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Old 01-04-2004, 03:56 AM   #2551
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pacman25
Yes the 1mm form the end of the flywheel fixing nut is to much to preload and the clutch engauges to late. 0 to .25 is more like it. when you set the clutch up for the .7mm gap I found it best to remove the nut and bearings as it will stop the bell from touching the shoe.

Mr Pac is that what Steven J sets it too as well. Do you know what the numbers are so far. Who's entered?
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Old 01-04-2004, 04:44 AM   #2552
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Originally posted by BG
Mr Pac is that what Steven J sets it too as well. Do you know what the numbers are so far. Who's entered?
No Steve J does his own thing.
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Old 01-04-2004, 06:10 AM   #2553
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Default Re: STILL STARING AT THE 710 BOX

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Originally posted by kenchoco
I AM STILL GAZING AT THE BOX,I FEEEL SO HAPPY...CHOCO
I don't know how you can so patient!

I got home today, saw the box .. ripped it apart and have built all of the front.

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Old 01-04-2004, 06:36 AM   #2554
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Default Re: Gears

Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
What would be a good gear set to use on a small and technical track?
Stock pinions is 17T/22T with 60T/56T spurs. You will want 16T/21T pinions and 61T/57T spurs.

But for me, I'll stay with 17T/60T for the 1st gear combo and shorten only shorten the 2nd gear combo to 21T/57T.
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Old 01-04-2004, 06:42 AM   #2555
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
Jack somthing you might find usefull is to shim the bell instead of the flywheel to get the desired end clearence. This does a couple of things.
1 it keeps the bell from dragging the shoe in a hard right hander causing bog
2 it allows you to really see what the spring adjustment is really doing for you.
Don't confuse the shimming in step 8.7, step 8.6 and step 8.1. The reasons for shimming are the following;

Step 8.1: This 0.5 shim is just for reference. This step of adding shims is actually the same as adding shims in step 8.6. What you add shims in step 8.1 you subtract from 8.6 and vice versa. Of course you can put more depending on your engine (the Sirio comes to mind if I'm not mistaken). But 0.5 mm is about right for most engines. Thinner shims like 0.1 mm ones against the front of the engine bearing will cause the front engine bearing to leak.

Step 8.6: This is to set the end float. It does not necessary mean that you have to get the A measurement as 1.3 mm and B measurement as 0.3 mm. Those figures are just for examples. The more important thing is the A - B DIFFERENCE.

Step 8.7: This shimming is not mentioned in many other brands of Centax. Only Serpent mentions this. I think this is one of the most important steps to include. There are two things this step of shimming provides. One, it takes out the play of the endbell after you install your clutchbell to give it very minimal amount of end play. This makes your thrust beariung life last longer. Secondly, it prevents the clutchbell from rubbing the shoes during idle.

On mine, I use the 1 mm setting on the clutchnut and instead of the suggested 0.7 mm end float, I use the 0.4 mm.

Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
I helped barry baker do this to his centax one weekend and it cured all his ills.
Barry Baker uses Centax on his NTC3? I thought none of the AE factory drivers use Centax on their cars...


Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
Yellow Black
You will want the black one ! The yellow one allows the clutch to slip. Good on certain tracks. The black one provides the best bite.

Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
Hey jack when you get to the fort just ask for one, you can bet the snake boys will have some
Ummm, the size of the shoes are not the same as the old ones used on the 705. The new ones are smaller. Most unlikely the snake boys would have the new shoes in their toolbox. Besides, on a grippy track, the yellow ones are not what you want. You want the back one. The illustration diagram from Step 8.3 is actually taken from the 705 manual which is the standard yellow shoes provided in the kit. The 710 provides the more grippy black XP shoes as standard.
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Old 01-04-2004, 06:43 AM   #2556
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Default Re: Re: Gears

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Stock pinions is 17T/22T with 60T/56T spurs. You will want 16T/21T pinions and 61T/57T spurs.

But for me, I'll stay with 17T/60T for the 1st gear combo and shorten only shorten the 2nd gear combo to 21T/57T.
What about for a very very big track then?
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Old 01-04-2004, 06:43 AM   #2557
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Quote:
Originally posted by BG
The yellow shoe is made of softer material, and is used for high bite tracks so that when the clutch engages it hammers in and there is no slip. As for the black shoe its a little harder and is designed to slip a little for low bite tracks. They dont last as long so look for burn marks on the face of the shoe.

Cheers Bill
Bill, I think you got it the other way around concerning the high and low bite thingy. The black gives better bite and it's softer material (higher wear) and good for high bite tracks.
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Old 01-04-2004, 06:48 AM   #2558
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Quote:
Originally posted by BG
The figures on page 28 for A & B of the manual are only a guide not to be taken into cosideration.

1) First of all make sure that the gears on the clutchbell are tight enough. Assembell and dissasemble these a few times. Clean between each assembly.

