I'm confused, if I convert my SC10 Factory Team to the 12mm hex hubs in the front, what are the proper wheels to run on it from that point on?

All these different offsets get confusing. Can someone give me a part number or link?

Here are a few. Any of the Protrack premounts will work also.
http://prolineracing.com/wheels/prot...-black-wheels/
http://prolineracing.com/wheels/prot...-white-wheels/
http://prolineracing.com/wheels/prot...-piece-wheels/

these are what your looking for

JConcept RELUX #3332

12mm hex

De racing makes some too. Any of the sc10 4x4 rims will work. U can also use the hazard rims they r +3mm.

I would say go with the JConcept Rulux wheels, or if you want a little bit of a wider (more stable) stance, go with the JConcept Hazard wheels. Both of them are very popular among the local SC10 racers in my area. I run the Hazards currently (with the stock body) and they work excellent!

Then you have to watch which hexes you run.
ProLine hexes work with 0 offset ProLine rims. Jconcepts hexes work great with the 3mm offset hazards. Your final width will be the same in those combos. I was running the ProLine hexes with jconcepts hazards and they stick out side the body and rub the body and rub tread off the tires.

Hey Bert.
It will depend on which hex conversion you use. Let me know which one you want and I can show you the options.

I have rebuilt them according to the instructions including using green slime. I have had. Four different associated vehicles over the years, and there always seems to be issues with the shocks leaking. As you suggested I looked into the v2's. I noticed that I can get the rear v2's for around $40, so maybe I will go that route. The thing is that I can get 4 of the traxxas big bore platinum shocks for almost the same price, and I like the idea of the big bores, I also like the idea of shocks that are not so finniky.

This is part of what bugs me about the associated shocks.

Let's see all that I need is:
new factory team v2 shock kit
green slime
aftermarket o-rings
aftermarket springs
aftermarket collars

Might as well buy something that works right from the factory.

AE has big bores coming. Some of us don't want to wait.

I run the aftermarket collars because I run longer springs. I run longer springs because I want to. My truck is no better on track than it was with the standard AE springs, but I feel a lot better because they don't drag on the shocks anymore.

TLR makes 22T front springs in the proper length now, so as long as you don't run Kyosho rears you won't need them.

I think I found a good solution for leaking from the caps, I haven't had an issue with leaks from the bottom in the V2.

I use the Kyosho seals inside the FT Al caps, then also use the stock seal and put it on top of the shock body when filling and fitting the cap. The Kyosho fits nice inside the cap groove, but is a little too big and I find it folded up inside the shock a few times, and the AE it too soft and not quite big enough to seal the gap well enough.

I also started wrapping the body threads with Teflon tape to triple-seal those suckers.

Do the bleader shock caps do a better job sealing? I got some of those but gave up on them after trying to get the screw to start for a half hour and didnt' have the right size bit to help it out.

Does the latest Factory Team kit come with?......

Receiver Box
FT Blue Ballstud Washers

Also, are these junk?.....

Stock "front" inserts
Dif Balls

Just trying to sort out what I need to get with my new kit. Thanks!!

YES. IMO this is why the AE shocks have a reputation for leaking, users aren't bleeding them off enough, and when they use them, they build pressure and blow out the orings. I have no special parts, mine don't leak.

Mine were kind of tough to get started, but ICRC I screwed the cap on the shock body so I had something to lean against (how else are you going to keep that little piece of plastic from squirming around?), and then just drove it home with an .050. I think I took a countersink to remove the molding flash/slightly taper the edge of it. It wasn't that hard, but it was a PIA.

You only have to do it once.

I really love the V2 shocks. The only thing I do different is use a 'double seal' o-ring along with the stock AE red one.

Ok, with the whole big bore thing being discussed, with the weight that these SC trucks have, the higher volume that big bores allow isn't needed because their isn't enough weight being thrown around. Trust me when I say that the V2 shocks if built and maintained properly will be fine. With the TLR springs, the V2 shocks come to life.