Serpent 710
#8431
Re: Re: Re: scratched piston
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Here it is
Here it is
I guess if the scratch is not at the top part where compression happens at TDC, then it should not matter. Me thinks anyways...
#8432
Tech Addict
Re: Re: Re: Re: scratched piston
Originally posted by InitialD
It looks deep. What about the piston liner?
I guess if the scratch is not at the top part where compression happens at TDC, then it should not matter. Me thinks anyways...
It looks deep. What about the piston liner?
I guess if the scratch is not at the top part where compression happens at TDC, then it should not matter. Me thinks anyways...
#8433
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: scratched piston
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
If you were to run your finger over the scratch you wouldnt feal it it is more like a rub mark the inner seems to be fine
If you were to run your finger over the scratch you wouldnt feal it it is more like a rub mark the inner seems to be fine
Remember that you mainly want to heat cycle the motor and let the components settle to the running conditions. What this means is run the motor in with the same fuel you intend to run the motor on. Run it very rich for about a minute, then stop the motor and let it cool completely, do this for 2 tanks Rather run it for 4 tanks, stopping the motor after a minute and letting it cool completely. Then run it a little leaner, the same way you did previously. You may want to run the motor in the car on a bench with a fan, letting the motor idle. After you have leaned the motor on the 3rd and 4th tanks, Lean it to slightly rich, then run the 5th and 6th tanks. now the car is nearly ready, take the car and run it at MAX 1/2 throttle, but cycle the speed up and down, but stop every minute and let it coll completely, do this for one tank. Once this is complete, with the motor rich, run it to full throttle and down to 1/4 throttle, cycle this for a minute, try to get at least ten cycles in the minute, stop and let it cool, do this for a tank. You can now set the car up to race tuning and run it as you need.
After you have done this, Replace the glow plug and you should be on the go. but I think that if you may need to check the compression very closely over the next few months, you may be fine with no harm done (really)
#8434
Re: update
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Ok i have just polished piston it has come up VERY smooth but i have taken off some of the yellow coating of the side of the piston (is this bad) still seems to have good compression
Ok i have just polished piston it has come up VERY smooth but i have taken off some of the yellow coating of the side of the piston (is this bad) still seems to have good compression
#8435
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: scratched piston
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
If you were to run your finger over the scratch you wouldnt feal it it is more like a rub mark the inner seems to be fine
If you were to run your finger over the scratch you wouldnt feal it it is more like a rub mark the inner seems to be fine
Let me break it down for ya:
1. Always use a clean filter. Always clean the motor before you disasemble it. Some form of dirt has entered your motor.
2. NEVER EVER keep running the motor hard when it feels like it is losing power. Stop the car and make it rich. Dont blame the clutch or anything else. You WILL kill your motor very fast if you ignore what it is telling you. A Max will turn into an expensive paperweight very quickly within seconds if you ignore it. A rod will go very easily (trust me I know)
3. That baked on stuff is carbon deposits from caster oil (as mentioned above) What this means is that your motor had a lot of residual fuel sitting on the piston when the motor was still hot. After a long race before the motor cools too much drop some afterrun in and buzz it on the starterbox just briefly. If the piston is getting like that so are your bearings.
This is all basic stuff man. Read up a little on motor care and make sure you do it. Nitro motors are cake to tune and maintain if you think clearly and observe what they are doing.
#8436
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: scratched piston
Originally posted by AMGRacer
That scratch should be ok since it does not affect the mating surfaces. But it is a sign you are not taking care of the motor.
Let me break it down for ya:
1. Always use a clean filter. Always clean the motor before you disasemble it. Some form of dirt has entered your motor.
2. NEVER EVER keep running the motor hard when it feels like it is losing power. Stop the car and make it rich. Dont blame the clutch or anything else. You WILL kill your motor very fast if you ignore what it is telling you. A Max will turn into an expensive paperweight very quickly within seconds if you ignore it. A rod will go very easily (trust me I know)
3. That baked on stuff is carbon deposits from caster oil (as mentioned above) What this means is that your motor had a lot of residual fuel sitting on the piston when the motor was still hot. After a long race before the motor cools too much drop some afterrun in and buzz it on the starterbox just briefly. If the piston is getting like that so are your bearings.
This is all basic stuff man. Read up a little on motor care and make sure you do it. Nitro motors are cake to tune and maintain if you think clearly and observe what they are doing.
That scratch should be ok since it does not affect the mating surfaces. But it is a sign you are not taking care of the motor.
