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Old 01-04-2004, 06:15 PM   #2596
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Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
Tried Fast Harrys recommended HPI 74100 pinion gear wrench-works better than my fingers! Less than $8
Cool. Does it grip the pinions only or does it grip the clutchbell as well?

I think the Mugen one grips both the pinions as well as the clutchbell...
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Old 01-04-2004, 06:22 PM   #2597
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way too much time and too darn cold to race.. very very obviouse...

who would want a ball diff in front at the ft?

just had to ask..
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Old 01-04-2004, 06:37 PM   #2598
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Originally posted by ammdrew
who would want a ball diff in front at the ft?

just had to ask..
Yup, you got Dennis on that one. I don't think anybody runs diffs in the front at Winternats !

Say will anybody plan to run the solid axle in the rear at the Nats?
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Old 01-04-2004, 06:46 PM   #2599
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Wink LOL

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD

quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
never believe everything you read, remember there is no fuel tank problem you infidel


Thanks for the reminder Dennis ! I almost forgot that I should not believe what I read...


quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
Wanna wager some green. They'll have ball diffs available to them too you wait and see. They bring everything but the kitchen sink to the Fort. Usually they are pretty good about making them available to everyone thats there, at least thats been the impression I had the last time I was there.


Well, when I said that "they" would not have the yellow shoes, I meant the "ordinary" Serpent drivers. Not the real ones !

quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
Actually D I think your confusing the black shoe with the XP graphite shoe. The black shoe is fairly hard and slips quite a bit and wears out decent. The XP is more gray colored and has better bite than the black, the yellow is abrasive and harder it bites similar to a red Rulon shoe however I think the Rulon shoe is the most abrasive and bites the hardest.



Ummm Dennis, I hate to prove somebody wrong but if you look at the parts list, you will see that the included stock clutch shoe 802508 is the Centax-3 clutch shoe XP ! Unless of course Serpent screwed up with the part number again... I believe the other black one you're referring to has already been made obselete by Serpent if I'm not wrong...


quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
I run the Red shoe modified with a soft spring on my cars, as the new engines have excellent low speed torque. If your clutch engages to high you get smoked off the corner (sounds impressive but the car ain't goin nowhere) and then you go up in smoke in tire spin. I set up the clutch to engage as low as possible without bogging the engine, If its bogging don't be afraid to gear first down and step the two speed more teeth. we fought this bad on Impacts untill we went to 15 on first. I even latched onto some old Excel centax bells that are one piece and have 14 and 13 on first for my impact.


Thanks for the tip Dennis. For me, I think I'm addressing the issue the other way around. I like to use harder springs or set it hard and then move the end float as close as possible. I think this gives me very good punch of the bat !
Don't question the Serpent Guru!!!
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Old 01-04-2004, 06:54 PM   #2600
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Originally posted by PUNISHER
Don't question the Serpent Guru!!!
Naah, if anything, I have my utmost respects for the Engine Guru !
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Old 01-04-2004, 07:21 PM   #2601
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Quote:
Originally posted by nad138
Hey guys, finished building the front assembly and have some concerns. Pardon me if this has already been answered earlier.
After installing the dogbones and adjusting it with the suggested length of the hub carrier/arms (step 1.11), I inspected how much throw left/right it can go, and noticed that there is a possibility for the dogbone to pop-out if you really set an aggressive end point (looking forward with servos are installed). How do you guys set this ? I was thinking of putting a spacer in the one way hub to push a dogbone some in the carrier, that would somehow eliminate the possibility of it to pop-out but the throw from left/right would somehow be lessened. Appreciate the help on this.
I did just that ... placed a slice of silicone tubing in the one-way hub. You'll have to estimate the thickness, depending on setting, so that you get max left/right throw.
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Old 01-04-2004, 07:44 PM   #2602
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Quote:
who would want a ball diff in front at the ft?
Ammdrew you never know. You know better than to ask that! You know exactly what I'm talking about.
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Old 01-04-2004, 07:46 PM   #2603
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Dennis, instead of waiting for the aluminum collar,
D no need to wait, I havent bought a 710 yet. But 2 of my drivers have. Gives me a reason to start payin attention.

Quote:
Ummm Dennis, I hate to prove somebody wrong but if you look at the parts list, you will see that the included stock clutch shoe 802508 is the Centax-3 clutch shoe XP !
D Been wrong before, will be wrong again. Haven't personally eyeballed the shoe yet. Just trying to be helpful. why I don't know. Maybe because Jack is a friend of mine, Certainly dosent mean its the only way to skin a cat.

Quote:
Don't question the Serpent Guru!!!
Punisher,

Grow up you wiener
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Last edited by Motorman; 01-04-2004 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 01-04-2004, 08:28 PM   #2604
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Cool. Does it grip the pinions only or does it grip the clutchbell as well?

I think the Mugen one grips both the pinions as well as the clutchbell...
Grips both: 1mm & 0.8
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Old 01-04-2004, 09:02 PM   #2605
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Originally posted by Motorman
One last note is to remove the bell now that you have it broken in and scuff it with scotchbrite also the face of the disc.(remove the glaze) I helped barry baker do this to his centax one weekend and it cured all his ills.
This is what I do before each heat.
Im not so sure about this but by doing that, the clutch is more consistant. I think the shoe is slipping to much, no matter how much the end float and spring tightness still make no significant change in clutch engagement.
Especially with MAX (5port), this is happen in my last LOLA shell race.
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Old 01-04-2004, 09:11 PM   #2606
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Last edited by InitialD; 01-04-2004 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 01-04-2004, 09:11 PM   #2607
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Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
Grips both: 1mm & 0.8
Thanks Jack. But does it grip the clutchbell while it's gripping the pinions too? Like the B0513 Mugen tool?
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Old 01-04-2004, 09:24 PM   #2608
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
I think the shoe is slipping to much, no matter how much the end float and spring tightness still make no significant change in clutch engagement.
Do you have this problem? A friend of mine has this same problem.
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Old 01-04-2004, 09:27 PM   #2609
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
I did just that ... placed a slice of silicone tubing in the one-way hub. You'll have to estimate the thickness, depending on setting, so that you get max left/right throw.
Sow&Steady, you're still assembling the front portion of the 710? Hurry up man !

Anyway, for me after I set the front trackwidth to below 200 mm, you will find that there is no need to put any silicone fuel tubing as spacers.
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Old 01-04-2004, 09:32 PM   #2610
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
D no need to wait, I havent bought a 710 yet. But 2 of my drivers have. Gives me a reason to start payin attention.
Do yourself a favour and go get yourself 710 Motorman.

Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
D Been wrong before, will be wrong again. Haven't personally eyeballed the shoe yet. Just trying to be helpful. why I don't know. Maybe because Jack is a friend of mine, Certainly dosent mean its the only way to skin a cat.
No worries Dennis. I understand and I've been that route before. I myself get corrected and learn new things about the Serpent car. I hope I don't find a day when I stop learning !

Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
Punisher,

Grow up you wiener
Yeah Punisher... Go get yourself a 710 will ya !
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