Just stick with the car BaxterC work through the teething problems when you first run it and it WILL reward you. Look I'm still smiling now.

Me too

I am going to work and learn all I can in as short a time possible. I am waiting for the mail saing 'SHIPPED' I cannot wait!!!

I am also smiling with you and for you...

I think these smilies were developed just for Serpent 710 drivers.

I cant help it, I am smailing everywhere

This smile is called 'The Smile of Serpent'

Hard to sence the darkside is...
Young Skywalker much pain is in...

I am using the one that came with the kit

Whats the difference between using the 1.7 or 1.8mm springs for the centax?

I finally learned how to install the engine clutch and how many shims to use and all. I didnt want to screw up in the beginning so I just took it to the shop owner to have it done. But the thing that bothers me is that I really wanted to know how to maintenance it and know how many shims to add and why shims are really needed. The manual doesnt say much so luckily I went to the owner and he taught me how to install the clutch and adjust the gaps. Like D said, "you can learn it the hard way like me"....I dont think I need to learn the hard way, just the best way, take it to someone who is experienced. Its easier than you think it is. Now I just need to learn how to rebuild an engine Im sure everyone haave had headaches with rc cars, im just trying my best to avoid them

I would imagine it has to do with the tension in the springs, the 1.8mm being the hard one and the 1.7mm being the softer one.

The difference would be to get the clutch to engage correctly with the 1.8mm you would need to turn the clutch nut out, and with the 1.7mm, for the same engagement, you would need to turn the nut inwards...

Please Guys in the know, if I am wrong, please correct.

Profox, you have the softer springs of the two. The Beauty of the Centax clutch is it's adjustability. All you need to do is turn it out , do this in quarter turn increments, till you have it near perfect, then fine tune it, all you need to to do is slide a small allen wrench into one of the little holes in the clutch bell MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING, then turn the engine clockwise to loosen (I think, memory has gone to the darkside it has) and anti clockwise to tighten...

Well done... My advice would be to get hold of a book from rcstore.com, called Ultimate Nitro Engine Guide. You cannot go wrong with that, follow it step by step...

What life span/ duration do you guys get on the centax thrust bearing?

I cooked one yesterday on my first intensive practice... and it looks like something that should be lubed like every 30 minutes if you don't want to keep on frying them... Please educate me!

Thanks for the tip, ill check it out I just didnt know how much info it has in the book. I was thinking it might have alot of uneccessary stuff in there that we dont need to learn. Where did you buy your book from, is it the one from Rccaraction?

I wish I knew the answer but I did check mine after about 2 hours of running and no problems at all( according to a experienced guy). Take it to someone who is experienced incase you cook it again IMHO if you think you really know the problem and know how to fix it then do it yourself, otherwise if your still not 100% sure then dont fix it yourself. Save some headaches, time and money. Good luck

I got the one from RCCARACTION, it must be the single greatest purchase I made with regards to books for the hobby. It runs you through everything from running-in to maintenance, to rebuilding, to tuned pipes, to tuning. From taking the motor out the box, it takes you through the works from beginning to end. and also explains all the steps well. I must admit, I learnt a lot.

One thing though, if you have a collection of RC Nitro from when it first came out till now, you will have all the information there, the book puts it in one place.

I agree. I am sure you should only need to replace the thrust bearing when you replace all the bearings in the clutch. Have you done the clutch mod?

The length of time they last varies with several key things. They require greasing constantly to keep the dirt out. We actually take them out between every 5min qualifier and regrease.

The other thing that would blow one after a days running is that the clutch is not shimmed correct. Bad set up of the clutch will have you sticking in new thrust bearings every other run. Make sure the external shims are correct to minimise the amount of wobble on the bell.