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-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

cschroedersc10 03-22-2012 08:41 PM

yes, it does it on both sides, but the front is perfectly fine, and yes it with the shocks completely off.

Lake Ober 03-22-2012 09:03 PM


Originally Posted by AlanHall (Post 10504589)
I never liked how the m8 and m11 cover over your left hand and not a fan of the drop sown wheel. So I have the mx3x and its never missed a beat and im really happy with it.

I use the MX-3X as well. It is an excellent control at nearly half the price of some of the higher end models. I've been using it for almost a year now, and have no plans of changing radios anytime soon.

jmc5313 03-22-2012 10:42 PM

What is the proper gearing for a 3900kv sl 540?

ozzy-crawl 03-22-2012 11:13 PM


Originally Posted by AfterTithes (Post 10501856)
Oz,

Some of the RS and Sc10's had a smimming issue that caused the diff to click at speed. I called AE and they sent me a rebuild kit free. I only installed two washers (shims) and the clicking went away. Just a thought....

A.T.

Bit of a update.
pulled diff out again to have another look, found there was shims on drive cup shaffs but on the outer side of diff. by removing them it allowed for another shim to go under the drive pin.
Diff now sounds as smooth as :D

justinmahn 03-23-2012 05:59 AM


Originally Posted by cschroedersc10 (Post 10504607)
this might be off topic but my rear arms bind up all of the time, ive put new hinge pins in and it didnt fix it, new ball cups...didnt fix it, new ball studs...didnt fix it, not sure what else to try, any ideas?


Pop off the camber link at the wheel hub, so you can see which joint is sticking. Then just whittle or sand it down until it no longer binds.

If it's the ball cups, you can put baby powder in them and work them out on the ball ends untill they unbind. Clean them out when you're happy. Make sure your ball ends aren't screwed so far in that they poke into the ball cavity.

Also check for bent hinge pins.

Check to make sure the antisquat/toe block is squarely seated.

Honestly it's just a process of testing each joint individually until you find the culprit.

Murray100 03-23-2012 06:29 AM

Gearing Question
 
Installing my 3300 ready motor into a rustler. Rustler has a 90T spur and the motor has an 18T pinion. Stock pinion/spur setup on sc10 is 18/87. Robinson website said gear ratio for 18/87 is 4.83 and for 18/90 is 5.0. Will 18/90 be lower geared than 18/87? How will temps compare between 18/87 and 18/90. Thanks guys.

kc_nitro_rc 03-23-2012 06:51 AM

Anyone using the JR Mitch setup on their SC10? How do you like it compared to the stock setup?

kc_nitro_rc 03-23-2012 06:55 AM


Originally Posted by Murray100 (Post 10505769)
Installing my 3300 ready motor into a rustler. Rustler has a 90T spur and the motor has an 18T pinion. Stock pinion/spur setup on sc10 is 18/87. Robinson website said gear ratio for 18/87 is 4.83 and for 18/90 is 5.0. Will 18/90 be lower geared than 18/87? How will temps compare between 18/87 and 18/90. Thanks guys.

You might ask someone in the Traxxas thread.

It all depends on the final drive ratio. What is the ratio of the tranny gears? Most likely you'll be fine. Gearing to the moon gets you in trouble.

Kuya_Kimo 03-23-2012 07:20 AM


Originally Posted by Murray100 (Post 10505769)
Installing my 3300 ready motor into a rustler. Rustler has a 90T spur and the motor has an 18T pinion. Stock pinion/spur setup on sc10 is 18/87. Robinson website said gear ratio for 18/87 is 4.83 and for 18/90 is 5.0. Will 18/90 be lower geared than 18/87? How will temps compare between 18/87 and 18/90. Thanks guys.

Also want to note that the brushed version of the Rustler does NOT have bearings but uses bushings so there's more heat build-up there.

Without all the details, you're going to have to do some trial and error. Try it for 2 minutes, temp your truck, 2-3 more minutes etc. Hopefully you have some extra pinions. Good luck!

Murray100 03-23-2012 07:38 AM


Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo (Post 10505986)
Also want to note that the brushed version of the Rustler does NOT have bearings but uses bushings so there's more heat build-up there.

Without all the details, you're going to have to do some trial and error. Try it for 2 minutes, temp your truck, 2-3 more minutes etc. Hopefully you have some extra pinions. Good luck!

Can you tell me where are the bushings that you are referring to. I replaced bushings with bearings on the rear wheels. LHS said newer rustlers have metal gears in diff. thanks

jmc5313 03-23-2012 11:06 AM


Originally Posted by jmc5313 (Post 10505030)
What is the proper gearing for a 3900kv sl 540?

Is there a gearing chart?....Right now I'm using stk 18p 87s....

Tate72 03-23-2012 11:17 AM

Going to pick up an RC10 TK tonight. I have had a XXX SCT for a bit now and figured I would give the RC10 a try and see if I like it better. Most that I know like it better.
So I guess I'll find out. Can't wait to try and race it.

luigib646 03-23-2012 01:07 PM

Sc10 team factory kit for sale
 
I got sc10 2wd I put it all together went to the track drove 5-6 laps and I don't like it. It's like brand new


I'm look for a Losi 22t

Sc10 factory kit roller $200

Revtech 17.5 motor 6 laps on it $50

Pm me for me info

Mizchief 03-23-2012 01:51 PM


Originally Posted by luigib646 (Post 10507209)
I got sc10 2wd I put it all together went to the track drove 5-6 laps and I don't like it. It's like brand new


I'm look for a Losi 22t

Sc10 factory kit roller $200

Revtech 17.5 motor 6 laps on it $50

Pm me for me info

Wow, you might want find a Losi 22 to test drive to make sure you like it before dropping another $300 :weird:

Riv2SC10 03-23-2012 03:02 PM

Wow, indeed...

You might want to post that in the for sale thread, not here.


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