Let me break it down for ya:
1. Always use a clean filter. Always clean the motor before you disasemble it. Some form of dirt has entered your motor.
2. NEVER EVER keep running the motor hard when it feels like it is losing power. Stop the car and make it rich. Dont blame the clutch or anything else. You WILL kill your motor very fast if you ignore what it is telling you. A Max will turn into an expensive paperweight very quickly within seconds if you ignore it. A rod will go very easily (trust me I know)
3. That baked on stuff is carbon deposits from caster oil (as mentioned above) What this means is that your motor had a lot of residual fuel sitting on the piston when the motor was still hot. After a long race before the motor cools too much drop some afterrun in and buzz it on the starterbox just briefly. If the piston is getting like that so are your bearings.
This is all basic stuff man. Read up a little on motor care and make sure you do it. Nitro motors are cake to tune and maintain if you think clearly and observe what they are doing.
#8437
Hey Mr Mark... do you know of any other way to contact the guys at rccarinternational, I am still waiting for feedback of my order I placed over a month ago...
#8438
#8439
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Re: HARD 2503 1-pc inline pipeset - adjustable
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Another 'product review' ...
I installed a HARD 2503 1-piece inline pipeset on my S710. This pipe is called a 'Shark' pipe, and you can adjust its length. This thing is absolutely gorgeous! A real work of art!
But... and you knew this was coming... it takes a fair bit of work to make it fit in the S710.
The problem is the header... the shape of it makes it a very long pipe... the bend in the header extends back (curves around) much further than other .12 headers (like Serpent's new 2175 conical header). This unfortunately places the bend in the header right on the main layshaft left-end pulley.
To make the pipe fit, I had to do make the following modifications to my S710:
Another 'product review' ...
I installed a HARD 2503 1-piece inline pipeset on my S710. This pipe is called a 'Shark' pipe, and you can adjust its length. This thing is absolutely gorgeous! A real work of art!
But... and you knew this was coming... it takes a fair bit of work to make it fit in the S710.
The problem is the header... the shape of it makes it a very long pipe... the bend in the header extends back (curves around) much further than other .12 headers (like Serpent's new 2175 conical header). This unfortunately places the bend in the header right on the main layshaft left-end pulley.
To make the pipe fit, I had to do make the following modifications to my S710:
- grind 1mm off the end of the main layshaft so it does not extend beyond the pulley alum. adaptor
- grind the outer corner of the pulley alum adaptor on a 45° angle until you cut it back by 2~3mm
- enlarge the engine mount holes in the chassis to allow the engine to be moved further forward and more to the left
Last edited by GlennCauley; 03-22-2008 at 05:52 PM.
#8441
Tech Addict
Engine
Ok putting back together an will try tonite everything should be ok thanks agian for all your input harsh or not it is an expensive lesson learned and a good one because now i know NOT what to do
#8442
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
S710 rollbar
Here is a pic of the rollbar mounts I made for my S710.
Not the prettiest things in the world (compared to the 3Racing mounts), but they are strong. The rollbar (from 3Racing) is held by two grubscrews on each side. The right side mount includes a mounting location for a throttle return spring anchor.
This should last longer than the plastic rollbar, and I can replace the rollbar very easily.
Not the prettiest things in the world (compared to the 3Racing mounts), but they are strong. The rollbar (from 3Racing) is held by two grubscrews on each side. The right side mount includes a mounting location for a throttle return spring anchor.
This should last longer than the plastic rollbar, and I can replace the rollbar very easily.
Last edited by GlennCauley; 03-22-2008 at 05:52 PM.
#8443
Re: front bumper plates ?
Originally posted by cox049
Any news on when are the new lower bumper plates gonna be released?
Any news on when are the new lower bumper plates gonna be released?
They look much beefier, specially the upper one, and the weight toll isn't big deal: 2 grams heavier the upper plate and 1 more gram for the lower. Also the lower plate seems like a bit more flexible
Now I have to wait and see what the boards think of them
#8444
Re: Engine
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Ok putting back together an will try tonite everything should be ok thanks agian for all your input harsh or not it is an expensive lesson learned and a good one because now i know NOT what to do
Ok putting back together an will try tonite everything should be ok thanks agian for all your input harsh or not it is an expensive lesson learned and a good one because now i know NOT what to do
#8445
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: scratched piston
Originally posted by BaxterC
OUCH... This is Very harsh but also very true, goes down like needles and barbed wire...
OUCH... This is Very harsh but also very true, goes down like needles and barbed wire...