R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-04-2004, 09:00 AM   #2566
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 817
Default

Quote:
hey Chavo....Are you saying its easier to get to the two speed shaft and front mid shaft on the 710 than the R40?...

Gee, let me think.....YES!
NitroHead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2004, 09:11 AM   #2567
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 817
Default

Harry, go to mytsn.com and look at the i-manual for the 710. The diffs are held in the car with bearing caps.
NitroHead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2004, 09:12 AM   #2568
Tech Elite
 
fastharry™'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Mahwah, NJ.. USA!! ..... Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,846
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to fastharry™
Default

did you buy your car from RON?..

Bring that thing by and let me look at it..
__________________
www.fastharry.com---search "fastharry" on facebook
See Fastharry in Super Nitro racing at the HPI CHALLENGE...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzo-cBEnE0c
fastharry™ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2004, 09:15 AM   #2569
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 817
Default

No I did not buy it from Ron, I bought it from Bruckner. They are getting another shipment this week and I'm buying another one!
NitroHead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2004, 09:26 AM   #2570
Tech Elite
 
fastharry™'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Mahwah, NJ.. USA!! ..... Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,846
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to fastharry™
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by NitroHead
Harry, go to mytsn.com and look at the i-manual for the 710. The diffs are held in the car with bearing caps.
but how about the front mid shaft and 2 speed assembly(shaft and all)...
__________________
www.fastharry.com---search "fastharry" on facebook
See Fastharry in Super Nitro racing at the HPI CHALLENGE...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzo-cBEnE0c
fastharry™ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2004, 09:51 AM   #2571
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Baguio
Posts: 277
Default

Hey guys, finished building the front assembly and have some concerns. Pardon me if this has already been answered earlier.
After installing the dogbones and adjusting it with the suggested length of the hub carrier/arms (step 1.11), I inspected how much throw left/right it can go, and noticed that there is a possibility for the dogbone to pop-out if you really set an aggressive end point (looking forward with servos are installed). How do you guys set this ? I was thinking of putting a spacer in the one way hub to push a dogbone some in the carrier, that would somehow eliminate the possibility of it to pop-out but the throw from left/right would somehow be lessened. Appreciate the help on this.
nad138 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2004, 10:06 AM   #2572
Tech Master
 
Motorman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,911
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Barry Baker uses Centax on his NTC3? I thought none of the AE factory drivers use Centax on their cars...
never believe everything you read, remember there is no fuel tank problem you infidel.

Quote:
Most unlikely the snake boys would have the new shoes in their toolbox.
Wanna wager some green. They'll have ball diffs available to them too you wait and see. They bring everything but the kitchen sink to the Fort. Usually they are pretty good about making them available to everyone thats there, at least thats been the impression I had the last time I was there.


Quote:
Bill, I think you got it the other way around concerning the high and low bite thingy. The black gives better bite and it's softer material (higher wear) and good for high bite tracks.
Actually D I think your confusing the black shoe with the XP graphite shoe. The black shoe is fairly hard and slips quite a bit and wears out decent. The XP is more gray colored and has better bite than the black, the yellow is abrasive and harder it bites similar to a red Rulon shoe however I think the Rulon shoe is the most abrasive and bites the hardest.

I run the Red shoe modified with a soft spring on my cars, as the new engines have excellent low speed torque. If your clutch engages to high you get smoked off the corner (sounds impressive but the car ain't goin nowhere) and then you go up in smoke in tire spin. I set up the clutch to engage as low as possible without bogging the engine, If its bogging don't be afraid to gear first down and step the two speed more teeth. we fought this bad on Impacts untill we went to 15 on first. I even latched onto some old Excel centax bells that are one piece and have 14 and 13 on first for my impact.
__________________
Just here to give the world grief.

Last edited by Motorman; 01-04-2004 at 10:31 AM.
Motorman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2004, 10:07 AM   #2573
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 817
Default

Quote:
but how about the front mid shaft and 2 speed assembly(shaft and all)...
The front and rear shaft's are like my 1.8 Mugen. Take a close look at it on line, when I did I liked it... I got the car and I LOVE IT!
NitroHead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2004, 10:32 AM   #2574
Tech Regular
 
JABRONI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: BROKE BACK WYOMING
Posts: 333
Default Centax Clutch

Mike Myers was interested in Art Carbonell's thought on the car??

From the Starting Grid Forum: Art Carbonell testing the clutch set up that many have reported as being very unresponsive.

