Yes, try some green barcodes. I have used them on clay with good result... Orange is more for high temp outdoor blue groove. Also, referring back to your post on springs, try green out back and silver in the front, I never have had very good luck with green and blue, but green and silver seem to be a better balance for me.. :tire::tire:

cool thank you will give it a try

What are you guys doing to stop the Torsional Flex?

Example: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Fiber-Top-Deck

The Flex on this thing is insane, and mine's a FT Kit. I thought the Carbon Chassis would solve it. Heck no. I keep hearing how guys put that brace on their Kyosho's (PRCR) and they can start driving them like 2wd Buggies and fall in love with them.

What are we doing? Anything?

I dunno. Buy I notice my battery strap fits so tight I figure it tweaks or supports the chassis some. I dunno if promatch uses bigger cases or what. But it puts the strap in a fever bind when I tightened the thumb screws

Thanks man. Tower sells them as soft. And that how JC marks the package. So I assumed they were a step over greens.. like the blues that just came out. So now jc has two tires labeled soft...I used paragon on them and softened them alot.

Has anyone ever cut off the left and right side of their rear bumper with a dremel before? The best guy at my LHS did it to his LOSI XXX-SCT, and made me curious. Then, I saw it done again on an FT SC10 here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...es-extras.html

I thought it might help (and looks cooler IMO), b/c it wouldn't hit the ground as easily when landing from a jump weird... and also my body has cracks on it on each side, where it appears it is hitting the left and right side of the bumper. Let me know if anyone has done this :)

yes, i have chopped mine. just used some snips and removed the sections with the mud flaps. not so much about hitting the ground, but it was destroying the body.

my FTSC10 came with those parts cut off.

It does save the body from getting damaged back there.

I trim my rear bumper to help save my bodies. The stock size bumper does a number on the tail light sections of bodies...tears it up on the very first run. And you don't have to use a dremel. Just some wire snips should cut right thru the plastic.

I did it so the mount would stop tearing up the body. On my 4w, it's helpful to let the body deflect a little more when you get that "Losi Push".

Was successful on the first part, not so much on the second part.

Sounds great... I'm gonna Dremel it off right now then. I'm glad to see others had problems with it screwing up the rear of their bodies as well, and it wasn't just me. I ran my new body 2x with the stock bumper, and now I had to shoe-goo 6 different spots on the rear. Hopefully this will help:D

Kinwald made some side plates that screw to the chassis. I built some, and it knocked the deflection down, but...my truck didn't handle any different.

Frankly, I think velcroing the sides of the body to the nerf wings may do more to help this than anything else. It's got tons of leverage, and the load path is already there - all you have to do is connect it. And the truck stops sounding like you kicked an empty 5 gallon bucket when it lands off jumps.

Winning ......



Hey Craig !!!
Those plates you see are only for ballast ...;)

These trucks are so light I don't think it's going to flex enough to make a difference.

I agree. Their effect on torsional stiffness was minimal, all they did was add weight, so IMO there can't be another rational reason to use them.