Yes, the Avid hex adapters that everyone is talking about on here will work great for you --> http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...ccesories.html. You can run the RS wheels on them, and it will not change your width. Also, JConcept makes aluminum hex adapters (wouldn't recommend at all), and AE make plastic hex adapters (the same ones that are on the RS) which are a bit cheaper then the aluminum ones --> http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ter-Set-SC10RS. If I were you, I would just go with the Avid ones, only $17 for all four of em', and they sound very promising :nod:

As far as the shocks go, the ones on the F.T. truck are significantly better then the shocks that come stock on the RS version. The F.T. shocks are V2's and are threaded (for easier adjustments), and have bleeder caps on them (for simple shock bleeding). In addition, they are very easy to build. Many owners of the SC10RS will often install the V2 shocks on their trucks because they are a very useful upgrade. Here is the product listing, just incase your interested:

Fronts:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ront-Shock-Kit

Rears:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Rear-Shock-Kit

Wow sweet shocks! But they are over 90 bucks for the front and rear. Add in springs and you are easily over 100 bucks. Ouch.

Anyone have any opinions on the SCRD alluminum chassis I have? Came with the truck when I got it.

i have a question. I have a non FT Sc 10 that i want to switch out the gear diff to a ball diff.

Is there still the problem of the ball diff not fitting?

Not at all.

Stormer Hobbies https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=RPM70902

Where should my gearing be for a 17.5? Manual recomends 28 pinion / 75 Spur, but thst seems to low. So what are you thoughts?

I would also like to know if there is a way to stop a gear diff from leaking.

I've got a few SCRD chassis. I like them a lot. They are heavier than the stock chassis and put the weight down lower. They don't have a lot of room for electronics and the stuff isn't very well protected but I still like the chassis.

That about right for a starting point. Run it and see how it feels. Gear up or down from there as your motor and ESC allow.

Differential Questions
 

After searching thru many threads, I am still confused on the differences between a gear diff and ball diff. Trying to determine if a ball diff will improve my lap times. I currently run a shimmed gear diff with black grease. Other than being able to kinda adjust the ball diff without having to remove it from the truck, is there any real difference between the two? The reason I say "kinda able to adjust" is because it is critical that the ball diff not slip if you loosen it while it is in the truck. Is there a way to confirm it is not slipping after loosening without having to remove it from the truck? If the only true difference between the 2 type diffs is adjustability, I will probably stick with a low maintenance gear diff and experiment with different weight diff oils. I race on a large indoor high traction track and am thinking about using 3000 weight diff oil. Would like to get suggestions on what weight diff oil to use on my type of track (SDRC in San Diego). Also like to know about leaking gear diffs and solutions if I use diff oil vs black grease. Thanks

I prefer ball diff myself. It is easier to adjust and rebuild. As far as rebuilding a ball diff; it is not complicated and I wear out my outdrives before my ball diff needs to be rebuilt. For a high bite, I would have a tight ball diff. They are clean and don't have grease or diff lube leaking out for a messy cleanup.
If you prefer the gear diff, you will have to deal with the leaking and take back apart to cleanup and refill the diff as well. Grease will not give you substantial diff action. You should start with 5000wt and see how it runs. From there you can change it if it is to thick or to thin. You will need to find what you like for your driving style.

I run 7k in mine on a high bite technical track and It's real close to the feel of a tight ball diff. I put a very small bead if silicone rtv around the gasket and it doesn't leak a drop. If it leaks around the outdrive replace the orings and grease them up good when you install them. You can use black grease or I prefer green (teflon) grease. I've gone between both diffs in this and other vehicles and prefer the gear diff because I feel its more durable.

A quick question for you guys:

When I first built my F.T. back in December of last year, I installed the Savox-0252MG servo in it, with a Spektrum "glitch buster" --> This One After installing this setup, I never had any issues with glitching or brown-outs.

Recently, I decided I wanted a faster servo, and picked up an infamous Savox-1258TG. After installing it, along with my Spektrum "glitch buster", I keep getting a "glitching" sound from the servo (even when it is on, but at rest). There is no twitching going on, but just noises. I am assuming this is now occurring b/c this servo draws a larger amount of power then my previous one. So, should I pick up a Castle external BEC --> This One to solve this problem?

Also, if I do need the Castle BEC, what output voltage should I set it at with my CastleLink... 5V? Any knowledge would be appreciated. Thanks



Yep, I agree, it is expensive. That is one of the main reasons, why when someone asks what kind of SC10 they should get, the RS or the Factory Team, I would typically suggest the F.T. Unless someone is very young and just planning to play around with it, the F.T. will cost more up front, but will give you a truck that you can use even at a professional level. I mean, R/C is something that people usually start doing just to see what it's like, and end up loving it, and wanting to move on to better stuff. The F.T. kit not only allows you to build it exactly how you want it (and forces you to learn the in's and out's of your truck), but also has many upgraded parts that will help with the overall performance of the truck.

Hmmm, I think I may need to pick up a FT kit, and build it up with my SCRD chassis...

With a MMP you should always use the BEC. You don't need to set the actual ESC voltage since it wont power anything. Set the BEC voltage to what you need for RX and servo.