it was origionaly a std kit that been fitted to 85% ft parts. when i was told by seller and the list,which i cant remember was all the main stuff. it has the ball diff and i prefer the ball diff tried gear diffs on road and only like them up front with thick oil:nod: so since this is a 2wd i stick to the ball diff. i have purchased the mip diff and carbide ball to insure i have a good diff avaiable it seller didnt keep his up to snuff. it dont have the conversion hexes up front . does this matter since my other truck i race is the losi scte4x4?
going to be running a novak 8.5 and gtb in it lookin to gear it to a 18/81 i think.we have 2 different tracks we race a 1/8th scale large jump track that hardpacked w/ loose sand out of grove, other is intended for SC realy bumpy small bumps/jumps track stays moist and it hard loomy dirt

Besides switching over to RPM arms as needed, are there any durability issues that need to be addressed with the SC10 RS. Ball cups, transmission, etc.

Thanks

Here's some pics of my Factory Team SC10. Running a Brushlesshobbies.com 120amp pro esc and a venom 9.5T sensored motor.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/100_4160.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/100_4161.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/100_4162.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/100_4163.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/100_4164.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/100_4165.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/100_4166.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/100_4167.jpg

Nice love the solid colour look

Here is mine
http://www.heberger-image.fr/data/im...6_IMGP9233.jpg
http://www.heberger-image.fr/data/im...2_IMGP9256.jpg
http://www.heberger-image.fr/data/im...2_IMGP9205.jpg
http://www.heberger-image.fr/data/im...4_IMGP9207.jpg
http://www.heberger-image.fr/data/im...1_IMGP9209.jpg

The body is a Losi SCTE body I found in a garbage in a local track :lol:. It was pink originaly. I just repaired it with shoe goo, drilled some holes in it and added grills. Bought a white spray can, covered the exterior of the body, bought a standard fluorescent can you find everywhere (it's not for lexan) and finally used a coat of PS-55 for a matte look. Costed me 7$ in total. I cut the rear too that was cracked everywhere

Nice looking truck! Just a tip, you may want to trim your rear bumper down with a Dremel. Otherwise, your nice new body is gonna get all busted up on the back end. I trimmed my down, and it works great now... unfortunately the damage had already been done to my body :nod:

http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/4...0507104007.jpg

(sorry the picture looks so terrible, I had poor lighting)

Or you can keep your protection and cut the body......

Yes, that is true :D I will say though, even without the left and right sides of the bumper, there is still lots of protection. I mean, I suppose that cutting the bumper will leave the rear a-arms more exposed, but I have never had any kind of issue with them. But that's what makes this sport unique... to each their own ;)

The thing is lexan with no support and a rear pressure will crack for sure, especially in this area. In racing you often touch from the rear so I would rather be safe than sorry

I like the look of mud flaps...

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...vNurse/005.jpg


http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...urse/001-1.jpg

I destroyed a body in two races flat before I cut the bumper down.

The last body I painted lasted six months before I replaced it, and only because I was bored and wanted to try something different. It's totally usable.

I posted this on the B4.1 thread, but it has value here so I'm going to repost it.

Some AE V2 shock users have complained about excessive leaking. The stock spacer (the black one between the o rings) is too large. You can fix this by either finding the white spacers from the V1 rebuild kits, or by sanding the black spacer down .015 (to .125" total length).

Good luck!

I think you need to pick up some new front tires :nod:

Believe it or not, those worn out tires actually work really well on my local indoor track... But I am picking up some other tires this week!

I used to have problems breaking the body in the back as well....until I cut my mudflaps off. Since then there has been a night and day difference in body breakage. So far I feel as though there has been zero durability issues, and I have been racing that way for over one month now twice a week with two trucks.

I am running a 13.5 motor with a 22/75 setup (8.9 FDR). Temps are 140 after five minutes - just right.

The track I run on dries out in the afternoon and I get a lot of wheelspin off the tight turns. However it does have a fast, long straight. I was thinking of turning down the throttle EPA to manage the loose-off condition but am afraid I will lose speed on the straight. Any advice?

never mind the tires, what about the rear camber? :weird: