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Old 01-04-2004, 09:48 PM   #2611
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Quote:
Originally posted by NitroHead
Hey Harry concerning take down and rebuild time, it's at least three times faster than the R40. The 710 is made for keeping you stress free on the track. I also have the R40 (Except for the super chassis, it has every option part available to make it lighter and it is still heavier than the 710) and I sent it to my buddy in Florida who wanted to try it. The main reason I sent it away was engine access. It's impossible to remove the engine without moving the brake bracket or the radio plate. You know what it takes to get to the diffs.....

Four 3mm BH screws, one e clip plus one grub screw in the front and Four 3mm BH screws plus one grub screw on the brake pulley on the rear to change the belts.

Serpent did their homework and have created a true racers dream car. Don't wait!
Tell Ron to have yours by the register so you can start building it!

Chavo

I think,for once in my life,I'm going to wait for the company to get the bugs out of a car before I buy it....Maybe the clutch and servo stuff is not a big issue to some,but I've been down the "first customer on the bandwagon route'' route before,esp with Serpent....I'll wait till I see the car run...and how well it holds up..For 2 years worth of testing,this car shouldn't have centax and servo issues(and whatever else is going to develop)...Just my thoughts,nothing else...
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Old 01-04-2004, 10:16 PM   #2612
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Originally posted by InitialD
Thanks Jack. But does it grip the clutchbell while it's gripping the pinions too? Like the B0513 Mugen tool?
Yes- I'm sorry my answer was ambiguous. It grips the bell, but not extremely tightly. I held it tight around the bell with needle nosed vice grips and then still had to use pliars around the outside diameter.
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Old 01-04-2004, 10:22 PM   #2613
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Originally posted by fastharry
I think,for once in my life,I'm going to wait for the company to get the bugs out of a car before I buy it....Maybe the clutch and servo stuff is not a big issue to some,but I've been down the "first customer on the bandwagon route'' route before,esp with Serpent....I'll wait till I see the car run...and how well it holds up..For 2 years worth of testing,this car shouldn't have centax and servo issues(and whatever else is going to develop)...Just my thoughts,nothing else...
Harry, all that hype about the 710 on your sig and now you're backing out?

The steering servo is no issue. Just different servos would require different linkage lengths.

Centax? I think it's more of a setup thingy than anything else.

Besides, what do you need to worry about since there is nothing that cannot be solved or answered by us here on 710 forum with input from guys all around the world and furthermore guys fromt he factory themselves? Where else can you get a forum this good?
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Old 01-04-2004, 10:26 PM   #2614
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Originally posted by clmbia45
Yes- I'm sorry my answer was ambiguous. It grips the bell, but not extremely tightly. I held it tight around the bell with needle nosed vice grips and then still had to use pliars around the outside diameter.
Ummm, wouldn't that be the same ordeal as using the given pinion gripper from the 710 kit? That means the Mugen one is a better tool then since it grips the clutchbell and the pinion without anything else?

Of course the Mugen tool is expensive compared to the HPI one.
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Old 01-04-2004, 10:52 PM   #2615
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Cool

One thing about this clutch issue: I am getting really good at removing the engine. You can remove the engine, with the throttle linkage installed, and with both side braces and the 2 speed on the car.
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Old 01-04-2004, 10:54 PM   #2616
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Originally posted by InitialD
Do you have this problem? A friend of mine has this same problem.
First I though it was my MAX haven't broke in properly.
Luckily, I have to tune the"other" car with same MAX engine.
And no problem with that.

Back to my car and I found that nothing happen when I tighten/lossen the clutch. Could be wrong setting though.
But I never had this problem w/ my Impulse/705 or "other" car that I have to set personally.

