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-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

BuggyKing 07-18-2009 09:32 PM

the shock towers, chassis, diff, trans case and bumpers are different from the the T4.

Also dont run the AE 8/32 wheel nuts. Run Losi ones instead. You can also run set screws in the wheel hex areas to instead of JB Weld.

balistic 07-18-2009 10:27 PM


Originally Posted by Ephidelt490 (Post 6082923)
Fill the holes with epoxy

I took a stripped wheel and filled it with JB weld and as it kicked cut the pin slots out with a razor knife. works great and saved a set of tires.

kwiksi 07-19-2009 09:02 AM


Originally Posted by slash_abuser (Post 6082374)
I have had multiple issues with the AE SC10 wheels striping out. I always make sure the wheel is on correctly, and tight, but every once in a while it strips out at the most inconvenient times (once before a main). If you look at where the pin pops into the wheel, you will see a bunch of open spaces. Now my T4 stock wheels do not have that. Its all solid. So eventually that pin tears through the wheel and it strips out. I am going to try the Pro-line Split-Six beadlocks to see if the hold up. Just a heads up.

A little thread lock on the axle just before the nylon part of the nut goes along way. I prolly have run 50+ packs and no stripped wheels or loose nuts.:nod:

Buggy Brad 07-19-2009 12:56 PM

Cures for pushing, I need some. I'm running goosebumps on a medium/firm track that consists mostly of loam.
Black grease in diff.
30wt in front/no preload/silver spring
30wt rear/3/8"preload/green spring
Battery all the way forward

Very low speed off power steering is great, off power high speed is marginal at best. Onpower steering regardless of speed is marginal also. The truck isn't to bad but it seems like it could be better. Anyone run green springs in the front? I may give them a try. Thanks for the input..........BB

rcmark24 07-19-2009 02:29 PM


Originally Posted by Buggy Brad (Post 6086909)
Cures for pushing, I need some. I'm running goosebumps on a medium/firm track that consists mostly of loam.
Black grease in diff.
30wt in front/no preload/silver spring
30wt rear/3/8"preload/green spring
Battery all the way forward

Very low speed off power steering is great, off power high speed is marginal at best. Onpower steering regardless of speed is marginal also. The truck isn't to bad but it seems like it could be better. Anyone run green springs in the front? I may give them a try. Thanks for the input..........BB

Push? Wow. I'm running 35wt in front with pretty much the same setup and no push. Try 30 degree blocks.

LWracer 07-19-2009 02:36 PM

Mark
 
Hey Mark have you had any problems with it nose diving? And what would you do to help it out? Your setup by the way is pretty good!

Buggy Brad 07-19-2009 02:48 PM


Originally Posted by rcmark24 (Post 6087094)
Push? Wow. I'm running 35wt in front with pretty much the same setup and no push. Try 30 degree blocks.

I'll look into that, thanks........BB

Buggy Brad 07-19-2009 02:54 PM


Originally Posted by LWracer (Post 6087110)
Hey Mark have you had any problems with it nose diving? And what would you do to help it out? Your setup by the way is pretty good!

Nose diving can be caused by many things,

Letting of gas on jump face
Hitting jump face to fast
Soft rear suspension bottoming and kicking the rear up
Tapping brakes mid air

Do any of those things seem to fit?.........BB

Bigedmond 07-19-2009 02:55 PM

well, i already burnt up my first RTR esc.

LWracer 07-19-2009 03:03 PM

Its something in the set-up no one else has this problem.

Bigedmond 07-19-2009 05:08 PM

Also, having your front suspension to soft. If the nose digs into the jump, it will rotate the rear upward.

slash_abuser 07-19-2009 10:10 PM


Originally Posted by RcRacing4Ever (Post 6083713)
Ya back on page 70 something they talk about filling the inside of the rim with j b weld to stop the stipping process. Now on the proline site they have a new rim..http://www.prolineracing.com/ They are showing some new beadlocks that bolt onto the Sc10. But U can see they are using the same setup with the pin design so I dont know if you have to do the j b weld trick filling in the space. I havent run the rims so I have no knowledge of its durablity.

I will try that. Thanks for the info

aeRayls 07-19-2009 11:59 PM

Buggy Brad, make sure your servo saver is tightened all the way. It should be tightened all the way down til it stops. If its loose or stripped you will have a serious on power push. If you dont already have the HD servo saver spring get it!

Buggy Brad 07-20-2009 09:16 AM


Originally Posted by aeRayls (Post 6089090)
Buggy Brad, make sure your servo saver is tightened all the way. It should be tightened all the way down til it stops. If its loose or stripped you will have a serious on power push. If you dont already have the HD servo saver spring get it!

Thanks for the info but that's not the case, I can see the tires turned as I push out of the corner........BB

RcRacing4Ever 07-20-2009 10:14 AM


Originally Posted by Buggy Brad (Post 6090491)
Thanks for the info but that's not the case, I can see the tires turned as I push out of the corner........BB

sounds like a setup problem? I have alittle weight up front on mine to help it transition alittle better. & also I tried the 30 degree caster blocks which helped alot # 9593


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