Yes, I think Julius suggested to use the 801219 aluminum pivot balls in the rear of the 705. That's what I'm currently using.

I believe if you use use -4 to -5 camber, your trackwidth exceed beyond 200 mm a lot with the stock upper rear arms. What I do is I modify the rear upper arms to shorten it so that I can still use -3 camber under 200 mm (198 mm actually). The rear pivot ball threading also need not be exposed too much.

Yes, I noticed this too and the FC steering blocks did not crack when the pivot ball pop out !

Hey Punisher, that forum is an Spanish version,, did you speak spanish??,, anyways you have done a great research,, thanks!!

Mine, bleeding slowly through the shaft when I put it in the stand overnight. So I must use the old red ones instead the low-friction purple Oring. But this purple is doing very fine job in the composite body.
Any idea to solve this?

Will the FPS, fit in the 710??,, Just curious, cuz i like the way it handled right now,, BTW, Julius I follow all the instructions to built the FPS diff. that you wrote a little while ago in MYTSN, and it works Great!!

Ciao!!

Nice tricks !! I must try this..

Actually I did the 5deg. camber with optional 8mm wheel hub.
Only works in touring post, track width is almost 200mm
Doesnt work in lola style, coz the wheel is scrubbing the mounting arm.

I wonder if aftermarket rc companies have started to make option parts for the 710? probably see many aluminium options parts over the next couple of months.....

Seen it?
There is an ad of 710 on RC Car Action - Jan 2004 issue.....
Page 241

http://www.myTSN.com/Serpent710

What ever for? A conspiracy to make the car heavy?

Agree with you master D,, I like the way it looks right now

Yup, the optional narrower wheel hex nuts work. I use them on my Impulse PRO to get the rear trackwidth below 200 mm.

The other thing that I do not like about narrower hex wheel adapters is that it makes the thread of the drivecup where the wheel nut goes in to be exposed a lot. Very susceptible to breakage if you happen to hit it directly. Happened once to me.

First time I'm hearing this... What about putting some AE green slime in the o ring?

Perhaps your aluminum shock body where the shock shaft hole is located is loose due to wear... Does this happen to all your aluminum shock bodies?

i remember u posted some pics on ur mod rear upper link using 950 arm. did u cut some materials away & glue them back?

Hey guys,,

Did anybody now about the fuel tank,, remenber that the filter inside that tank where not made from the same quality like the old tank, so we have to use externals fuel filters to solve some engine tunings problems!!,, Any body from Serpent Guys like to coment in this??

Ciao!!

First time, it cames from my friend, coz i didnt use it before, im very satisfied with stock composite.
But when I try it myself for 2 RR alu body with TRY#90 shock oil, yes ! it bleeds trough the shaft in the morning. Then I replace it with the red ones and it was doing fine till now.
And trully I have not try do it again.

Any pic's of the upper rear arm mod ? My turn to be the idjt, how do you mod the arm