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Old 01-05-2004, 09:38 AM   #2641
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Originally posted by InitialD
If it was cracked, then it would be easy job to fix.
Thanks for the correction, mine is craked but still in one piece.

D, sorry that i broke my promise before.
This week I finish third in our local Lola shell race, but with 710
Its kinda hard you know, to go back to my 705 after cruising with this new snake.
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Old 01-05-2004, 10:44 AM   #2642
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
It should be OK without sanding as long as you dont see the blocked (usually grayish) mark on your chassis when you take off motor mount.
Actually, what I do is, I check each one. I paint the bottom of the motor mounts with a marker pen, attach the motor and run it over fine sand paper to confirm that they're flat. If I found one that wasn't, then I'd dedicate motor and motor mount.
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Old 01-05-2004, 01:40 PM   #2643
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Originally posted by fastharry
My Impulse is a tank.....but thats 'cause it was based on 1/10 on road technology and parts....

You can't complain about the 710 being weaker...cause you cant have it both ways.....If you want a tank,race the HPI.......Light weight?.....get the tc3 or 710....Want to run a Mugen?..Look how many people complaing about the front suspension in that car being weak...

I complain that HPI's parts are too soft..but guess what,NO breakage on the boards.......

Serpent parts are stiffer?.....well.you have the answer..


I'm not saying one car is better than the rest...

but as cars get lighter...and faster,one thing between all the cars will stay constant in the universe....

YOU GOT TO STAY OFF THE BOARDS!!!

well ok... stay off the boards! thats understandable.

but how about the oneway outdrive... mine cracked in half. this is not from the accident. my bumper broke with a slow front end hit. our local track is only 100 by 50 feet. very very small and i didn't hit the car from the straightaway. it was from the inside... from a 180 degree turn. so im talking 5-10 mph.

but then again.. i was just pissed. i'll keep the car and see whats gonna happen. and who knows... maybe this will be the best car after all. its too early to complain anyways
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Old 01-05-2004, 04:26 PM   #2644
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Default my 710-

the only thing i can say i have had difficulty with is the steering setup,and the 2 speed adjustment.the steering was easily fixed
like everyone else has done (i assume).but the 2 speed i havent been able to nail.if i ease on the throttle to w.o.t i dont hear it shift.the same if i hammer the throttle...maybe its just me but on my tc3 i can hear a definative change in engine rpms and tone.
i have went through the book setup am i missing something ??
any input would be helpful
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Old 01-05-2004, 04:52 PM   #2645
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How come no one has mentioned the terrible push the car develops coming out of the turns? Yesterday we had four or five guys, including Serpent driver Scotty Gray racing the new 710, and we all had the same on power push coming out of the turns. Also the clutch is a problem Scotty's dad help me get mine working somewhat, and they are using the old gray clutch spring which we could not find one for me so I had to continue with the stock one!
Also, I broke the left rear lower arm during the main. My fault for tapping the concrete barrier on the straight away! But, again this was due to the push when I nailed the throttle!
I was pleased at how quickly I was able to replace this part though. It took all of 3 minutes flat!
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:05 PM   #2646
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guys

when putting togethet your 710 what are the two plastic peices in bag D=939

also I see a lot of you guys have your 710 together and racing, how do you like it? and how does it compare to the other top cars out there?
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:06 PM   #2647
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Quote:
Originally posted by JoshVilleneuve
How come no one has mentioned the terrible push the car develops coming out of the turns? Yesterday we had four or five guys, including Serpent driver Scotty Gray racing the new 710, and we all had the same on power push coming out of the turns. Also the clutch is a problem Scotty's dad help me get mine working somewhat, and they are using the old gray clutch spring which we could not find one for me so I had to continue with the stock one!
Also, I broke the left rear lower arm during the main. My fault for tapping the concrete barrier on the straight away! But, again this was due to the push when I nailed the throttle!
I was pleased at how quickly I was able to replace this part though. It took all of 3 minutes flat!

tighten the rear diff... it will help
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:12 PM   #2648
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with the steering throwing more to the left then the right, I saw someone post that they cut the arm down, but no matter how much I cut the arm down it still will not screw past the stop point of the arm so I cannot shorten the length, does anyone have any suggestions?
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:39 PM   #2649
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Default Re: my 710-

Quote:
Originally posted by bowtieluv1
but the 2 speed i havent been able to nail.if i ease on the throttle to w.o.t i dont hear it shift.the same if i hammer the throttle...maybe its just me but on my tc3 i can hear a definative change in engine rpms and tone.
I assume you set the 2 speed according to Step 7.1 and Step 9.2?

