If your racing I'd check with your track before the purchase to make sure its legal. I like 17.5 in these trucks but a 13.5 will work also. Anything more and your overkill. I run the Fantom motors and have had great luck with them.

+1

DX3R is so light and easy to navigate, I love mine.

Take a look at the Futaba FAAST systems. The 3PM is in that price range. I have one and I like it a lot.

+1

I've had M8 & M11 and got rid of them. 3R is so light with only 4 AA's. It's like nothing in your hand. Plus you can have 1 radio for all your cars. (5)

DX3R..is not in my budget...i was looking for opinions from the one's i listed...but thnx for your love of DX3R...

It was a hard pill for me to swallow too. I had a DX3 and the biggest reason I stepped up was the three position 3rd channel for the dig on my crawler.

Once I had it and started using it I liked it more and more though. It has been very tough, I do not treat it very well at all and it just keeps going.

I had an SC10 a while back, and mine had the diff issue, so I had ordered a diff rebuild kit from AE, rebuilt the diff, and everything was fine.

I have a new SC10 now I got from a buddy of mine (he ran it once), and I drove it for the first time in my house, it started making the “clicking” noise my old one did, so I thought uh-oh…gotta rebuild this diff too. Well, it did something a little different this time…the vehicle suddenly just STOPPED moving. The motor spins, and the car barely moves, almost as if you had a really loose slipper clutch. It’s not the slipper, I checked that. When you grab one tire, and hit the throttle, the other wheel seems to spin as normal, but when both are on the ground, it’s a lot of vroom-vroom, but no go-go.

This has gotta be my diff eh? I have a race Saturday and am hoping my rebuild kit will be here in time.

You just smoked a wheel hub!

I DO know that one of the wheels is stripped out, where the pin locks into the wheel. My buddy put a washer between the nut and the wheel to hold it tighter. I didn’t try replacing the wheel yet, but maybe I’ll try that tonight. You sure that’s about right?

my buddy's sc10 has the same issue after rebuilding his tranny come to find out he stripped his wheel hub...noise was clicking when turning not in a straight line.ae should have used a hex what where they thinking ...

I took one out the lap after the time and my truck just stopped. Last night in practice the same thing it just stopped and a wheel was gone. The one last night was JBed but it looked like it capped a bubble and then the JB got pushed down inside the wheel below where the pin was and it stripped.

There's nothing wrong with the wheels. Replace the lock nuts every few races or use blue thread lock on the axle thread just before the nylon on the nut. I do the latter and have never had a wheel come loose of strip out. If it strips it's because the wheel nut comes loose!

That dog don't hunt, the wheels are very much under engineered. I have more than one set that the internal spokes are bending after a few runs, not to mention I have to epoxy them right off the bat and still have stripped two wheels with tight nuts and I am only running a 13.5.

An interesting fact is both times it was the left wheel, the one that rotation is tightening!

This is all repeat stuff but don't forget,

the nut can bottom out on the unthreaded shoulder of the axle BEFORE it tightens down on the wheel leaving the wheel free to wobble.
Put a washer on before the nut to be sure the nut pinches down on the wheel tightly then check it to make sure it stays tight, Loctite, fresh Losi thin locknuts and you're done.
Of course epoxy the hub or run set screws into the holes to reinforce that area.