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Old 08-18-2005, 11:09 AM   #22081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PINCIR
Is it better to put the grubscrews into mod flyweights than leaving the holes free?
Isnt it so that we drill the new holes to lighten them? So why do we put back the grubscrews to make them heavier again?
The initial idea behind the grub screws was to add weight to give the clutch more punch during engagement. So we decided to try out and put 2 pieces of M3x4 grub screws on each flyweight as per Pyramid's picture. Therefore, one additional hole is drilled on the other side so that the grub screws can be fitted in and balanced out left to right.

BUT then as Pyramid mentioned, the clutch is inconsistant. I find that the clutch engagement sticks after a while as if the clutch is in 1st gear. But then with the grub screws, the punch is the best.

Anyway, I'm now back to using without any grub screws on the flyweights and I find the clutch is very consistant and still punchy when the flyweights are cut and mounted in between the pivot pins... Hope this clears the issue.
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Old 08-18-2005, 12:55 PM   #22082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InitialD
The initial idea behind the grub screws was to add weight to give the clutch more punch during engagement. So we decided to try out and put 2 pieces of M3x4 grub screws on each flyweight as per Pyramid's picture. Therefore, one additional hole is drilled on the other side so that the grub screws can be fitted in and balanced out left to right.

BUT then as Pyramid mentioned, the clutch is inconsistant. I find that the clutch engagement sticks after a while as if the clutch is in 1st gear. But then with the grub screws, the punch is the best.

Anyway, I'm now back to using without any grub screws on the flyweights and I find the clutch is very consistant and still punchy when the flyweights are cut and mounted in between the pivot pins... Hope this clears the issue.
Are you now using flyweights (trimmed) with the existing hole, are you drilling another hole to balance, or are you using a clutch shoe cut in 1/3's without any holes?

Sorry.

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Old 08-18-2005, 01:00 PM   #22083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldFinger
Yes, that mods.
Should be okay then...
Just make sure to check it before main.
Especially when you are using aggresive (more than 1.4mm) tension clutch.



Yap, 2 grub screw. At least this mod never gave me any trouble. I can live with earlier shifting.
Dont be confused.. just Listen To Your Heart.. which one is best for you.

Maybe I should pull my clutch apart and check the flyweights. I didn't run that setup very long.

What does running that much tension on the clutch nut do for the clutch? I have never used more than 1mm with the stiff spring.

So many different setups... so little time.

Thanks,
jag
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Old 08-18-2005, 01:03 PM   #22084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InitialD
Yes, I run the same rear roll center as Julius. I found it to be excellent in combination with the front diff.
Do you only use this rear roll center setup with a front diff? If so, what do you use with a front one-way?

Thanks,
jag
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Old 08-18-2005, 01:07 PM   #22085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InitialD
Jag, don't be confused. The extra hole I drilled on the flyweight is to mount the M3x4 grub screw. Nothing more and since I took the grub screws out, I left it that way.

Also, you need to cut the stock flyweights because you need to fit them in BETWEEN the flywheel pivot pins. I guess this makes it lighter but the reason why we cut them up is so that they physically fit in betwen the pivot pins. No more, no less.

However, the one I mentioned about Rick V doing is to lighten the CLUTCH SHOE only by drilling dimples (not through holes into the clutch shoe which would make it pointless) at the back of the CLUTCH SHOE. Please read properly my previous post !
Got it... I assumed holes when you said dimples. My bad.

So is it better to use a clutch shoe so you have no holes?

Thanks,
jag
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Old 08-18-2005, 04:37 PM   #22086
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hi guys,

i have a problem with my snake, and i'm really tired of this problem: "oversteer"

it oversteer almost everytime, i mean on and off power. in the corner entry it starts to oversteer but just a little bit. after the apex, i start to pull trigger gently, but it starts to spinning.
everytime i go to track, i say "it'll be fine today" but it had never be fine. i don't know where is the problem, but i'm sure you experienced guys can solve my problem. here is my setup:

Front:
downstops: -1
ride height (actual): 6mm
camber left right: -1 deg.
width: 200mm
toe: 0.5 toe in
caster: 4mm front
rollcenter: no shims under
upstops: n/a
shocks:
alu. shock body
red springs
trinity 40W
3 hole open
shock position 2nd hole

Rear:
downstops: -7
ride height (actual): 6mm
camber left right: -3 deg.
width: 200mm
toe: 2.5 toe in
UTO/LB
DRS: Level
shocks:
alu. shock body
red springs
trinity 40W
5 hole open
shock position: first hole

standard front and rear anti roll bar
kit tires, 63.5mm front, 63mm rear

front solid axle, rear ball diff. loose as possible (not slip)
21t alu. side pulley
body mazda 6
track conditions: asphalt, technical, low grip, a little bumpy

i'm very gentle on throttle. no binding on suspension parts, shocks works properly, no tweak on chassis, even if i hit the brakes hard, it stops perfect. when i pull the trigger hard, it goes perfect, i set it up with hudy setup board. tires settled and coned perfectly. i really don't know what i've gotta do, but i'm really tired of that, i don't want a spin anymore. i miss my 705 but it's gone.

so, what you guys advice to me, thanks

Last edited by snake_eye; 08-18-2005 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 08-18-2005, 06:37 PM   #22087
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Part of the problem would be the 21T pulley with even tyres, I'm sure you need the fronts to be about 3mm smaller in diameter to run that pulley.
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Old 08-18-2005, 10:43 PM   #22088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Maybe I should pull my clutch apart and check the flyweights. I didn't run that setup very long.

