Not at all. Very very small amount of green slim applied to the gears before re-assembled. The only thing I hear is the slipper clutch working. This is a must have hop up if you don't want a ball diff. I even tried the ball diff and went back to the gear diff.

A spool and diff are slightly different!

you can use the T4 ball diff, case, bearings or MIP has a ball diff that bolts in the SC10.

Not refering to the spool. They also have a diff. http://hot-racing.com/index.cgi?part...=SCT38HD&c=461 I am using the diff.

that's a nice looking part and cheaper than a ball diff too.

Here is where I got mine from. http://cgi.ebay.com/TEAM-ASSOCIATED-...DLVI%26ps%3D54

Was your SC10 a kit? I had one of the earlier kit and on my first run, I had the clickity click sound from my diff...

It's a shim issue. So now I shoved three shims per side into it, was pretty tight fit, but I think it broke in pretty well after a few runs...

I'm running a 4600Kv + Mamba Max. However, I'm running NiMH still...

Diff?
 

Hey man ...Im checking out the diff housing you are talking about. Do you still have to use the same Planetary gears from Ae & also double shim it?

Use the same gears and two shims per side inside.

cool... do u know or anybody know the size of these shims & where to find them? Just dont wanna spend 8 bucks to get shims or call Ae all the time cause I might need them in on the fly

So... you still have to shim it... you still use the diff gears... it costs more... It is heavier... Can someone explain to me the advantage of this?

Shimming is no different than the original, just putting both shims on the inside. You are using the original diff gears. I don't see your point here? Cost savings you will never have to replace or rebuild this diff. Heavier - yes however have you driven one? I run a 10.5 in mine and see it's smoother than the original diff. Advantage? I like to know that my diff will not give me any trouble and not have to maintain it every other week. Just charge a battery and go in this class.

Take a look at all the other SCT trucks that are coming out. All metal gear diffs.

Try it you'll like it!!!

Actually you hit it right on the nose. I bought this kit when they first released. And it makes the clicking noise when i come out of turns.

So i just shim it behind the set pin that keeps the ring gear from moving?

Gearing
 

Does anyone have a good starting gear for a lrp comp esc and lrp 10.5? Much thanks just need a place to start.

so what run times do you think i can get out of a 6cell nimh 4600 mAh in the stock sc10 RTR. sorry if this is a dumb question but im a nitro guy!! well not anymore!

I ran mine w/RTR motor and ESC last weekend on a big track, and was only putting 1700 mah or so back in after a 5 minute qual. Ran a 7 minute main with no problems, no loss in power. Run time shouldn't be an issue for you, but brushed motors heat up more than BL. I'd try to keep runtimes to 7 minutes or less. I've heard a lot of complaints about the Radon running excessively hot, but I didn't have a problem. Even after the main I could touch the motor and keep my finger there. My motor is hardwired and I'm running Dean's for battery instead of the Tamiya plugs. I think the stock motor and battery connections probably contribute to heat buildup, change them out if you can.