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Old 04-19-2004, 04:23 AM   #8431
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Default Re: Re: Re: scratched piston

Quote:
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Here it is
It looks deep. What about the piston liner?

I guess if the scratch is not at the top part where compression happens at TDC, then it should not matter. Me thinks anyways...
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Old 04-19-2004, 04:33 AM   #8432
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: scratched piston

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Originally posted by InitialD
It looks deep. What about the piston liner?

I guess if the scratch is not at the top part where compression happens at TDC, then it should not matter. Me thinks anyways...
If you were to run your finger over the scratch you wouldnt feal it it is more like a rub mark the inner seems to be fine
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Old 04-19-2004, 04:52 AM   #8433
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: scratched piston

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Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
If you were to run your finger over the scratch you wouldnt feal it it is more like a rub mark the inner seems to be fine
Look, I think that you should begin looking for a new piston and sleave combo... HOWEVER, me thinks that it would only make a difference to performance... I think that as dee said, it is at the bottom and actually would not make much of a difference to the compression. BUT, I would be very gently with the motor, I think follow my guidlines as closely as you can, maybe double the first bit, as in, run it twice.... Here it is again...

Remember that you mainly want to heat cycle the motor and let the components settle to the running conditions. What this means is run the motor in with the same fuel you intend to run the motor on. Run it very rich for about a minute, then stop the motor and let it cool completely, do this for 2 tanks Rather run it for 4 tanks, stopping the motor after a minute and letting it cool completely. Then run it a little leaner, the same way you did previously. You may want to run the motor in the car on a bench with a fan, letting the motor idle. After you have leaned the motor on the 3rd and 4th tanks, Lean it to slightly rich, then run the 5th and 6th tanks. now the car is nearly ready, take the car and run it at MAX 1/2 throttle, but cycle the speed up and down, but stop every minute and let it coll completely, do this for one tank. Once this is complete, with the motor rich, run it to full throttle and down to 1/4 throttle, cycle this for a minute, try to get at least ten cycles in the minute, stop and let it cool, do this for a tank. You can now set the car up to race tuning and run it as you need.


After you have done this, Replace the glow plug and you should be on the go. but I think that if you may need to check the compression very closely over the next few months, you may be fine with no harm done (really)
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Old 04-19-2004, 05:01 AM   #8434
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Default Re: update

Quote:
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Ok i have just polished piston it has come up VERY smooth but i have taken off some of the yellow coating of the side of the piston (is this bad) still seems to have good compression
Holy crap dude can you not read!! Dont polish the sides of the piston.
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Old 04-19-2004, 05:09 AM   #8435
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: scratched piston

Quote:
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
If you were to run your finger over the scratch you wouldnt feal it it is more like a rub mark the inner seems to be fine
That scratch should be ok since it does not affect the mating surfaces. But it is a sign you are not taking care of the motor.

Let me break it down for ya:

1. Always use a clean filter. Always clean the motor before you disasemble it. Some form of dirt has entered your motor.
2. NEVER EVER keep running the motor hard when it feels like it is losing power. Stop the car and make it rich. Dont blame the clutch or anything else. You WILL kill your motor very fast if you ignore what it is telling you. A Max will turn into an expensive paperweight very quickly within seconds if you ignore it. A rod will go very easily (trust me I know)
3. That baked on stuff is carbon deposits from caster oil (as mentioned above) What this means is that your motor had a lot of residual fuel sitting on the piston when the motor was still hot. After a long race before the motor cools too much drop some afterrun in and buzz it on the starterbox just briefly. If the piston is getting like that so are your bearings.

This is all basic stuff man. Read up a little on motor care and make sure you do it. Nitro motors are cake to tune and maintain if you think clearly and observe what they are doing.
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Old 04-19-2004, 06:12 AM   #8436
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: scratched piston

Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
That scratch should be ok since it does not affect the mating surfaces. But it is a sign you are not taking care of the motor.

Let me break it down for ya:

1. Always use a clean filter. Always clean the motor before you disasemble it. Some form of dirt has entered your motor.
2. NEVER EVER keep running the motor hard when it feels like it is losing power. Stop the car and make it rich. Dont blame the clutch or anything else. You WILL kill your motor very fast if you ignore what it is telling you. A Max will turn into an expensive paperweight very quickly within seconds if you ignore it. A rod will go very easily (trust me I know)
3. That baked on stuff is carbon deposits from caster oil (as mentioned above) What this means is that your motor had a lot of residual fuel sitting on the piston when the motor was still hot. After a long race before the motor cools too much drop some afterrun in and buzz it on the starterbox just briefly. If the piston is getting like that so are your bearings.

