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Old 04-21-2004, 09:31 AM   #8566
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Quote:
Originally posted by BaxterC
As far as I remember, thay are the same as the 710, but I dont know for sure.
The 808220 dogbones are the same length as the stock S710 dogbones.
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Old 04-21-2004, 10:03 AM   #8567
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Quote:
Originally posted by GlennCauley
The 808220 dogbones are the same length as the stock S710 dogbones.
Thanks Glenn... Just a matter of interest, If one had to use a higher roll center on a certain track, what effect would you most likely see, and the same for a low roll center?
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Old 04-21-2004, 10:24 AM   #8568
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This is one popular thread, ~8600 replies, and ~176070 Views... WOW. Serpent is populay, sure is better than HPI and Mugen...
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Old 04-21-2004, 10:52 AM   #8569
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Thanks all for your help on the 808220 dogbones. I'll go and exchange for a proper spring steel version of them.

I've got a questions for shock absorber mounting. In my Impulse Pro, as well as now in the 710 they all use threaded pivot balls and screws to mount the shocks to the chassis/shock tower. I'm assuming you'll need to use thread-lock to keep the pivot ball in place? What I'm wondering is how secure this is, especially when you're at the track and need to change shock position and re-applying thread-lock? Would you need to wait for the thread lock to cure for it to work properly? For my Impulse Pro I've convert to double shoulder pivot balls so I can put a screw right through the shock and shock tower and secure with a self locking nut. What is your experience? Thanks.

Ron
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Old 04-21-2004, 11:37 AM   #8570
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glen,

I understand. whatever change I make to one end of one pin I have to make to the other end, and then move to the other side and make sure i have mirror images.

i other words, I have to change 4 inserts if I want to change my roll center at the higher pins
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Old 04-21-2004, 12:59 PM   #8571
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Quote:
Originally posted by BaxterC
Thanks Glenn... Just a matter of interest, If one had to use a higher roll center on a certain track, what effect would you most likely see, and the same for a low roll center?
Hi BaxterC,

Roll-center is probably one of the most under-utilized adjustments on a car, but one of the most powerful. Roll-centers have an immediate effect on a carís handling, whereas anti-roll bars, shocks and springs require the car to roll before they produce an effect.

It is really great that Serpent realized this and made it very easy to adjust roll-center on the S710.

Here is some information about the effect of roll-center...

Front roll-center
Front roll center has most effect on on-throttle steering during mid-corner and corner exit.

Lowered front roll-center
* More on-throttle steering
* Car is less responsive
* Better on smooth, high grip tracks with long fast corners

Raised front roll-center
* Less on-throttle steering
* Car is more responsive
* Use in high grip conditions to avoid traction rolling
* Use on tracks with quick direction changes (chicanes)


Rear Roll-Center
Rear roll center affects on- and off-throttle situations in all cornering stages (entry, mid, exit)

Lowered rear roll-center
* More on-throttle grip
* Less grip under braking
* Use to avoid traction rolling at corner entry (increases rear grip)
* Use under low traction conditions
* Increases traction, reduces rear tire wear

Raised rear roll-center
* Less on-throttle steering
* Car is more responsive
* Use in high grip conditions to avoid traction rolling
* Use on tracks with quick direction changes (chicanes)
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:00 PM   #8572
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blue Sky
.... I'm assuming you'll need to use thread-lock to keep the pivot ball in place? What I'm wondering is how secure this is, especially when you're at the track and need to change shock position and re-applying thread-lock? ....
Hi Ron,

What I find, is that after I've applied thread lock, a rubbery/sticky residue is left on the screw thread even after it is unscrewed. When I re-tighten the screw, this residue makes sure that the screw remains in palce and doesn't become loose.
Of course this only works a certain number of times and it is best to re-apply the thread lock often.
Also when testing, I usually have enough time to allow the thread lock to cure before going back onto the track (normally only takes a couple of minutes). Its just a case of remembering to do this as one of the first changes, to allow the glue time to cure.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:06 PM   #8573
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blue Sky
Thanks all for your help on the 808220 dogbones. I'll go and exchange for a proper spring steel version of them.