I will check the tickness for this shoe and compare it with a new ones. I will let you know by tomorrow.
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Old 01-04-2004, 10:56 PM   #2617
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Originally posted by clmbia45
You can remove the engine, with the throttle linkage installed, and with both side braces and the 2 speed on the car.
Cool, how do you do that? I have tried and I found out that you have to take one of the side braces off to take the engine out. Would be interested to know how you do it...
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Old 01-04-2004, 11:00 PM   #2618
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Originally posted by clmbia45
One thing about this clutch issue: I am getting really good at removing the engine. You can remove the engine, with the throttle linkage installed, and with both side braces and the 2 speed on the car.
.... ha ha ha. I prefer to remove the (exhaust) side braces first. Because all of my engines have "individual" engine mount.
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Old 01-04-2004, 11:01 PM   #2619
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Originally posted by GoldFinger
.... ha ha ha. I prefer to remove the (exhaust) side braces first. Because all of my engines have "individual" engine mount.
GoldFinger, if I'm not wrong, the 710 engine mounts are the same as the 705 right? Just that the 710 one is 1 mm shorter...
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Old 01-04-2004, 11:12 PM   #2620
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Originally posted by InitialD
GoldFinger, if I'm not wrong, the 710 engine mounts are the same as the 705 right? Just that the 710 one is 1 mm shorter...
Yup, actually im still using the 705 engine mount.
Im lowering it 1.2mm in 705 and can be lowered even more in 710. Haven't try it yet, but i think should be difficult. Flywheel is close enough to brke disc.
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Old 01-04-2004, 11:15 PM   #2621
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Cool, how do you do that? I have tried and I found out that you have to take one of the side braces off to take the engine out. Would be interested to know how you do it...
The engine is disconnected from the motor mounts. The rear of the car is to the left and the engine is facing you (clutch). Move the carb linkage to the other side, elevate the rear of the engine about 30 degrees while moving the rear of the engine aft, then rotate the engine clockwise, moving the rear of the engine foreward and the flywheel will just clear the brake rotor. Lift it out!
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Old 01-04-2004, 11:19 PM   #2622
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Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
The engine is disconnected from the motor mounts. The rear of the car is to the left and the engine is facing you (clutch). Move the carb linkage to the other side, elevate the rear of the engine about 30 degrees while moving the rear of the engine aft, then rotate the engine clockwise, moving the rear of the engine foreward and the flywheel will just clear the brake rotor. Lift it out!
Woow, you even have written descriptions on how to remove the engine. Excellent. I'll give it a go when I get back !
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Old 01-04-2004, 11:22 PM   #2623
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
.... ha ha ha. I prefer to remove the (exhaust) side braces first. Because all of my engines have "individual" engine mount.
I used to do that too, but I've found that the Nova and RB engine casings and the Mugen and Serpent motor mounts are now precision made and the bottom of the mounts are level without the old sanding trick.
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Old 01-04-2004, 11:23 PM   #2624
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Default plastics and parts sucks

just raced my 710 today....

well what the hell.. the bumper's busted... not just that cuz that one is understandable..well not really but from an accident. but dang, that's what the bumber is for. both upper and lower cracked and gone. and i even modded it to where the body post is on the upper bumper to make it stronger.

i made the front solid and the left outdrive is now gone. what the hell is wrong with this car. the metal itself....... gone. i lost the race because we need a ball diff so bad on our local track for the front... but then again, the front ball diff is not available anywhere... this sucks really bad!

i told my bro to get both of us serpents because i know for a fact that its the baddest most durable car out there... this is because there's a rookie at our local track with an impulse.. and im telling you... he never misses a board. the car is still in one peice. he's more like a durability test guy you know.

and here comes 710.. the most sophisticated design... most tunable out there. but then the parts sucks.

what the fukc just happened to sepernt!
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Old 01-04-2004, 11:24 PM   #2625
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Yup, actually im still using the 705 engine mount.
Im lowering it 1.2mm in 705 and can be lowered even more in 710. Haven't try it yet, but i think should be difficult. Flywheel is close enough to brke disc.
I think JABRONI mentioned about him lowering his engine mounts by 0.08" (2.032 mm for the metric inclined... ) to make the flywheel contact the starter box better.

I think you need to send the mounts to a machinist to be able to ground them flat.
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