Perhaps the reason why you're not hearing the 2nd speed shift is because it could already have shifted early. What I did on mine is I tightened half a round in from the setting I set in Step 7.1.

At the end of the day, I counted the number of rounds from tightening the 2 screws with springs to be 5 rounds out.
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:47 PM   #2650
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Quote:
Originally posted by JoshVilleneuve
How come no one has mentioned the terrible push the car develops coming out of the turns? Yesterday we had four or five guys, including Serpent driver Scotty Gray racing the new 710, and we all had the same on power push coming out of the turns.
Were you guys using the stock kit tires? I think they are 40 shore front and 35 shore rear. I think that could be your problem. Too much rear grip. I changed the tires to my own and used 40 shore front and rear. No on power pushing.

Also, what tire diameters were you using? If you were using out of the box tires (66 mm) while maintaining your ride height, did you reset and adjusted your droop screws accordingly (especially front)? If the stock setup says 0 droop in front with 62 mm tires, you should set the front droop to +2 instead when you use 66 mm tires.

Quote:
Originally posted by JoshVilleneuve
Also the clutch is a problem Scotty's dad help me get mine working somewhat, and they are using the old gray clutch spring which we could not find one for me so I had to continue with the stock one!
The stock spring worked fine for me. It's just a matter of setting up the clutch properly. You probably need to loosed the nut that holds the spring to get the clutch to engage nicely.
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:49 PM   #2651
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Quote:
Originally posted by evlhdlts
tighten the rear diff... it will help
Yup. That will help too.
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:53 PM   #2652
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcjayy
with the steering throwing more to the left then the right, I saw someone post that they cut the arm down, but no matter how much I cut the arm down it still will not screw past the stop point of the arm so I cannot shorten the length, does anyone have any suggestions?
Ummm, I think I've repeated this many times already. What servos are you using?

I cut the metal (the stock rod linkage) down to 17 mm. Stock lenght of the rod linkage is 23 mm from tip to tip.

As for the plastic, I trimmed the length of the ball cups. The picture attached shows the top one being the original (and uncut) and the bottom one is the one that was trimmed.



This combo gives the total length of the ball cups and rod linkage assembly as 39.5 mm instead of 44.5 mm.

Also, I made the servo horn on the steering servo at 90 degrees to the servo linkage instead of 90 degrees to the servo casing at neutral.
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Old 01-05-2004, 06:02 PM   #2653
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
Ammdrew you never know. You know better than to ask that! You know exactly what I'm talking about.
yea I do but I would not even bring anything but a oneway to that track.. unless it rains.. only option would be to take the solid rear out and run a diff.. the team guys did last year to get that little boost around the hairpin, but i perfer running a bit more drag brake .. times were pretty similar..


i will start with a diff, and go to a lockeed diff if i can keep my times down..
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Old 01-05-2004, 06:11 PM   #2654
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Were you guys using the stock kit tires? I think they are 40 shore front and 35 shore rear. I think that could be your problem. Too much rear grip. I changed the tires to my own and used 40 shore front and rear. No on power pushing.

Also, what tire diameters were you using? If you were using out of the box tires (66 mm) while maintaining your ride height, did you reset and adjusted your droop screws accordingly (especially front)? If the stock setup says 0 droop in front with 62 mm tires, you should set the front droop to +2 instead when you use 66 mm tires.

Actually , I started out with Ellegi 40's then went to 37's and yesterday went back to 40.
What has had the most success so far was raising the front roll center! Next we are working with lowering the rear roll center!
Tire size is 60 mm f/r.
As far as the rear diff, I started out with tight like my impulse pro. Did not work well. When I loosened the rear diff it actually improved and then I am tightening it up as other adjustments improve the handling!
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Old 01-05-2004, 06:14 PM   #2655
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Actually , I started out with Ellegi 40's then went to 37's and yesterday went back to 40.
What has had the most success so far was raising the front roll center! Next we are working with lowering the rear roll center!
Tire size is 60 mm f/r.
As far as the rear diff, I started out with tight like my impulse pro. Did not work well. When I loosened the rear diff it actually improved and then I am tightening it up as other adjustments improve the handling!
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