ART:The one thing I noticed that I didn’t really care for was thethrottle response. I’m not sure what the problem is exactly. I want to try it some more. I played with the clutch spring a little bit. It didn’t seem to help that much. You had to pull the trigger quite a bit before the car actually “went”. This will be something for my next test session, trying to figure out what it is. I heard of some people having a similar problem. This is with the standard gear ratio.

As to the clutch, Art got it figured out. Apparently the spring was
wrong. After checking everything out, Art installed what he felt was the correct spring, and that cured the problem. Here's a photo of the two springs:

JABRONI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2004, 10:33 AM   #2575
Tech Fanatic
 
Julius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Amsterdam Netherlands
Posts: 977
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by nad138
Hey guys, finished building the front assembly and have some concerns. Pardon me if this has already been answered earlier.
After installing the dogbones and adjusting it with the suggested length of the hub carrier/arms (step 1.11), I inspected how much throw left/right it can go, and noticed that there is a possibility for the dogbone to pop-out if you really set an aggressive end point (looking forward with servos are installed). How do you guys set this ? I was thinking of putting a spacer in the one way hub to push a dogbone some in the carrier, that would somehow eliminate the possibility of it to pop-out but the throw from left/right would somehow be lessened. Appreciate the help on this.
Don't worry. Finish the car and you'll see the steering throw is limited by the servo saver to a point where the dogbones will stay put.
Julius is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2004, 10:36 AM   #2576
Tech Regular
 
JABRONI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: BROKE BACK WYOMING
Posts: 333
Default Centax Clutch

No part #'s are given or tension ratings, however,The spring at the left (gold color) is the one that didn't perform the way Art felt it should. The spring at the right (gray color) is the one that worked the way Art wanted it to.

Mine appears ok at this time, make sure it turns freely in the collar and is close to flush with the end of your shaft.

Anyone know if different rated springs are available to try.

I just hope Delta comes out with the Red Clutch shoe for the centax three, they seem to work great in most situations.
JABRONI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2004, 10:58 AM   #2577
Tech Elite
 
crashed_1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: i love my job
Posts: 4,985
Exclamation Clutch engagement

I wonder if any of you have this problem on your 710s...the Centax seem to engage quite inconsistently...ie: it engages beautifully but then slips every alternate lap or so...

Any idea when the pins for the solid axle front will be released?
crashed_1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2004, 11:46 AM   #2578
Tech Master
 
Motorman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,911
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Brad was suppose to call dave at delta already, tell him to get on the stick.

I believe that gray spring is what came on some of the impacts, a soft mugen spring is close to it. Most centax springs are the same diameter and close in length. So you can look around at what is available off the shelf from other makers.

also as I said before scuff the shoe and bell with scotchbrite (the green stuff like you use to clean dishes with works ok if you cant find real scotchbrite) after you run it in, The black coating and any residual oil will glaze the shoe. once you scuff it you won't have to do it again.

Crashed you should be able to use standard shaft drive pins like drive the pulleys, I'm curious how you are suppose to hold them in? do you install them then tape around the axle to retain them??

Julius hows that suppose to be done?
__________________
Just here to give the world grief.

Last edited by Motorman; 01-04-2004 at 11:56 AM.
Motorman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2004, 01:00 PM   #2579
B
Tech Master
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: NorCal
Posts: 1,159
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
I have also has the MTX3 and now the Serpent 710, the Mugen you has to shim all the slop out of the arms out of the box to get rid off the slop, with the 710 you had to sand the arms to get them to fit. The Mugen did have a better more detailed manual, but i agree with clmbia45 Mugen never gave you setup advice on what everything did on the car like Serpent.


SN
Thanks for the response.
When you say that you have to sand the parts, does it mean that the parts wont fit without sanding? Or do they just bind?
B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2004, 01:13 PM   #2580
Tech Fanatic
 
Julius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Amsterdam Netherlands
Posts: 977
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
They bring everything but the kitchen sink to the Fort.
That's because the food's good.... No need for the kitchen stuff
Julius is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Serpent 705 J_Longbrake Nitro On-Road 4252 02-23-2015 12:34 AM
WTB: NIB Serpent 710 aN4rK1 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 06-16-2006 09:23 PM
Serpent 835 JFCJ R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 02-20-2005 09:29 PM
Trade in Your Old Serpent 710 Parts for New Serpent 710 Parts fast_it710 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 09-17-2004 12:27 AM
Serpent Impulse w/MT-12 and Serpent Starter box - cheap Solara R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 03-07-2003 03:01 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:08 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net