All I can say is that after a couple of years running on a very tight track, My setup is basically "exactly" what IntialD was saying.

I put close to 2.5 to 3 Deg of rear toe which in someways allows the car to turn in quicker in both directions do to the amount of corners involved on the track.

Secondly, I also place the caster as stated by "D" for what appears to be a quicker response.

Third, I'm sure someone here has posted or seen the trick with removing approimately 3mm off the front end for a shorter wheelbase.

Lastly, I also do not run sway bars front or rear and the car handles like a gem , letting the shocks do all the work.

Right or wrong in theory it works very well at our track.

When we go to the bigger tracks in California, and Vegas it's a whole different story and the Car is completely different.

Just my two cents, and yes thats probably all it's worth LOL !!!

u can oso try using smaller rear wheeladapters
http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=2910

Hey,

The new RC mag RC Driver has a full page 710 ad in their January 2004 issue, P 63. All orange and fancy. Nice ad, and this new mag looks really promising. Lot's of useful articles, not like the "other" mag beginning with RC, ending with CA... We truly live in the best of times.

Too much having a good driving till forget how to built...

Man... you kept me thingking for soo long...

Yes correct. I run that too on my Impulse PRO. If you look at the 705 thread, I had a pic of the wheels with these narrow wheel hex adaptors.

But like what Goldfinger mentioned, the wheels will rub on the floating rear mount adaptor which I also use on my TC setup. I believe when I use a 2 degree offset wheel in the rear, somehow it clears up (touches only little when cornering). I need to use the 8 mm adaptors, 2 degree offset wheels with -4 camber and the trackwidth will still be under 200 mm. That's what I use on my Impulse PRO which I have not modified the rear upper arms.

On my 705 with the modded upper rear arms, I use the stock 11 mm aluminum wheel hex adaptor, 0 offset wheels, -4 camber and still under 200 mm (198 mm exactly).

Yup, somebody posted that on the 705 thread way before the 710 was officially announced.

Pics attached below are more clear. Taken from the rcmodel website.

MORE STEERING
Sometimes if the car feels good and well balanced in and out of the corners try narrowing the front end to 196 or 194. it will gain lots of steering. This is a trick Lou Pryzbala tought me on the impact. It works when all else fails. you will be amazed what a few MM narrower on the front does for steering and it won't upset the chassis like you would think.

I remember watching Brian Berry narrowing the arms on his Veteq with a dremel where the pivot balls thread in for the same reason.

Thank a lot for sharing with me (us) serpentracer1.
I really appreciate your valuable input.

About smaller rear toe-in, i do agree with you.
This is 1st lesson from mistake Ive learned . Before... I thought that more toe in(rear) will stabilised the car when out corner but result was worse. Then try the 1.5 deg. it was like "bang" the rear wheel is able to hold up the line.

As for more caster will help car turns better in sharp corners, I think Im experiencing the same way with "D". Less caster is more required....

Agree with you on that one Dennis ! I think one of the single most important setting that made a difference on the 705 is the trackwidth. I try to run as narrow as I can now and the car handles like a dream.

You never tell me this before ...

Oops! I am using the pivot balls for the standard steering blocks. I don't think that makes a difference to the track width as the steering blocks are ALMOST touching the upper and lower arms already.
I f*cked my stock wheels after the first 3 minutes, and managed to f*cked up the mugen fast disk wheels in the next 5 minutes.
I still have a set of brand new jaco wheels, but I am afraid to use them as I might mess it up again in 8 minutes! hahahah
I think from now on, I'll stick with one brand and one type of wheels, so if I mess a front left, I won't have to change the PAIR! =)

Hahahah I think you should consult Mark about better picture taking! heheheh

Depends on your track and what you want to stabilise your car. On power or off power.

From the way I read serpentracer1's setting, he needed more on power steering on the track he runs as obviously from his front overdrive, stiffer rear sway bar and less rear to in.

More rear toe-in will not give you on power steering. Off power steering and braking would be better with more rear toe-in.

For what reason did I cut up and show the modded upper rear arms?

That's what it is for ! To make the rear narrower.

I checked with the local distributor and retailers here, all told me 359USD. Which is the same as 705... what a deal! If only the parts can be cheaper... especially N00B like me...