I like them on carpet and dry clay, prefer barcodes on wet clay

SAE screws
 

Hey will a standard metric drill bit set (1.5mm - 3.5mm) work well enough to put this truck together with the stock SAE screws? Ordered the RCScrewz metric kit, but it's not going to arrive in time for my first build. I would really like to use my screw gun if it's close enough

THanks

I've been Tryin to work on mine with metric stuff and it sucks! Some screws you can use the 2mm on .. but that's it.

Thanks, may have to stop by the hardware store and pick up a SAE kit. Sucks cause I have nice Align hardened steel tips (the long kind) and I have the metric kit on the way, but need to get it put together tonight. :flaming:

tools
 

I know the feeling, I have a full set of Hudy metric that has been relegated to the real tool box as the race box can't use them anymore

the tread pitch will be different. so when you put the metric in you will really be crossthreading your plastic parts.

With the RCScrewz? Thought they were supposed to be the same but with different heads.

I've never seen a screw with a metric head and standard threads. Im not sure where RC would be buying them. I work at a fastener distributor and have never seen that. But I guess its possible.

yeah, I asked trick parts about that and they said the same thing.

So will it f'up my plastic if I use standard then switch? I guess i'm screwed for any of the metal threaded parts.

Says nothing about that on their site: http://www.rcscrewz.com/product_info...oducts_id/3493

If it is the case I'll just return for a refund and buy new tips.

What a pain.

can anyone suggest a good starting point for gearing a non boosted 17.5 on a medium indoor clay track? never run non boosted before until this weekend:D

Im going to assume that they are off the shelf metric parts. And they expect it to be understood. And if they were special metric heads with stock style sae threads then they would definitely mention that. But,the threads might not be very different. I can check on the thread gauges tomorrow and see.

Thanks. Not all of us are experts on screws. Dude at the hobby store said that they were the same screws but with different heads. Seeing as this is a kit labeled for this specific model, I expect them to work well. If I wanted off the shelf screws I would have gone to a hardware store and saved myself like $20

So, I moved my battery all the way back to help with acceleration out of the turns, but I REALLY didn't like the way it jumped. Ended up cutting the foam and moving it 1/2 way back to the front. I realize that will help jumping, but hurt with my rear traction issue.

Do any of you guys add weight to the middle of the SC10, just to make it weigh more?

I *think* more weight will help settle it down and maybe help with acceleration. I don't want more weight in the back because of the jumps. Doesn't make sense to add weight to both the front and back. So I'm thinking of just putting weight right in the middle.

I'm running on a medium sized outdoor track with a Tekin 8.5, so I'm a bit overpowered.

75/26 and play with timing on the endbell from there. i personally have full timing on the can at that gearing, 150F after 6min