ

hey D need your opinion because here we go again

Terms
Downstops: suspension (physical chassis)down travel limiters

Upstops: suspension up travel limiters=Droop screws however referred to by many as downstops.

More caster: King pin tilted more rearward=more on power steering

Less caster: King pin stood more upright=more turn in steering

More rear toe =more turn in stability but less on power steering=push

Less rear toe=less turn stability but more on power steering=oversteer

do you agree?
This guy a few posts up seems to be getting confused some. and for some reason few people agree on terms.

Oh, you sound exactly like the Dutch ! They always think the other way around. 359 to 395 !

As far as droop heights go I usually set the rear of the car to have 2 mm of up travel under the chassis in the rear when the car is adjusted and sitting at the desired ride height. It gets tweeked all day. the front I usually set at 4MM up travel at ride height. wherever the drrop ends up is where it ends up. occasionally I will remove the wheels to make sure droop is balanced side to side once I tweek it at ride height.