Thanks Brian. I have added all the parts (i think) and should be good to go!

Would these lock nuts be ok?

Dubro Locknuts 8-32
Dubro Locknuts 4-40


What tool would you use to tighten them? Pliers?


Ahhh this is doing my head in.... hahaha.

the front wheel nuts need to be low profile ones

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXATKF&P=7

according to the sc10RS Manual

The rear hub carriers work well as an aluminum piece. Just make sure you pin it like on the Racers Edge carriers and it will remain slop free for a long time. I've got an aluminum U brace that seems to work well on my T4.1. There is plenty of good to be said for the resiliency of plastic for things like caster blocks, A-arms, and steering knuckles.

There is a driver on here somewhere who has his car decked out just about completely in aluminum. I'm not sure if he is a racer though. I think he was doing some high speed runs with his buggy if I recall correctly.

Thank you for the reply bds.........

Servo Saver Options
 

Need to replace my servo saver. Should I get anything other than associated? Main application is racing. Thanks

I bought some of the new Avid aluminum steering bellcranks. Pretty hot!

I've used this one and like it alot. http://www.toadzrc.com/aluminum-stee...c10-b4-t4.html

Just don't forget to locktite all the bolts. I forgot to locktite one and lost the bolt and bushing. Which I can't find the bushing. Customer service is horrible.

I am currently using the HR Racing servo saver setup. I have had it installed on my F.T. for about 2-3 months now, and have had decent results with it. Here's the link if you want to check it out: http://www.toadzrc.com/aluminum-stee...c10-b4-t4.html

The Avid rack seems to be a popular option now as well. http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...ccesories.html I looked at the Avid rack a few months back, and decided against it because of its solid 1-piece design. It would obviously work well if your a really good driver, as a major accident while using the Avid rack could put some undue stress on your servo, or possibly the servo horn. On the upside, you will have less slop in your steering. But as I am a more amateur driver, I decided on the HR servo saver because it eliminates much of the slop you see in the stock setup, and also still has a 2-piece design which utilizes a spring in the middle to absorb any shock from a major accident.

It really all boils down to how good your driving skills are and how comfortable you are with your vehicle. Let us know what you end up doing and how it works out for you :)

Hey Cloaked, just a heads up if you plan to switch your rears to hexes as well. I switched all four corners of my truck over to hexes and within my first run had issues with the rear bearings burning up and coming apart. I know this doesn't happen to everyone, but it does to some. If I were you, I'd just look them over after your first run or two with the hexes on. If you do have problems, there is another model of AE rear hub you can install that has the same size inside bearing but a significantly larger outer bearing then the stock SC10 hub carriers. I did this upgrade to my truck and never had another issue with the bearings again. I have the part #'s written down if you need them then, I can't remember what they are off the top of my head.

Depends on your servo as well. I'm running a Savox Ti Gear servo and haven't had any issues. Hard hits for me seem to pop the steering links before stressing out the servo.

I'm at the shock building stage of the kit build now.

Just wondering what is a good piston/oil setup to start with? Should I do the kit setup from 09 that's in the back of the manual that says front 30wt with #3 piston and rear 30wt with #1 piston?

I will be on technical tracks that are medium sized.

in general I feel that the times when I see it posted to use the same oil weight front and rear out of the stock manual was to save on including a second bottle of oil.

I would say look at some of the setup sheets online and give one a go you feel closely mirrors your track conditions.

I have the Avid rack in my truck and it is a great hop-up. I ran a glued stock rack and was no were close to being as reactive or able to hold a line like the Avid. No problems with my servo yet and have not popped any ballcups. Do have RPM's on my truck.

I can not comment on the hexes being hard on rear bearings. I put the aluminum hubs in when I built my truck with the hexes. I did have them drilled and tapped for a setscrew. Them seem to get sloppy quick if you do not.

Like Cain posted, go to the AE site and check out some set-ups. I run Due's set-up with the following changes: 31mm front and 30mm rear ride height, Avid rack, Kyosho X shock o-rings, J-Concepts Hi-Flo body, and hexes with Hazard wheels. Seen a lot of people run Mayfields set-up also.

I would suggest if you are going to do a solid steering rack setup, I personally would use a heavy duty plastic servo horn. I think even some of the newer AE ones are thicker than what was before from what I can tell as the horns I have snapped were an older design.

And besides, snapping the horn is better than the servo.