I've got a questions for shock absorber mounting. In my Impulse Pro, as well as now in the 710 they all use threaded pivot balls and screws to mount the shocks to the chassis/shock tower. I'm assuming you'll need to use thread-lock to keep the pivot ball in place? What I'm wondering is how secure this is, especially when you're at the track and need to change shock position and re-applying thread-lock? Would you need to wait for the thread lock to cure for it to work properly? For my Impulse Pro I've convert to double shoulder pivot balls so I can put a screw right through the shock and shock tower and secure with a self locking nut. What is your experience? Thanks.

Ron

I don't use thread lock on them and never have one back out on me yet. Just make sure you have tighten the screw and the ball end on the shock tower.
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:15 PM   #8574
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Quote:
Originally posted by Eddie M
I don't use thread lock on them and never have one back out on me yet. Just make sure you have tighten the screw and the ball end on the shock tower.
I have to say in my experience, they will come out. I have lost a couple of screws by not applying thread lock. For saftey's sake, it is best to thread lock all metal-to-metal screw interfaces.
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:21 PM   #8575
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Hi Ron,

What I find, is that after I've applied thread lock, a rubbery/sticky residue is left on the screw thread even after it is unscrewed. When I re-tighten the screw, this residue makes sure that the screw remains in palce and doesn't become loose.
Of course this only works a certain number of times and it is best to re-apply the thread lock often.
Also when testing, I usually have enough time to allow the thread lock to cure before going back onto the track (normally only takes a couple of minutes). Its just a case of remembering to do this as one of the first changes, to allow the glue time to cure.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Mark.
Thanks for your reply Mark! I'll just ahead and use the stock hardware to continue building the 710.

Just want let you know that I just received some goodies from the postman. The stuff are from RC Mushroom. It took all 7 days from the time I placed order online till I got it in my hand. Faster than I expected. Anyway, other than some spare parts for the 710, I got some 3Racing Ti mid & main shafts, Ti pivot balls, and an aluminum radio tray center mount. Hopefully the aluminum mount threaded holes will not strip as easily as Glenn's handle mount.

Maybe just one more build question. Do you (or you guys) find the rear arms etc. are not as free as the front arms when you were building the car? Any hints? Thanks.

Ron
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:22 PM   #8576
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
I have to say in my experience, they will come out. I have lost a couple of screws by not applying thread lock. For saftey's sake, it is best to thread lock all metal-to-metal screw interfaces.
use thread lock if that make you feel more comfortable
I have race Serpent car for over 5 years now and I still not using thread lock on shock ballend. I guess I am just luck
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:23 PM   #8577
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Eddie M
I don't use thread lock on them and never have one back out on me yet. Just make sure you have tighten the screw and the ball end on the shock tower. [/QUOTE

Hey Eddie,

It's Ron! Good to see you here. Guess you got yourself a 710 too? I just got mine yesterday and within minutes I started building it.

Ron
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:26 PM   #8578
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blue Sky
Maybe just one more build question. Do you (or you guys) find the rear arms etc. are not as free as the front arms when you were building the car? Any hints? Thanks.

Ron
Hi again

What you'll probably find is that once you put more of the car together, the rear arms will loosen up. There is a temptation with the 710 to get the dremel out and start loosening parts up, but this would be a mistake in this case.
Only when the 710 is fully built are all the elements in place to finalise the structural integrity.
Build the rest of you car and then see if the arms are still a little stiff

If you haven't already done so, Ron, take a look at the 710 FAQ just below here in my signature. Your question as well as many others are delt with in the FAQ.

Happy building, Mark.
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:27 PM   #8579
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Ron,

I guess you and I are shopping at the same place I only bought the graphit bumper top place and some glown plugs
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:28 PM   #8580
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Quote:
Originally posted by Eddie M
use thread lock if that make you feel more comfortable
I have race Serpent car for over 5 years now and I still not using thread lock on shock ballend. I guess I am just luck
Quite probably Me, I'm the venrible Murphy, i.e. from Murphy's law - what can go wrong will go wrong
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