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Originally Posted by panic-rev
(Post 10425954)
After reading this description, it sounds like any ol' SC10 4x4 and the new Hazard +3 wheels have the identical offset (that is, they both have +3mm). The regular ol' SC10 wheels however mention nothing about +3mm. They just say SC10 4X4 (the ad below actually does mention 3mm offset, but it's the only one. No other SC10 4x4 wheels do).
Since the Hazard +3mm is out of stock, just pick up any ol' SC10 4x4 wheel right? Am I the only one totally confused by this? Holy crap. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ack-2-SC10-4x4 Where I'm confused is with the proline kit. Seems as though it put's the standard stock wheels on the front to max legal width, but the rear's are the same as standard? So to be at max legal, I would need normal wheels up front and hazards in the rear? I just need to sit down with a ruler and figure this out as others have done. |
Originally Posted by panic-rev
(Post 10427437)
Thank you craigMBA for the right up on hex. I'm not crystal clear, but we're getting there. That helped. I am just going to buy the AE hub converion with Hazard +3. This is for sure what I want (ROAR legal width). I just don't wanna buy something else and screw it up.
I was told there was going to be no math when I entered my RC career :weird:. Haha!! |
Originally Posted by MaplestreetRC
(Post 10427573)
FWIW Panic, I just converted my SC10 FT fronts to the AE hex hub setup today, and sso far I dont like it.
More friction than the FT setup (Easy to tell just by spinning the front wheels), and the hex hubs dont snap or clamp on so they come off in your wheels, you have to worry about losing the pins, etc... Just a first impression, but I fear that my laziness in not wanting to pop the bearings out of my wheels after every run is going to result in inferior performance and just as much hassel.:( You going to out at Glitch any time soon? I'll show you options on hexes so they don't pop off. I have a few different ones. |
Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 10427690)
Yea any sc104x4 wheel works on the hex conversion. I actually like the stock wheels, but not the tires. The hazards add the +3mm offset to both the AE & jConcepts adapters putting them both at max width.
Where I'm confused is with the proline kit. Seems as though it put's the standard stock wheels on the front to max legal width, but the rear's are the same as standard? So to be at max legal, I would need normal wheels up front and hazards in the rear? I just need to sit down with a ruler and figure this out as others have done. |
Hey all, about to pick up a FTSC10 kit, any must-haves I should order with it? Also, any spares recommended out of the normal? I'll be ordering it with extra shocks, arms, maybe towers, turnbuckles/ends, diffs, etc. But if there's one "thing" I need to have lots of, what would that be?
I've read a lot of various wheel recommendations, anything on that? Lastly, I'll probably be running it with an RSPro/8.5 combo (because I already own it), what pinion/spur would you recommend? It will likely only ever be raced on indoor clay. Thanks in advance. :) |
Thanks for the info.
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Originally Posted by J_Bone
(Post 10427716)
Hey Bert. My son runs the stock RS hexes and I'm going to run it as well. I have the ProLine kit and it has it's draw backs too. The axle sticks out more and The steering arm hits The a-arms. It will stick my servo and burned up one because it couldn't return to center.
You going to out at Glitch any time soon? I'll show you options on hexes so they don't pop off. I have a few different ones. |
Originally Posted by heavyjeffd
(Post 10427799)
Hey all, about to pick up a FTSC10 kit, any must-haves I should order with it? Also, any spares recommended out of the normal? I'll be ordering it with extra shocks, arms, maybe towers, turnbuckles/ends, diffs, etc. But if there's one "thing" I need to have lots of, what would that be?
I've read a lot of various wheel recommendations, anything on that? Lastly, I'll probably be running it with an RSPro/8.5 combo (because I already own it), what pinion/spur would you recommend? It will likely only ever be raced on indoor clay. Thanks in advance. :) |
Originally Posted by MaplestreetRC
(Post 10427926)
The RPM front bumper conversion is pretty much a must have. Most guys I talked to told me to get that first on my FT. It just gives your chassis so much extra protection on what is probably the weakest point on the truck. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXYVK1
I have gone through 3 in the last 3 weeks. Bert W3 on Friday night? I am taking the 1/6th on the track :) |
Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 10427690)
So to be at max legal, I would need normal wheels up front and hazards in the rear?
The Hazard wheels weren't out when I started racing the 4w, and neither was the AE hex conversion, so I kind of got stuck with a box full of Rulux wheels and nearly new tires. |
Originally Posted by CraigMBA
(Post 10428286)
I run Rulux with a 1.5 mm spacer in the front and 2.5 mm in the rear. I have about .5mm of shims between the bearing and the roll pin to get me the rest of the way out. Jconcepts hexes in the back and front (exactly the same as the Proline ones).
The Hazard wheels weren't out when I started racing the 4w, and neither was the AE hex conversion, so I kind of got stuck with a box full of Rulux wheels and nearly new tires. I have a full set of barcodes on hazards and relux, then one pair of pressure points on hazards. I'll run hazard barcodes all around on the 4x4, then on 2wd the relux barcodes up front and hazard PP's in the rear. Since i'm using the proline kit on the 2wd that should put both trucks at full width correct? |
Originally Posted by MaplestreetRC
(Post 10427926)
The RPM front bumper conversion is pretty much a must have. Most guys I talked to told me to get that first on my FT. It just gives your chassis so much extra protection on what is probably the weakest point on the truck. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXYVK1
+1 on the bumper kit. I would also say pick up a pack of RPM ball ends as well, for sure (1 pack will do the whole truck): http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRB06 As far as wheels go, that's really a personal preference. Most guys on here seem to like running 12mm hex wheels (the F.T. kit comes with the pin and bearing type wheels). So, if you want to convert your F.T. to hexes, check out page #575 of this thread, about 1/2 way down the page Brent701 has all of the necessary part #'s listed for the conversion. I also have converted my F.T. to hexes. I would say that it is a nice upgrade to have, but isn't 100% necessary, more of a secondary upgrade/preference type thing. And lastly, as per your question in your posting heavyjeffd, I wouldn't say there is anything you "should buy lots of". I mean you could buy lots of parts, but I doubt you'll ever use them. This truck is a veryyy solid truck and will withstand a lot of abuse. I bought this as my first indoor track racer, and have had it since last year, and after MANY gnarly wrecks... I've still never broken a single part. These things are great trucks. Well, good luck, hope it all works out for you :) |
Im just getting my son and myself into SC10's (We have raced a few other off road classes and VTA for years). I got us both FT trucks. What is the major benefit (if any) of the front hexes? I cant think of any good reason personally since they just free spin anyway.
As for extras to buy, every RC I ever get I pick up an extra set of front and rear arms, hubs and caster blocks usually. As for caster blocks I wait till I find the set up that works best so I have the right back ups. Nothing sucks more then breaking on race day and not having part to fix it, and those are usually what breaks most on any rc car/truck. |
ebay is your friend for spares, picking up parted out vehicles gives you a nice variety at a good price.
I would suggest picking up the rear swaybar set. Really made a difference on my vehicle indoors. |
Originally Posted by MaplestreetRC
(Post 10427916)
Goin to Glitch tomorrow forsure. See you there?
Originally Posted by CraigMBA
(Post 10428286)
I run Rulux with a 1.5 mm spacer in the front and 2.5 mm in the rear. I have about .5mm of shims between the bearing and the roll pin to get me the rest of the way out. Jconcepts hexes in the back and front (exactly the same as the Proline ones).
The Hazard wheels weren't out when I started racing the 4w, and neither was the AE hex conversion, so I kind of got stuck with a box full of Rulux wheels and nearly new tires. |
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