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the shock towers, chassis, diff, trans case and bumpers are different from the the T4.
Also dont run the AE 8/32 wheel nuts. Run Losi ones instead. You can also run set screws in the wheel hex areas to instead of JB Weld. |
Originally Posted by Ephidelt490
(Post 6082923)
Fill the holes with epoxy
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Originally Posted by slash_abuser
(Post 6082374)
I have had multiple issues with the AE SC10 wheels striping out. I always make sure the wheel is on correctly, and tight, but every once in a while it strips out at the most inconvenient times (once before a main). If you look at where the pin pops into the wheel, you will see a bunch of open spaces. Now my T4 stock wheels do not have that. Its all solid. So eventually that pin tears through the wheel and it strips out. I am going to try the Pro-line Split-Six beadlocks to see if the hold up. Just a heads up.
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Cures for pushing, I need some. I'm running goosebumps on a medium/firm track that consists mostly of loam.
Black grease in diff. 30wt in front/no preload/silver spring 30wt rear/3/8"preload/green spring Battery all the way forward Very low speed off power steering is great, off power high speed is marginal at best. Onpower steering regardless of speed is marginal also. The truck isn't to bad but it seems like it could be better. Anyone run green springs in the front? I may give them a try. Thanks for the input..........BB |
Originally Posted by Buggy Brad
(Post 6086909)
Cures for pushing, I need some. I'm running goosebumps on a medium/firm track that consists mostly of loam.
Black grease in diff. 30wt in front/no preload/silver spring 30wt rear/3/8"preload/green spring Battery all the way forward Very low speed off power steering is great, off power high speed is marginal at best. Onpower steering regardless of speed is marginal also. The truck isn't to bad but it seems like it could be better. Anyone run green springs in the front? I may give them a try. Thanks for the input..........BB |
Mark
Hey Mark have you had any problems with it nose diving? And what would you do to help it out? Your setup by the way is pretty good!
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Originally Posted by rcmark24
(Post 6087094)
Push? Wow. I'm running 35wt in front with pretty much the same setup and no push. Try 30 degree blocks.
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Originally Posted by LWracer
(Post 6087110)
Hey Mark have you had any problems with it nose diving? And what would you do to help it out? Your setup by the way is pretty good!
Letting of gas on jump face Hitting jump face to fast Soft rear suspension bottoming and kicking the rear up Tapping brakes mid air Do any of those things seem to fit?.........BB |
well, i already burnt up my first RTR esc.
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Its something in the set-up no one else has this problem.
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Also, having your front suspension to soft. If the nose digs into the jump, it will rotate the rear upward.
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Originally Posted by RcRacing4Ever
(Post 6083713)
Ya back on page 70 something they talk about filling the inside of the rim with j b weld to stop the stipping process. Now on the proline site they have a new rim..http://www.prolineracing.com/ They are showing some new beadlocks that bolt onto the Sc10. But U can see they are using the same setup with the pin design so I dont know if you have to do the j b weld trick filling in the space. I havent run the rims so I have no knowledge of its durablity.
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Buggy Brad, make sure your servo saver is tightened all the way. It should be tightened all the way down til it stops. If its loose or stripped you will have a serious on power push. If you dont already have the HD servo saver spring get it!
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
(Post 6089090)
Buggy Brad, make sure your servo saver is tightened all the way. It should be tightened all the way down til it stops. If its loose or stripped you will have a serious on power push. If you dont already have the HD servo saver spring get it!
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Originally Posted by Buggy Brad
(Post 6090491)
Thanks for the info but that's not the case, I can see the tires turned as I push out of the corner........BB
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