I think you are referring to the locking pins of the front one way? Thare is an alu collar that slides over the pins and held in place by an o-ring.

Bind

Julius, we have to define terms. The only purpose of the original calculation, is to determine the shim requirement; the "B" measurement IS fixed, as there are no shims present during the initial measurement process. "B" is modified only by the addition of shims between the thrust bearing carrier and the thrust bearing. If you choose to re-measure after adding a shim, the "B" is no longer "B". It becomes, for example, "BS" (for "B" with a shim). Does this matter? It matters; if "A" is less than 1.7 mm you cannot obtain the clutch clearance of 0.7mm.

Shim = A - B - 0.7
IN the initial measurement
Shim = 0
So,
0 = A - B - 0.7
transposing
B + 0.7 = A
"B" is fixed at 1 mm, so
1 + 0.7 = A
A = 1.7 mm
ANY VALUE OF "A" LESS THAN 1.7 MM RESULTS IN A NEGATIVE NUMBER FOR SHIM REQUIREMENT. FOR EXAMPLE
Shim = A - B - 0.7
Let A' = 1.6
let A = A'
B = 1
Then
1.6 -1 -0.7 = Shim
transposing
Shim = - 0.1 mm

I believe this text is as I remember it from the original Centax clutch instruction (although memory grows dim).

My old Vetec spring looks the same as the kit one. The Mugen mtx3 spring is also 1.8 mm diameter, and the same width but is 10 mm long instead of 9 mm.

Tried Fast Harrys recommended HPI 74100 pinion gear wrench-works better than my fingers! Less than $8

Guys Im new to this thread and was wondering if you can get the 710 with engine and exhaust in one and how much, and what engine and pipe would come with it and are they any good?

Looks like the Kyosho spring.

I did not need to sand or grind anything when building the 710 unlike when it was necessary for the 705. Only the shock pistons need to be smoothen to take out small plastic flashes. That's all.

You are right... In all my Centax clutch assemblies on different engines and other car makes, I have never needed to put negative shims !

But seriously, this only happens if you put a lot of shims at step 8.1. More than the recommended 0.5 mm. Somehow with the recommeded 0.5 mm shim, things always work out fine that you always need to add shim in the front of the thrust bearing as in step 8.6. My 2 cents.

On the 705, I needed to put O rings or fuel tubings as spacers in the front between the dogbone and the one way drive cup to keep the dogbones from falling. On the 710, I have not seen the need to do that... yet !

I don't know how you're measuring the length of the hub carrier/arms but make sure you set your front trackwidth to 200 mm or below at the end of the day. That should keep the dogbones in place.

I think the grey ones were the older ones from the Centax I. The gold ones that come with Centax II (and III) are harder and they are 1.8 mm in diameter if I'm not mistaken. For me, the harder the spring, the better the punch !

Ah, I forgot to measure the length of the pins... I know that the diameter of the pins should be 2.5 mm. I had one of those pins around from previous parts of the Impulse cars and it fitted tight and fine. The length was just right.

Dennis, instead of waiting for the aluminum collar, what people here are doing is to use the thick silicone coupler meant to join the exhaust pipe and manifold ! I think you should have some around do ya? That would do the trick and cheap too !

I use the Mugen hard silver spring on my 705 Centax II clutch. Although like you say their springs are like 10 mm long, it'll fit fine in the Serpent Centax clutch.

Thanks for the reminder Dennis ! I almost forgot that I should not believe what I read...

Well, when I said that "they" would not have the yellow shoes, I meant the "ordinary" Serpent drivers. Not the real ones !

Ummm Dennis, I hate to prove somebody wrong but if you look at the parts list, you will see that the included stock clutch shoe 802508 is the Centax-3 clutch shoe XP ! Unless of course Serpent screwed up with the part number again... I believe the other black one you're referring to has already been made obselete by Serpent if I'm not wrong...

Thanks for the tip Dennis. For me, I think I'm addressing the issue the other way around. I like to use harder springs or set it hard and then move the end float as close as possible. I think this gives me very good punch of the bat !