Thanks Guys

I cant post the link to the ones I found for the RPM ball cups (not enough posts), could somone send me the link on Towerhobbies so I know I ordered the right one?

Im going to get the Associated SC10 RS Pro Comp 2.4GHz RTR and run it as is and then start making the changes but will order everything at the same time.

Also ordered some JConepts Rulux wheels to go with the Goosebumps.

First changes will be to make the front end a bit stiffer and avoid breakes and to also make the rear a bit more grippy with some 40wt shock fluid in the front and 35 in the rear.

Cant wait to get this baby going.

13.5!motor
 

What is the proper gear ratio or pinion for a stock spur on Tekin 13.5 paired with the RS? With and without boost???

Going to need it for race tomorrow cause my other truck broke

Ok, this sounds like a real basic question. What size drill bit do you use to drill the 4th hole on the rear shock tower? How do i make it a threaded hole for the screw or is a threaded one not needed?

Thanks. I guess it's such a basic mod.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEV19&P=7
these are the short ones
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEV21&P=7
These are the long ones

I prefer the long ones as the turnbuckles doesnt bend or break as easily,some may disagree, just my opinion.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFDU5&P=ML
Also i reccommend these as an instant upgrade. Just one of those upgrades for strength.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBAHF&P=ML
To verify,you got these ones right?The RS version needs the 12mm hex wheels.
Let us know how it goes:)

Mayfield's set-up is now posted on the AE site from the Cactus.

Thanks mate appreciate it, yep those are the wheels I had selected and I have added those Turnbuckles and Long Shanks.

I don't remember the size off the top of my head, I just took a spare tower, found a bit that fit snug in the hole. Then I bolted it to the other tower using existing holes so that I could use the farthest out hole on the spare tower as a drill bit guide to drill the 4th hole. Worked like a charm. It does not need to be threaded, the others are not.

Im about to drill the fourth inner hole on rear tower, but it looks as if the shock top cap will hit the tower when its done???? any ideas

I'm getting brown outs on my setup now. Will this help prevent this? I'm thinking something is wrong with the BEC on the esc. It's a Mamba Max Pro. I've tried with an Ace 1313 servo and a Hitec HS-7985MG.....both under load....or not even attached to the truck....and when I turn the wheel hard back and forth a couple of times the servos stops and the green light will go out then blink on the receiver and then reset. This does not happen if run it off of a receiver pack in testing.

Adjust your end points so you aren't overtraveling. Even with servo not attached to the car, the servo will reach its end point and brown out the MMP.

It's not the endpoints. These are nowhere near maxed out.

Pinion 20-25
Spur 84 or 81.. some are using the 87

Check temps after 2 mins than what ever your heat's mains times are.


Mine are geared for a 5 min main/heat. we went 7 mins last week and the motor got hot lol

I didn't have any problems with that.

its the built in bec in the MMP, they can not deliver enough power for some servos. either buy a spektrum glitch buster (as you posted),or make your own its a 4700uf 10 volt cap. solder a old servo/extension on the wires (+ and -) plug in to rx.
or run a external bec (ubec) make sure do disconnect the positive from the esc,s bec if using a ubec.

You have a good eye. I drilled a 4th hole along the same virtual line as the other three holes and the shock cap hits the tower so I can't use it. It's a matter of a couple millimeters. :flaming: