I think those are the ones mg buddy picked up. They worked fine in his 8.5.

Only $3.69 for 17t-21t pinions. Seems like a steal to me so I bought a set last week to try.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ion-Gear-Set-5

Anyone?

Those are them. They held up to the first race so far.

There are a few things to try. Laydown shocks more, heavier oil, stiffer springs and you can adjust camber links to adjust roll center. Longer link (without changing camber) and raising inner ball stud does a lot.
I'm on my phone and don't have the link for what you need. Its a web page that describes setups and what adjustments do what. Maybe someone call help out and link ya.

I took me alot of tuning and time to figure this out . Your rear camber links put them in the last hole on the hub link farthest from the truck, and reset camber to where you had it . I run neg 1 degree . Take the rear hub pin out of the bottom and put all the shims , should be 2 , behind the hub putting the hub all the way forward. This will shorten the wheelbase and put more weight on the rear . Besides that I run a ball diff battery the whole way to the rear expo on my dx3s,and what I have my mmp set on and I have no rear traction issues .Oh and 3oz of lead sticky weights behind the battery tray.

I was wondering if anyone else has had any luck with Green compound Subcultures up front and caliber2.0 M4 up the back, as that is the only tires i have at the moment and i am still not running hexs so i cant switch them front to back, No matter what setup changes I try or setup sheets I try My truck is what most would call undrivable!!!! Fully loose as off power. I am not running any drag brake, nothing is binding, have rebuilt the truck ten times or more with gear diff, ball diff, battery middle, forward, back, almost ever setup sheet and changes posible, with weights, no weights etc etc....

I run on a out door hard pack track with loose dust on top, and in a hot climate.

Could Super softs be to soft and the calibers be folding over and the fronts be generating to much grip???

I agree with Mojoman here. I have done very similar changes. Longest rear camber links, hubs forward, 3 oz. in rear of battery tray and batter in mid position or rearward. Tire selection is also critical too. Shocks settings can also play a big role. I am using green rear and red front springs with 30-35 wt front and 25-32.5 wt rear. Always have the rear softer than the front to help weight transfer to the rear on acceleration. Then throttle control is the next biggest item. I use Expo on the radio a lot to control the feel of the throttle and provide some part throttle control with my 7.5t Ballistic motor I just installed with 18/87 gearing and no timing. My SC10 2wd FT ran really well last Saturday on a blewn out track. I used Proline Bowfighter rear tires with JC Hazard wheels and was able to outrun the local 8th scale buggy guy!! I have never felt the kind of rear traction I had. I fell in love with the car all over again!

Calibers are good once you've got em worn to the base pins. If they are new they won't hook up on hard pack w dust. M4 are to soft for +80f ,I've had better luck with m2 if its hot out. Try some blockades or snipers in m3 or m2 depending on temps.

M3 blockade on Jconcepts hazard +3 is what I use on hard pack clay with dust and they work great.

I think calibers work better when there is light dust on hardpack and the depth of the dust isn't greater than that of the tread. once the tread gets filled or if the dirt is wet enough to cling to the tire then calibers loose all grip.

after more then a year my sc10ft cvd's are wearing out, wich are stronger MIP or asso?

I use the ones with the snap ring not the grub screw and just rebuild the. Use the 3/16th rebuild kit.

Stock Hard Tyres.
 

Hi Guys

Had a theory and thought I would ask to see if anyone has had already attempted this before I start heating up my blade.

The stock tyres and well known for their suckyness, the compound is to hard, the tyres have no side bite, yada yada yada!

When I raced downhill we somtimes cut our tyres to suit conditions ie: if it was hard back but out still wanted side bite you would use a hot blade to cut the centre lugs for less rolling resistance or if it was really grippy and you wanted the tail to be a bit loose you would cut every 3rd lug on the side wall to make it less aggressive when you leaned it over.

Has anyone tried this on the stock tyres? Say remove every 2nd lug on the side wall see if we can get it to bite a lil more?

Just thinking....

If anything, for running on clay I would cut or wear them down then sauce the crap out of them till they are nice and soft. Then they might do ok.

Both are good, but I have had better luck with MIP cvds. Even with the plastic retaining ring. I also use MIP outdrives after eating up my associated ones in one month.