Correct me if Im wrong, since there is still some overdrive even a little (in standard setup), the best split should be not more than 1mm for 5 min heat and not more than 2mm for long final says 30 min.
My opinions is pointing to make the car handling from start to finish does not change so much, in same front and rear shore for sure.
Im only a local TEAM serpent DRIVER though

D, sometimes it's not easy to be the tech guru... make the smallest mistake and everyone is all over you....

Man, this forum is going to explode the day people start getting their 710:s in...

Like how MS gets in a hot soup everytime when something goes wrong with the 1/8th scale car?

Oh well, life must go on !

Ya, I can't imagine what would happen... Can we say 15 pages a day?

Yes... That's after you found the ideal tire diameter setup.

The thing is how do you find that magical tire diameter size that would be the right one for your car setup and track conditions?

Also, I can imagine it is much more of a hassle to set the linkage with a laid down throttle servo.

Rene / Michael / Rob / Julius,

I have the chance to get the TP05 Outlaw inline pipe. Should I pass that and go for the TP06 Outlaw inline pipe?

What are their differences? Little or major? Thanks.

Go for the TP06.
The big difference between this pipes is, that the Tp05 is good to get high-speed. On lower rpm’s it’s not the perfect pipe. So when you only drive on fast tracks the TP05 is a good pipe.
For slower tracks I used (before TP06) the 2196 (an Impact pipe) for slower tracks. The TP06 is also very good on lower rpm’s and nearly as good as the TP06. Since this pipe is on the marked (ok, I had some pipes earlier to test) I only use this pipe.
In the country where I race there is a restriction of the diameter of the pipe (5.2mm). So I could not use the outlaw version.
It’s the best pipe I ever saw.

About the perfect tyre diameter on the 710.
The car works well with big and small tyres. With big tyres, about 64, (when you don’t change the ride height) you got a little under steer but a very simple driving car with a hot top speed. When the tyres are wearing to a diameter of 58, the car becomes very quick in the corners, but the top speed is a little missing. The ideal tyre diameter is different on each track, setup, and even driver. For me I like most a diameter of 60. Then I can play with the car, no under steering, but still fast on the straight.

Rene, Any word yet when we can expect to have part number lists /optionals on-line? I'd really like to stock up on stuff like belsts, pulleys, optional gears /some suspension components etc.

This is not my part at the serpent factory. So I could not say an exact date. Sure it will be soon. The guys are working on that.

Yes....I ordered most of the Serpent/engine/Nova Rossi stuff thru Mr. Lam, he is my ONLY source that I can trust......you won't get wrong with LAM SIR.

I have to say, WING JET owner does have a little up tight attitute since he is the earilest and ranked Serpent driver in Asia......however, he is no longer the fastest, HSC has several racer that have the higher rank then himself........but I remembered I brought 2 Serpent Impulse back in 99 with Centax thru him, and he did have a lot of input for us newbie at that time.

Well, I still remembered our time at HPI forum with you and Fastharry..........I have a good feeling we will continue that saga in here or RCzone (but I prefer here instead)........

Personally, I never thought I will let the NTC3 go, I was thinking about activated the HPI R40..........but after seeing the pictures of the 710.........I knew the NTC3 is going to EBAY, I knew this is not a mistake, otherwise, I would get the 705 last year...........but again, I am glad I did wait one year.

Beside, I like the idea about using PLASTIC over Titanium alloy stuff, I don't know about others, but ifi can use a stock car to race.....I would never need any upgrade or aftermarket.....

Only part I think SERPENT need to make it aluminiium or alloy is that PLASTIC 3 holes holder sitting right in front of the battery, that piece is so easy to break, and luckily, I had someone CNC me one of that piece, if 710 is using the same piece, I will have to have him to CNC one more for the 710.

The front battery holder is a new one. When you brake it i will call you Arnold Schwarzenegger.

Isn't it a law you would need to call him governor Swarchzenneger?


Car looks great. I really need to get a new one as my present vehicle is getting old, but without seeing one, and many new cars it is getting tough to choose, and it can only get tougher the longer I wait!

Hi Rene

Does the 710 come with the new low friction shock shaft seals and light bladder caps, also are the drive belts made of a lower friction material than the existing Impulse/705 versions. I notice that K Factory offer ultra low friction drive belts for the G4 which the reports say are significantly better than the standard belts in terms of drivetrain drag.

Man, you blink and you miss a lot on this forum, all with a car that isn't in the hands of the public!

Just a few questions I couldn't find the answers to wading thru all the pages:

1. What comes standard up front, ball diff, gear diff or one way? The solid diff conversion are options, correct?

2. How well fo the pulleys hold up. I still have bad memories of my old Kyosho demolishing pulleys after every 3 rund before swapping to the aluminum ones (one reason I'm running shaft now)

3. I see the battery pack is that funny shaped one with aaa cells made to it. Is it possible that an the red Ofna 'Brick' pack will fit instead?

4. Those rims are nice. What shore foams are going on them?

With all the feedback on this forum, I may have to take a chance and get one for next race season!