i have the full set front and rear they're lighter then stock screws wont strip out the a-arms like the stock ones..i have about 3 races on them never gave me a problem.

GT2 are stronger.

Ive been using the stock plastic caps on AE trucks for over 20 years, and they havent changed. If you practic you can just build them with the stock caps, loosten the caps, bleed out the air, and your done. It saves $10 or so bucks.

Carbon is more brittle than composite. They will snap easier when you hit something.

Your very best bet, if you dont ever want to break arms again, is get the GT2 front a arms from RPM. I put them on a 10t almost three years ago and never had any issues since.

just a reminder for the guys looking for a bit more forward bite:nod:


http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ok-inside.html

I tried the VS2 caps on my SC10 and they didn't seem to fit properly? It was like they didn't screw down all of the way and they leaked? I have them on my FT T4 and I love them. Did you have to do anything else to make them work with the SC10 shock bodies? Another great hop-up for the shocks is the RPM dual stage pistons, they make a huge difference.

The reason I like bladder shock caps is because you can't bleed the air out of the plastic cap AE shocks, or any shock for that matter. Unless it is a through shaft like the side shocks on the RC10R5;

4. Innovative thru-shaft shocks
used in side shock positions

* Consistent shock building with no rebound helps keep rear pod tweak free

they must have air in them to compensate for the volume of the shock shaft. That air compression is measured with rebound.

without the bladder the air in the shock goes into emulsion with the oil, with the bladder the air is trapped on the high side of the bladder and the oil stays just oil. I cant say it there is a measurable difference in performance but I find it much easier to get consistent rebound with bladder caps and I like the idea that there is no air in my shock oil, From AE's promo;

VCS2 bladder style center shock provides consistent damping and easy maintenance

Did you take the O-ring off the body?

the plastic gt2 arms from rpm? or do they make anything else?

Yes I did, it seemed like the fronts were worse. It's like the threads are different or something. My buddy used them on his and they don't leak, but he had to use pliers to crank them down. Not something I wanted to do.

there will be a point where you fell the bladder hit the shock body, mine are just finger tight past that point, I think the threaded part bottoms right there too, and don't leak at all. I have them on TC shocks, the FTs on my B44 and the SC10 without any problems.

Blew the gears in my diff last race. Any suggestions on a stronger diff or maybe even a ball diff if available?

You serious? Did you shim it properly? If so, how many packs did you put in before it blew?

Well i was running a 6.5t motor for a while with 8th scale buggy tires. 28/75gearing. It was under alot of stress. I shimmed how the manual told me to.

Want a bullet proof diff for the SC10? I am using the alluminum one from Hot-Racing.com also using the alluminum idler gear. Been using it for a month now with no issues at all.

Is it loud!?