R/C Tech Forums - SC10 Thread

ROTFLMAO!!! Thats exactly what I did. After half an hour with tooth brush and paper towels I ripped out the electronics and said Fuck-it! IN the Dishwasher you go!

;)

jt145

03-05-2012 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lake Ober (Post 10424149)

I believe they do... if you do the Losi-type conversion (spring cups and upper retainers) on your SC10, that we have been talking about on here. However, I'm not sure why someone would want to unless they already have a bunch of Kyosho BB spring, they are over $20 a pair! :eek: Insanity if you ask me.

Also, quick question, I currently am running a gear ration of 18/87 on my F.T., with a 10.5T Thunder Power motor. I am getting great temps. (always less then 150F), but feel that I should be able to get a bit more speed out of the setup. I could program my MMP to go into C.H.E.A.T. mode, but prefer to leave that alone and change the gearing first (I assume it's a better option, I'm not sure). Anyways, if I am getting decent temps. with the 18/87 ratio, what gear ratio would you guys recommend for a bit on an increase in speed down the straight-away? Thanks!

I have the same issue with my Tekin 10.5T motor. Im running 18/84 gears consistently under 130 degrees. Curious to see what you try next and how it works. Dont forget to post it here. Will do the same. Me thinks today Im gonna throw my 75T spur that came with the factory team kit in there an run 18/75 today for kicks.

-JT:tire:

jrj1451

03-05-2012 10:58 AM

Question

New to short course. I am trying to figure out how much weight and where to put it. I have the rear ballast in with the battery all the way back. I know I need to add more weight to the truck thought for handling issues. I was told to add 3 oz in the back and start moving the battery forward. Does that sound right and where do I add the three ounces other than directly in the battery tray in front of toe block. Any suggestions would be great. It's a mod SC and I'm running 8.5T motor. Thanks.

Wild Cherry

03-05-2012 11:10 AM

jrj

3oz is correct , behind the battery is where to put ..

advise to leave the ballast weight off the transmission to start

check www.rc10.com for set-ups , good stuff ...

Bdabuck

03-05-2012 11:44 AM

Ballast weight

Do you believe the ballast weight is hard on the transmission connections Mr? I have broken tabs on front of my transmission case. Ballast possibly the culprit?

Wild Cherry

03-05-2012 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bdabuck (Post 10424867)

Do you believe the ballast weight is hard on the transmission connections Mr? I have broken tabs on front of my transmission case. Ballast possibly the culprit?

The weight is not even attached to the transmission, rather to the rear suspension block.
Don't think the weight is hard on any parts at all IMO ....

Interesting that you are experiencing the tabs breaking ....

Bdabuck

03-05-2012 12:32 PM

Just saying since I started using the ballast, I have stripped and broken tabs. Should I have fastened it down? It does not move when placed where it is supposed to go? Just wondering if that is why you don't advise to use for adding weight in above post.

MaplestreetRC

03-05-2012 12:45 PM

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Set-SC10RS

I am doing the front hex conversion on my SC10 FT and I hit a snag. These Team Associated steering blocks for the hex require a little nut that the ball stud screws into, but those nuts were not included with any of the parts for this.

Anyone know what I need?

CoyoteSlash

03-05-2012 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaplestreetRC (Post 10425121)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10090792-post8612.html

4449

Asharus

03-05-2012 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bdabuck (Post 10425063)

are you sliding the ballast with the dot facing forward as per the instructions?

Murray100

03-05-2012 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bdabuck (Post 10425063)

I also taped mine into position so it would not move.

Bdabuck

03-05-2012 01:16 PM

Yes. Ballast does not move at all. It is in there right. Just wonder if my experience is why Wild Cherry does not advise it in above post. Just asking?

bsh	03-05-2012 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaplestreetRC (Post 10425121)

Anyone know what I need?

AE4449

Wild Cherry

03-05-2012 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bdabuck (Post 10425235)

Yes. Ballast does not move at all. It is in there right. Just wonder if my experience is why Wild Cherry does not advise it in above post. Just asking?

Suggested only for the handling performance .

There is more side bite, less steering using no weight on rear suspension mount .

dman7

03-05-2012 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 10424475)

I've never tried them, but in my research it seemed the V2's had better performance, plus I was worried about being able to find spare & springs for the proline's as none of my LHS's had them.

For the basher they may help, but I think for racing where you know where and how hard the big landings will be, you can better tune for botom-out protection via pistons and shock oil weights since the oil provides more resistance at high speed going though the same piston holes.

I just put some pro-line rears on my sc10 this weekend. they are very nice shocks, buttery smooth. However they are a bit long for the sc10, so you may have to put travel limiters in if you need to ride low.

I am running on an indoor carpet track, where you have to get the truck really low to avoid rollovers, and these prolines are a bit too long. you can get the rear arms almost horizontal with the stock springs, but not below horizontal. I may have to buy the optional springs to get a little softer, or maybe use the front springs on the rear shocks.

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