2) Place only the 0.5mm shim behind the ""Brass cone"". Make sure you use the Brass one and not any other.

3) Assemble the clutch as described and record your A & B measurements, as per manual page 28.

4) Now the correct gap between the clutch shoe and the bell is 0.7mm. If its closer then your motor will bog down, and if too much then the clutch will have a delayed action and your clutch shoe wont last long as its just grabbing and may even slip too much. This is very important in the Centax Clutch. Get this wrong and you might as well use a electric car.

5) With these 2 measurements take the difference A - B = Clutch Gap 0f 0.7mm.

6) Find the right shims that will give you 0.7mm difference and then place them per diagram.

7) Say you measured 1mm for B and 3mm for A. then the difference will be 2mm. Now there is a total gap of 2mm. You must reduce this to 0.7mm for the right amount of clearance. So you must add 1.3mm of shims to achieve this.

8) Now add the smallest shims so that you minimise the endplay leave about 0.2mm gap.

9) You should always be able to spin the clutchbell when the motor is held verticaly with the clutch facing up or in the down position. If the clutch doesnt spin for at leat 5 seconds recheck your adjustments. Do this without any lubrication on the thrustbearing. Then when your happy lubricate the thrustbearing.


Set the spring collar as per manual. Try this. If it is still a little slugish as I doubt it will be then turn it clockwise 1/4 of a turn at a time and try it till the setting suits you.

You can do this without taking the motor out with a allen key if you didnt know. Just place the key in one of the holes on the clutch bell, locate the spring collar recess and turn.

Cheers Bill
Cool. This is exactly how I build my Centax clutch. The only difference that I do different is the end float (0.4 mm instead of 0.7 mm), the way the flyweights are mounted and close to no end play at all after clutch assembly.
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Old 01-04-2004, 07:04 AM   #2559
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Default Re: Re: Re: Gears

Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
What about for a very very big track then?
You can use up to 23T/55T 2nd gear combo if needed. That will give the car a final drive ratio of 4.48.
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Old 01-04-2004, 07:07 AM   #2560
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for all you guys that have built the car..

Are the diffs easy to get out(like Serpents says)....and how about changing the front and rear belts?...

Not to mention overall maintenance ....Easy car to get apart?...
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Old 01-04-2004, 07:11 AM   #2561
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
for all you guys that have built the car..

Are the diffs easy to get out(like Serpents says)....and how about changing the front and rear belts?...

Not to mention overall maintenance ....Easy car to get apart?...
Yeah, and when changing the belts how much is needed to get to the mid and 2 speed shafts?
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Old 01-04-2004, 07:30 AM   #2562
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Initial D Posted Cool. This is exactly how I build my Centax clutch. The only difference that I do different is the end float (0.4 mm instead of 0.7 mm), the way the flyweights are mounted and close to no end play at all after clutch assembly.[/QUOTE]

Ditto! This is how I set my 1.8 'M' clutch and I do it by feel mostly. I will modify the red clutch shoes made for my 'M' and maybe use the super hard spring as well.
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Old 01-04-2004, 08:01 AM   #2563
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Hey Harry concerning take down and rebuild time, it's at least three times faster than the R40. The 710 is made for keeping you stress free on the track. I also have the R40 (Except for the super chassis, it has every option part available to make it lighter and it is still heavier than the 710) and I sent it to my buddy in Florida who wanted to try it. The main reason I sent it away was engine access. It's impossible to remove the engine without moving the brake bracket or the radio plate. You know what it takes to get to the diffs.....

Four 3mm BH screws, one e clip plus one grub screw in the front and Four 3mm BH screws plus one grub screw on the brake pulley on the rear to change the belts.

Serpent did their homework and have created a true racers dream car. Don't wait!
Tell Ron to have yours by the register so you can start building it!

Chavo
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Old 01-04-2004, 08:08 AM   #2564
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OOPS! I forgot the 2 speed on the rear shaft... Anyway you get the idea.
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Old 01-04-2004, 08:13 AM   #2565
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Quote:
Originally posted by NitroHead
Hey Harry concerning take down and rebuild time, it's at least three times faster than the R40. The 710 is made for keeping you stress free on the track. I also have the R40 (Except for the super chassis, it has every option part available to make it lighter and it is still heavier than the 710) and I sent it to my buddy in Florida who wanted to try it. The main reason I sent it away was engine access. It's impossible to remove the engine without moving the brake bracket or the radio plate. You know what it takes to get to the diffs.....

Four 3mm BH screws, one e clip plus one grub screw in the front and Four 3mm BH screws plus one grub screw on the brake pulley on the rear to change the belts.

Serpent did their homework and have created a true racers dream car. Don't wait!
Tell Ron to have yours by the register so you can start building it!

Chavo

hey Chavo....Are you saying its easier to get to the two speed shaft and front mid shaft on the 710 than the R40?...

say what you want about the HPI's weight,its the easiest car to work on I've ever seen(besides the tc3)...
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