Sc10
 

Got my sc10 up and running. Got a venom 17t and xl-5 esc combo, losi 2.4 radio, and some old hitec junker servo. running three random batteries two. Eventually switching to a futaba or airtronics digital servo and 2.4 3 channel system. Batteries, I'm cheap, are reedy wolfpacks decent for thursday night racing. How about a novak havok 17.5 b/l system, are they decent? (would get a tekin rs, but if i did, i couldnt get a servo and batteries) What are other hop ups for the truck after electronics? Heres some pictures:

guess I can only get one uploaded for now... Canadian Prarie internet..

Nice looking truck! I would get a front brace and a set of RPM arms for the front as your first upgrade. I like the ball diff and also use CVD's. Really don't need that much for the SC10 out of the box. Here is a pic of the brace...

Think so? It's hard to tell is a candy purple in the back, but its one sick colour I'll probably get the rpm front arms, I hope they make rear ones for the t4/b4 or sc10 soon. I'll probably go to the ball diff and cvd's two, then just do small hop ups here and there, wheels and tires, titanium turnbuckls, a new body, CF battery strap ect.... just random upgrades that aren't necesarry

your in luck today..
#70742 – SC10 & T4 Black Rear A-arms
#70745 – SC10 & T4 Blue Rear A-arms

Suggested Retail Price
$10.95 / pair

ok guys im building my boy a sc10 for next season and want to keep within roar specs on the motor and esc

what is gonna be the best17.5t setup to use?

i am fan of the mamba max pro and team orion 17.5

Yea I like the colors, will be nice and easy to see. One thing I noticed with my SC10 after about a month at the track my back fenders started to crack, so I hacked them off. I tried to keep my body perdy as long as I could lol.

And a note about the ball diff... You will need the T4 diff case, the one that comes with the SC10 is not a direct drop in (I thought it was). You will also need the two bearings for the out drives. I included a picture for ya.

You won't need new turn buckles but if you want to upgrade them go for it. Do wheels and tires first, Proline Split Six and depending on where you run, bow ties, calibers or goose bumps.

I would say Novak Ballistic 17.5 or Tekin RS/RS Pro with a Redline 17.5.

mip sells a direct drop in ball diff.

Its really nice too, I seen 4 gear diffs go boom, last Saturday at the track.

The body does look sick, its hard to tell in pictures because of the light, but the rear paint is a candy purple. I hope I can keep it good for awhile, If it cracks, I'll guess I'll just star stop drilling holes and busting out the CA. I'll probably do wheels/tires RPM arms all around ball diff, and get the t4 case/ diff bearings after I've gotten my 2.4 radio b/l system and mg servo. Also, the 1/10th truck ball ends from rpm? what are they like, anybody know. I had a stock one shatter when I put it on. The CA is just hardly holding it together.

And the body is gonna stay good looking for awhile, we just got a dumpload of snow, so racing on the makeshift backyard grasstrack, and the weeded over local track isn't going to happen for the next 4 months....

Hey that front chassis brace, yours is porbably custom cut, but will the new rpm bumper and skidplate do? Also, anyone know if you can turn the bumper itself upsidown, because it blocks out the sc10's sweet looking grille. Can you on the slash, because the bumpers themselves are identical between rpm's slash bumper kit and the sc10's bumper kit.

I think the RPM bumper and skid would be another option to the aluminum one... Mines not custom made, New Era makes them. Here is a better picture before I drove it. Today I broke my rear chassis at the support brace... Fixed it with a some longer screws and CA glue. :cry:

I know this question get's asked alot, but it's a very important question in my opinion and new to the brushless scene, so here it goes,,,, running a 13.5 motor in my SC10 with 1/8th scale buggy tires,,, where should I start to gear this monster at??? Thanks for all your help,

Depends on the track and what motor and esc you are using, but a good (safe) starting point would be around 23/75. Check your temps and gear up if you are under 140.