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-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

Jeauxkor 02-05-2012 07:47 PM


Originally Posted by Lake Ober (Post 10282873)
Here is a link to the aluminum Hot Racing steering servo saver set that I currently have installed. It eliminates a lot of the stock slop, but still gives me the safety net of a servo saver.

http://www.toadzrc.com/aluminum-stee...c10-b4-t4.html

I have a pretty beefy servo on the truck. My girlfriend races it and is not the smoothest driver. Lol, im gonna try the shrinkwrap thing first. If that doesnt cut it them im going the aluminum route. Thank you both for your input! I drove the truck a little Saturday. Took a minute to get the finese down but the truck is dialed!! Love associated rigs!

Ryno B4.1 02-05-2012 08:21 PM


Originally Posted by Jeauxkor (Post 10282507)
One more question, i glued my servo saver and it definitely improved the steering, however, i had two dnf's due to the servo link ripping the ball ends off of their little turnbuckle. Whats the fix for that?

Stop hitting stuff and you will be just fine

Jeauxkor 02-05-2012 08:59 PM


Originally Posted by Ryno B4.1 (Post 10283455)
Stop hitting stuff and you will be just fine

Eureka!!! You my friend are a genius!! Now all my rc questions are answered. I will be a pro in no time thanks to your well thought out and extremely helpful advice. Guess im done with this thread. Sincere thanks to the guys that actually offered useful information.

brent701 02-05-2012 09:55 PM


Originally Posted by Jeauxkor (Post 10283693)
Eureka!!! You my friend are a genius!! Now all my rc questions are answered. I will be a pro in no time thanks to your well thought out and extremely helpful advice. Guess im done with this thread. Sincere thanks to the guys that actually offered useful information.

He has a point though.

If you need to keep the ball cups on better get RPM Ball cups.

I have only broken anything due to hitting something.

Jeauxkor 02-06-2012 01:23 AM


Originally Posted by brent701 (Post 10283944)
He has a point though.

If you need to keep the ball cups on better get RPM Ball cups.

I have only broken anything due to hitting something.

He does have a point, a very useless point. If you read the posts you would see that the ball cups arent the issue. I bought this truck to get my fiance into offroad. She drives it, she crashes it. Our track is on an old skating rink floor with wooden jumps and various obstacles. It is high grip, high speed and very unforgiving. I didnt realize I was dealing with 2wd sc pros that never crash. Im no newb and dont need any advice from captain obvious. Im wasting my time. Peace! :flaming:

Lake Ober 02-06-2012 04:20 AM

What a great song :smile:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-n1W6_L1ZOg

Lake Ober 02-06-2012 04:25 AM


Originally Posted by CHIZZLE (Post 10283268)
Can somebody tell me the parts/part numbers needed to convert to hex wheels on all four corners? Thanks.

Check out page #575 of this thread. Brent explains it in detail about 3/4 of the way down the page. It is post #8624 :)

Jeauxkor 02-06-2012 05:37 AM


Originally Posted by Lake Ober (Post 10284716)

Lol

Ryno B4.1 02-06-2012 05:43 AM


Originally Posted by Jeauxkor (Post 10284385)
He does have a point, a very useless point. If you read the posts you would see that the ball cups arent the issue. I bought this truck to get my fiance into offroad. She drives it, she crashes it. Our track is on an old skating rink floor with wooden jumps and various obstacles. It is high grip, high speed and very unforgiving. I didnt realize I was dealing with 2wd sc pros that never crash. Im no newb and dont need any advice from captain obvious. Im wasting my time. Peace! :flaming:

The point is that if she is a newer driver and still learning glueing the servo saver is probably not the best mod for her. A newer driver will benefit from the forgiveness the servo saver gives

CHIZZLE 02-06-2012 06:57 AM


Originally Posted by Lake Ober (Post 10284728)
Check out page #575 of this thread. Brent explains it in detail about 3/4 of the way down the page. It is post #8624 :)

Thank you.

deftones4012 02-06-2012 07:05 AM


Originally Posted by mdutcher (Post 10283073)
Yeah, something like that! I did not know what to 'google' on and maybe that is why I am missing it. Thanks for showing me that.

So, this should be something that I can remove the existing tabs and then use these, correct?

Yup!!

CHIZZLE 02-06-2012 07:59 AM

With the JConcepts aluminum hex adapters and Hazard wheels, does that make the rear end over the ROAR limit? JC claims the Hazard wheels bring the width right up to the ROAR limit but I think that is with the RS hexes. Anyone know?

brent701 02-06-2012 08:01 AM


Originally Posted by CHIZZLE (Post 10285467)
With the JConcepts aluminum hex adapters and Hazard wheels, does that make the rear end over the ROAR limit? JC claims the Hazard wheels bring the width right up to the ROAR limit but I think that is with the RS hexes. Anyone know?

It will be very close. Also want to make sure the body covers the tires from looking down at the truck. I am not sure if that will be checked here or not.
I have 3 sets of them If you want to check them out at Warehouse 3 when you are there again.

CHIZZLE 02-06-2012 08:14 AM


Originally Posted by brent701 (Post 10285483)
It will be very close. Also want to make sure the body covers the tires from looking down at the truck. I am not sure if that will be checked here or not.
I have 3 sets of them If you want to check them out at Warehouse 3 when you are there again.

Hmm. Yeah none of the club racing is gonna matter but the Cactus Classic and I think Nitro Challenge they'll have "the box" to check widths.

Lake Ober 02-06-2012 08:19 AM


Originally Posted by CHIZZLE (Post 10285467)
With the JConcepts aluminum hex adapters and Hazard wheels, does that make the rear end over the ROAR limit? JC claims the Hazard wheels bring the width right up to the ROAR limit but I think that is with the RS hexes. Anyone know?

I personally have a Factory Team version with the JConcept aluminum adapters in the rear and Hazards on all for corners. I have not began racing with this truck yet, but I mentioned to the owner about the wheels on my truck and he said that I will most likely not be able to race with it because of it's width. However, it wasn't measured by the tech yet, so I can't say 100% for sure or not. I am going there to practice tommorow though, so I will have it measured while im there, and will let you guys know what he says. I am gonna be SOOOOOOO ticked if they are to wide! :flaming: I literally just bought and mounted my new JConcept Barcodes on these Hazards 2 weeks ago, and am gonna be pissed if I have to shell out $70 to do it all over again on 0 offset rims.

As far as where the tires go on the body, the fronts are inside the body when the shocks are not compressed, and are still inside the body when the shocks are fully compressed. The rears however, stick outside the body about 1/6 of an inch on each side when the shocks are not compressed, and are inside the body when the shocks are fully compressed. I have a good feeling I am going to be buying new tires and wheels next week. Grrrrrrr :mad:


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