This is all basic stuff man. Read up a little on motor care and make sure you do it. Nitro motors are cake to tune and maintain if you think clearly and observe what they are doing.
OUCH... This is Very harsh but also very true, goes down like needles and barbed wire...
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Old 04-19-2004, 09:23 AM   #8437
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Hey Mr Mark... do you know of any other way to contact the guys at rccarinternational, I am still waiting for feedback of my order I placed over a month ago...
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Old 04-19-2004, 09:53 AM   #8438
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Simply drop them a line via the email address: [email protected] - works for me
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Old 04-19-2004, 03:27 PM   #8439
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Default Re: HARD 2503 1-pc inline pipeset - adjustable

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Originally posted by GlennCauley
Another 'product review' ...

I installed a HARD 2503 1-piece inline pipeset on my S710. This pipe is called a 'Shark' pipe, and you can adjust its length. This thing is absolutely gorgeous! A real work of art!

But... and you knew this was coming... it takes a fair bit of work to make it fit in the S710.

The problem is the header... the shape of it makes it a very long pipe... the bend in the header extends back (curves around) much further than other .12 headers (like Serpent's new 2175 conical header). This unfortunately places the bend in the header right on the main layshaft left-end pulley.

To make the pipe fit, I had to do make the following modifications to my S710:
  • grind 1mm off the end of the main layshaft so it does not extend beyond the pulley alum. adaptor
  • grind the outer corner of the pulley alum adaptor on a 45 angle until you cut it back by 2~3mm
  • enlarge the engine mount holes in the chassis to allow the engine to be moved further forward and more to the left
Here is a pic of the installed pipe:

Last edited by GlennCauley; 03-22-2008 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 04-19-2004, 03:28 PM   #8440
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And a pic of the modified pulley adaptor... a 1/8" gap should be enough... just gotta learn not to hit nuthin'


Last edited by GlennCauley; 03-22-2008 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 04-19-2004, 03:30 PM   #8441
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Default Engine

Ok putting back together an will try tonite everything should be ok thanks agian for all your input harsh or not it is an expensive lesson learned and a good one because now i know NOT what to do
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Old 04-19-2004, 03:31 PM   #8442
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Default S710 rollbar

Here is a pic of the rollbar mounts I made for my S710.

Not the prettiest things in the world (compared to the 3Racing mounts), but they are strong. The rollbar (from 3Racing) is held by two grubscrews on each side. The right side mount includes a mounting location for a throttle return spring anchor.

This should last longer than the plastic rollbar, and I can replace the rollbar very easily.

Last edited by GlennCauley; 03-22-2008 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 04-19-2004, 06:07 PM   #8443
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Default Re: front bumper plates ?

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Originally posted by cox049
Any news on when are the new lower bumper plates gonna be released?

I got my parts order in today and the Bumper Plates are the new reinforced type
They look much beefier, specially the upper one, and the weight toll isn't big deal: 2 grams heavier the upper plate and 1 more gram for the lower. Also the lower plate seems like a bit more flexible

Now I have to wait and see what the boards think of them
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Old 04-19-2004, 06:16 PM   #8444
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Default Re: Engine

Quote:
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Ok putting back together an will try tonite everything should be ok thanks agian for all your input harsh or not it is an expensive lesson learned and a good one because now i know NOT what to do
Sorry man, I was just freaking out that you killed a piece of art like a Max Anyways I am much calmer now Follow the above advice and you will be fine.
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Old 04-19-2004, 06:25 PM   #8445
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: scratched piston

Quote:
Originally posted by BaxterC
OUCH... This is Very harsh but also very true, goes down like needles and barbed wire...
Yeah I was having a bad day I had a Rody 5 port which blew a rod. I had it tuned perfectly cutting some great laps around 10 minutes into a final. Got hit in the pipe side in a corner and unknown to me my pressure return line got severed. I continued to drive it and felt the bottom end go soft, then really soft (crankshaft overheat). About 1 minute later goodbye Rody. Engine was totalled only thing salvagable was the carb. I did not listen to what the engine was trying to tell me
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