Yeah. Shipping cost is a little high but offset by the lower price. Let me know how the bumper top plate works out. I'll probably not put any hop-ups on the 710 and run it in stock form initially. Other thing I got from them is the serpent front ball diff set, which I'll use for smaller parking lot races where one-way will not work.

Ron

Mark,

I have your FAQ & the Serpent blackbook at my work bench right now. You guys are really helpful.

The rear end freed up a bit as I build along, but still not as free as the front. It's not THAT bad, just that I was looking for perfection.

Ron

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Blue Sky

Quote:

Originally posted by Eddie M
I don't use thread lock on them and never have one back out on me yet. Just make sure you have tighten the screw and the ball end on the shock tower. [/QUOTE

Hey Eddie,

It's Ron! Good to see you here. Guess you got yourself a 710 too? I just got mine yesterday and within minutes I started building it.

Ron

Ya. I bought the 710 just after New Year but only have it all build a few days ago.

Good to hear

I can understand that, too. I think there was some mention of the suspension being stiff after building (somewhere in the FAQ) and it was suggested to loosen and tighten the screws in a certain order to ensure that everything is how it should be.

I would first run the car through a few tanks and then check to see if the rear is still stiff, as things tend to loosen up once run-in. If it is still a little stiff, then I'd be looking to loosening it up a bit.

Cheers, Mark.

InitialD,

If I am wanting to purchase a new kit is there any way of knowing I am getting the updated version of it?

The only way of finding this out is to either ask your LHS (if he knows the 710 well) or look inside the box. There is no other way to tell whether there is a newer kit inside the box.

Cheers, Mark.

That blows....if I buy a kit I don't want the same one I had before. I guess I might just have to wait for a 710R just to be safe.

I don't see how else you'd be able to find out if you have an updated kit unless you ask - some dealers may have had 710 on their shelves for a long period, so it isn't that you can say that from a certain date all 710s from all dealers will contain the updated parts - you will still have to ask.
The freshly shipped 710s from the factory must now have the updated bumpers and rear shock towers.

The approach I took was to order spares for my 710 - I need them anyway and these spares are the newer versions. I'll drive with the old ones until the break and then replace them with the new ones.

Cheers, Mark.

You could always email or call Serpent USA and ask them what the batch numbers are for the newer kits.
Then when you go to buy your 710, you could look at the back of the box and verify that it's a newer kit.

Has anyone tried to boil the older bumber parts to make them a little softer?
I know that trick used to work on nylon parts.

Have you measured one? can show pictures? Thanks

Hi Glenn

I assume higher RC will means less rear tracktion. In curiosity, what will be the effect of higher RC that is generated by having rear lower arm on its highest/upper pin holes, and the the upper link, lets say on its mid point. With that condition, RC is higher than if the lower arm were on its lowest pin holes with the upper arm at the same location.

What I`m interested in, what is the benefit for having higher RC but with the lower arm mounted far more toward up from the bottom of chassis. I mean, when the lower arm is now mounted on its highest point, the weight of the rear (CG?) is somehow lower. Does it then generate more tracktion??

Thank you for your time.

Nope. 1 mm shorter than stock.

Yup, I agree with you. There is only Hudy springsteel dogbones for Impact / 835.

Yes.

When you change the lower insert, you need to reset the rear droop screws. When you change the upper insert, you may have to change the rear camber and rear trackwidth again. Just a tip.