I bought some of those last year from my LHS. The only thing I'm not crazy about on them is that the contact patch is not as wide as the spur gear. It is maybe 2/3 as wide. I haven't had a problem with them stripping spur gears yet though so maybe it isn't as crucial as I think it is. FYI I'm running a Mamba Max Pro with a 4 pole 5700, gearing 16/87.

These are what I use and they are great! The "6 Packs" are a great deal too! $14.99 for 6 gears. Thats $2.49 each!

http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...98&filter_cat=

yeah they are new and the track does not have much dust only a light coating, Thanks man.

Best motor esc for sc10
 

I have an sc10 ft kit i am about to build and i was wondering what the best 8.5t motor and esc combo would be.

Also i will be running at a 1/10 track and a 1/8 scale and was wondering if 8.5 would be the best choice to be able to run both tracks

I have all these except the battery in the rear position and the tires. Is this what could be causing this?

My mmp has the punch control turned up to 70% . Try stiffing the front shocks up .When you go around a turn and punch the throttle the weight of the truck has to transfer from the front to rear really fast. So if you can keep the front from loading up the the wieght to the front it won't have to travel to far to the rear when you get on the gas. Tires are a really big problem though I never even try stock tires on a race truck. The stock sc10 tires are horable.

I love my revtech 17.5 on a 1/8th scale track feels better than my 10.5 and 13.5 nemesis motor. And I use the mmp esc it will run up to 6s and almost any motor made.

All the set-up in the world cannot make up for the wrong tires. What surface are you running on? Try to figure out what tires the fast guys are using and get some. Battery position effects weight transfer during launch/accel and can also affect corner traction. I don't like the battery all the way back against the shock town so I created a foam pad that has a whole for the additional weight that I added and creates a set back for the battery of 20mm. This is about as far back as I go or my car will slide out too much.

Front and rear weight balance is tricky, it's not as simple as more weight in back, more rear traction and more weight in front, more front traction/steering.
If there is too much weight in the back, it can actually make the truck loose because it creates a pendulum effect, and if you have too much in front it can actually make the truck push because mass in motion wants to keep going in the same direction. There are a lot of other variables too like spring rate, shock oil, camber, camber link length and ballstud spacers. You can drive yourself crazy trying to fine tune all these little details. What I've found that works best is tires always first. Find the best tires for the surface you are running on. As we say in full size car racing "tires are 90% of your setup". After you get tires working good, go to springs and shock oil. After a while of experimenting you will have a feel for what lighter/heavier springs and oil does and you will learn what surfaces like what combination. Tuning with weights is one of the last steps and I only recommend adding weight after you have hashed out what tires, springs and oil. Chances are there is someone at your track that has already done the research and could tell you exactly what to run, but half the fun in this sport is figuring it out yourself! :)

As my posting tag implies , I am new to all of this and was wondering if a few of you could answer a question for me.

Does anyone use the Integy aluminum suspension arms for their SC10? Is there a benefit to it? Or do all of you not recommend using aluminum parts at all, or only in some areas?

If so are there any alum parts you recommend using?

Thanks in advance for any replies.......

first thing, identify why you feel you need aluminum arms.

If its for durability, you are just transferring the impact force to another part. Also, if you tweak the aluminum arms, now it becomes a hunt to determine exactly why your vehicle is handling poorly.

If you need durability, go with the RPM a-arms. They will not handle as well in a racing situation, but will give you the durability you need.

Personally I feel the stock a-arms are actually pretty good compared to the stuff the original T4 used for a-arms. used to have piles of those broken.

Aluminium suspension arms? NOOOO. Only aluminium I use is what's stock on the factory team edition. Being new you need to spend your money on practicing at the track. That's the best way to sharpen your driving skills. Being new should get the kit and build it yourself so you get a understanding on how the truck works and how everything goes together. Nothing like building your own kit.

Well I put a Reedy Sonic 9.5 motor in it and the thing is squirley even with gold barcodes, I figured the aluminum arms in the front and back would give some more weight and stability to the car, along with the alum front hinge pin brace and bulkhead.......... Plus I am a machinist, all I see is metal through my eyes, lol

We use weight to mostly balance our cars. Should look into a stickier compound tire or change the suspension setup. Pull up the sc10 ft manual and reset everything back to stock and make one change at the time. Also look into buying the factory team spring kit for the front and rear.

I was going to do it, I almost bought a Lucas Oils SC10RS Combo from AMAINHOBBIES.com but my finger slipped and I ordered the following from TowerHobbies.

• LXEV21 RPM Long Shank Rod Ends (12)
• LXFDU5 Associated Factory Team Titanium Turnbuckle Set Blue T4
• LXYVK1 RPM Front Bumper Assembly Black SC10
• LXZTJ4 Associated 1/10 SC10 Factory Team Kit
• LXAPZJ Novak Havoc Pro SC/Ballistic Brushless Sys 13.5T/3300kV
• LXZZD1 Futaba 3PL 3-Channel 2.4GHz FHSS Transmitter/Receiver
• LXUZ80 Hitec HS-5645MG Digital Ultra Torque Metal Gear 2BB
• LXSF70 Associated Factory Team Green Slime
• LXSGB8 Associated Silicone Differential Fluid 5,000
• LXAXGA AKA Racing 1/10 GridIron SC Soft w/Red Insert
• LXBRAD AKA Racing 1/10 Cyclone SC Wheel F/R SC10 4x4 Black
• L5DUS102 Associated Body Clips Metallic Blue Short
• LX2932 Associated Body Mount Large Washers Truck (4)
• LXWWA5 AKA Racing Premium Tire Glue
• LXAPDU Associated Silicone Shock Fluid 37.5 Weight 2 oz
• LX3310 Associated Silicone Shock Fluid 35 Weight 2 oz 1
• LX3306 Associated Silicone Shock Fluid 40 Weight 2 oz 1
• LXAPDR Associated Silicone Shock Fluid 32.5 Weight 2 oz

And because Im an International Customer I get like $170 bucks off :D

Why? Im old school and have build 7 Tamiya kits when I was a Teenager and figured, I would learn the ins and outs of the car better if I put it together myself. Means I can also set it up exactly how I like it, and I know what to change.

So yeah, did I order enough LOL!