What does running that much tension on the clutch nut do for the clutch? I have never used more than 1mm with the stiff spring.

So many different setups... so little time.

Thanks,
jag
If the layout consist some slow corner and you can apply full throttle right after apex, you will find easier to catch up when using heavier clutch setup.

So many different setups?? I think that is the beauty of this car
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Old 08-19-2005, 01:50 AM   #22089
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[QUOTE=GoldFinger]the 2 weight is broke in 2 pieces, the 3rd wieght pin hole is oval alreadyQUOTE]

Dude.. enlarge the hole that goes over the pin for more free play between flyweight`s hole and its pin. Otherwise what is the point Serpent design it (over the pin) on the first place
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Old 08-19-2005, 02:00 AM   #22090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snake_eye
hi guys,

i have a problem with my snake, and i'm really tired of this problem: "oversteer"
Front:
rollcenter: no shims under
Rear:
UTO/LB

kit tires, 63.5mm front, 63mm rear
First, if the kit tires is the old ellegy rim, try to get the new one. As for diamenter, Greg M has answer you on that.

Second, on rear RC, change LB to UB? (lower pin on up most position I meant). And change upper arms to 9 o`clock (assuming rear upper L arm). I need D on this slang roll center thing.

If rear still not enough traction, put shims under front roll center (more shims = less traction = more positive camber change on outside tires when turning).
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Old 08-19-2005, 02:18 AM   #22091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fulcrum2
I can seet that you have grub screws installed in the flyweight´s. Is this an improvement over the original mod?
Please see D replies, he has mentioned the benefits of having screws.. enjoy racing!
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Old 08-19-2005, 02:21 AM   #22092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InitialD
I don't know if there ever was a new part number for this. They just made a running change and added them (together with the older 1.0mm piston holes) in the newer 710 kits
As far as I could remember, I think there is still no 1.2mm shock piston hole on the newest batch (with all orange stuff including the alu wheel hex but still not like optional clamp type hex which is a great addition).
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Old 08-19-2005, 03:58 AM   #22093
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[QUOTE=Pyramid]
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldFinger
the 2 weight is broke in 2 pieces, the 3rd wieght pin hole is oval alreadyQUOTE]

Dude.. enlarge the hole that goes over the pin for more free play between flyweight`s hole and its pin. Otherwise what is the point Serpent design it (over the pin) on the first place
There is "automatic enlargement" already happen on my flyweights
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Old 08-19-2005, 05:56 PM   #22094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg M
Part of the problem would be the 21T pulley with even tyres, I'm sure you need the fronts to be about 3mm smaller in diameter to run that pulley.
dear greg, i was running with slightly bigger front tires generally, and i think 21t pulley and bigger front tires gives more overdrive, and i think more overdrive gives more rear grip, am i wrong?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyramid
First, if the kit tires is the old ellegy rim, try to get the new one. As for diamenter, Greg M has answer you on that.

Second, on rear RC, change LB to UB? (lower pin on up most position I meant). And change upper arms to 9 o`clock (assuming rear upper L arm). I need D on this slang roll center thing.

If rear still not enough traction, put shims under front roll center (more shims = less traction = more positive camber change on outside tires when turning).
dear pyramid, my kit is newest version which has orange motor mounts etc.. so my tires i used is new version i think.

second, rear upper arms on 1 o'clock, lower arms is on bottom position.

if i put shims under front roll center, this means lowering the roll center right? and if i do that i guess front grip increasing because of lower roll center. and it reduces rear grip?


i guess i have some wrong ideas about setup. please correct me if i'm wrong. by the way, does anybody has 21t pulley and solid diff setup which makes car slightly understeer?

thanks
Eric
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Old 08-19-2005, 06:45 PM   #22095
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I'm no expert, I have a 21T pulley still in the bag and never tried it. It would give more overdrive, something I've never played with, but would assume the car would be more front wheel driven and would cause understeer. Hopefully someone can confirm this, but I'm sure most guys using the 21T pulley will run the fronts 3mm smaller.

If you are running a spool in front, you'd reduce understeer by putting in a diff. Check out the setup book, it give good tips on what to change and how depending on your problem.
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