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Originally Posted by Jeauxkor
(Post 10282346)
So I can use any wheels for the sc10 4x4? Im looking on ebay but scared to buy anything until im sure what fits.
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One more question, i glued my servo saver and it definitely improved the steering, however, i had two dnf's due to the servo link ripping the ball ends off of their little turnbuckle. Whats the fix for that?
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Originally Posted by Jeauxkor
(Post 10282507)
One more question, i glued my servo saver and it definitely improved the steering, however, i had two dnf's due to the servo link ripping the ball ends off of their little turnbuckle. Whats the fix for that?
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Originally Posted by Jeauxkor
(Post 10282507)
One more question, i glued my servo saver and it definitely improved the steering, however, i had two dnf's due to the servo link ripping the ball ends off of their little turnbuckle. Whats the fix for that?
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Originally Posted by AlanHall
(Post 10279493)
do you just use AE rings?
Originally Posted by AlanHall
(Post 10279505)
If the inner rear ball stud is lower.. wouldn't that stick the rear end? Or does it need to be lowers with the shorter hub carrier too?
Originally Posted by Nightjus
(Post 10281480)
I am experiencing alot of body roll on the truck. I have 8mm of shims in the shocks. Red springs up front blues in the back. 35wt front 30wt back. I ran high bite clay and it feels very twitchy to drive. Any solutions?
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Originally Posted by Lake Ober
(Post 10282556)
Can you elaborate? I'm just a little confused. I assume you are talking about the turnbuckles that attach to the front caster blocks? And are you saying that the ball ends are popping off of the black ball studs or that the ball end threads are actually coming out of the turnbuckle threads?
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Originally Posted by Jerm13
(Post 10282559)
Unglue the servo saver:lol:
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Originally Posted by Jeauxkor
(Post 10282766)
Im talking about the little link from the servo to the bellcrank. Its pulled the ball ends off the threads.
Did this issue just occur during driving, or did it happen during a bad wreck? I honestly am not sure what to tell you on this one, but maybe someone else may have an idea :confused: I personally considered buying the Avid steering set http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...ccesories.html(a solid design with no servo saver spring), but decided against it as I was worried that I am not a skilled enough driver yet to eliminate the spring and risk the force of a wreck getting put onto other steering components. Rather, I opted for an aluminum Hot Racing set that is more similar to the stock design, but eliminates A LOT of the stock steering slop. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Jeauxkor
(Post 10282507)
One more question, i glued my servo saver and it definitely improved the steering, however, i had two dnf's due to the servo link ripping the ball ends off of their little turnbuckle. Whats the fix for that?
I had this problem once also. I put shrink tubing over the whole linkage and then just cut the holes out for the ballstuds. Haven't had a problem with it since. Hope that helps. |
Here is a link to the aluminum Hot Racing steering servo saver set that I currently have installed. It eliminates a lot of the stock slop, but still gives me the safety net of a servo saver.
http://www.toadzrc.com/aluminum-stee...c10-b4-t4.html |
Battery strap question
I don't like the battery strap setup and was wondering if there is another option available for my SC10. The reason why I am asking is that some of my packs are thick and it makes it quite hard at times to turn those locking 'wing nuts.'
I have seen other car setups where the battery strap is being secured by bolts/screws were something where you can just screw them in by hand or something. Is this option for us? If so, I must not be finding such a thing in my search. |
i used these when i had mine.
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/1787/ |
Originally Posted by deftones4012
(Post 10283036)
i used these when i had mine.
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/1787/ So, this should be something that I can remove the existing tabs and then use these, correct? |
Originally Posted by drhodes1989
(Post 10282862)
I had this problem once also. I put shrink tubing over the whole linkage and then just cut the holes out for the ballstuds. Haven't had a problem with it since. Hope that helps.
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Can somebody tell me the parts/part numbers needed to convert to hex wheels on all four corners? Thanks.
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