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-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

J_Bone 04-30-2012 09:11 PM


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10674925)
So I always set up my shocks with 0 rebound. But it never fails the Monday after a race weekend I check over everything and the shocks have anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 rebound. I used green slime when I built them. This happens on both my SC10 and the B4.1 v2 shocks. Is this normal? Should I bleed them before every race to maintain 0 rebound?:confused:

0 rebound? Are you referring to when you push the shock all the way in without springs and it comes back out?

elex300 04-30-2012 09:17 PM


Originally Posted by J_Bone (Post 10674961)
0 rebound? Are you referring to when you push the shock all the way in without springs and it comes back out?

Yes, When I first build them and do this it might come back out 1 or 2 mm. But after a weekend of racing it comes out anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 of the shaft length.

J_Bone 04-30-2012 09:26 PM


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10674989)
Yes, When I first build them and do this it might come back out 1 or 2 mm. But after a weekend of racing it comes out anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 of the shaft length.

Yeah, it's air that has gotten in there to displace the oil that has leaked out.
I know it's frustrating to most, but if you really think about the tolerances and the size of these, they are pretty good. I have yet to have a RC shock not leak. Of course, the bigger the shock the less they do leak. Most people don't realize that they have nicked the shaft and it will tear the o-ring, even brand new ones and then the oil will leak out even faster.These shafts are exposed a lot and can easily get nicked with all the roost form other trucks, your own truck and even crashing. Shafts should be inspected on a regular basis too.
SO, you just might have to bleed and refill every race. I do it before each Main.

elex300 04-30-2012 09:40 PM


Originally Posted by J_Bone (Post 10675026)
Yeah, it's air that has gotten in there to displace the oil that has leaked out.
I know it's frustrating to most, but if you really think about the tolerances and the size of these, they are pretty good. I have yet to have a RC shock not leak. Of course, the bigger the shock the less they do leak. Most people don't realize that they have nicked the shaft and it will tear the o-ring, even brand new ones and then the oil will leak out even faster.These shafts are exposed a lot and can easily get nicked with all the roost form other trucks, your own truck and even crashing. Shafts should be inspected on a regular basis too.
SO, you just might have to bleed and refill every race. I do it before each Main.

Yeah I actually have been bleeding them before each main. I just was'nt sure as a race goes on and the air works its way in if it makes it handle differently. Or should I just leave it and run it? I will stick to bleeding before the mains for now.

Brian L 05-01-2012 06:59 AM


Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta (Post 10674826)
I'm pretty sure he's referring to the spacer that goes between the 2 o-rings.

It doesn't affect compression/rebound.

You are correct. The white spacer is thinner than the black one that comes with the V2 shocks.

J_Bone 05-01-2012 07:28 AM


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10675077)
Yeah I actually have been bleeding them before each main. I just was'nt sure as a race goes on and the air works its way in if it makes it handle differently. Or should I just leave it and run it? I will stick to bleeding before the mains for now.

the only time it should handle differently is if too much air gets inside and the piston is no longer being dampened by oil.


Originally Posted by Brian L (Post 10676241)
You are correct. The white spacer is thinner than the black one that comes with the V2 shocks.

The black spacer should hold the o-rings in better by applying more pressure on the o-ring to create a tighter seal. I have noticed most guys at the track who have a higher than normal oil leak, have nicks on the shaft.

Lake Ober 05-01-2012 11:09 AM

Hey guys,
I'm currently running the Savox SC-0252MG servo in my F.T. truck, and feel like the steering isn't quite what I would have hoped it would be. I know that it has a speed of .19 sec and a torque of: 145oz-in. I have been looking at the infamous Savox SC-1258TG though, with a speed of .08 sec. and a torque of: 166oz-in. I am veryyyy frugal and hate to spend more money then I need to (I know, kinda funny I got into RC cars :lol:) But, is there definitely going to be a real significant difference from one to the other? I am assuming so, given that it appears the 1258 is more then 2x as fast, but I just thought I'd ask. In addition, I plan to remove my aluminum bellcrank (that has a saver spring in it) out of the truck, and install an Avid solid bellcrank... should I definitely put the 1258 in if I am going to use that? Thanks for any input!

Tim3 05-01-2012 11:13 AM

My SC10 in Action
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=qkuST8N0XGs

Lake Ober 05-01-2012 11:17 AM


Originally Posted by Tim3 (Post 10677247)

That's a pretty sweet track! Did you construct it? I like how it look's like its out in the woods, seems like a great place to relax, drink a beer, and drive some RC! :D

Bubonic-X 05-01-2012 11:26 AM


Originally Posted by Lake Ober (Post 10677228)
Hey guys,
I'm currently running the Savox SC-0252MG servo in my F.T. truck, and feel like the steering isn't quite what I would have hoped it would be. I know that it has a speed of .19 sec and a torque of: 145oz-in. I have been looking at the infamous Savox SC-1258TG though, with a speed of .08 sec. and a torque of: 166oz-in. I am veryyyy frugal and hate to spend more money then I need to (I know, kinda funny I got into RC cars :lol:) But, is there definitely going to be a real significant difference from one to the other? I am assuming so, given that it appears the 1258 is more then 2x as fast, but I just thought I'd ask. In addition, I plan to remove my aluminum bellcrank (that has a saver spring in it) out of the truck, and install an Avid solid bellcrank... should I definitely put the 1258 in if I am going to use that? Thanks for any input!

I would put the avid bellcranks on first .19 sec is a little slow but should not be that bad. your torque on that servo makes up for it. If the servo breaks it most likely will be gears which are way cheaper than the cost of a new servo. And thats only if your in severe crash.
You will be amazed at how much slop the stock bellcranks have. Not so much the bellcranks but the spring.
And if you really want to be frugal pickup some JB Weld and glue the servo saver together.

J_Bone 05-01-2012 11:39 AM


Originally Posted by Lake Ober (Post 10677228)
Hey guys,
I'm currently running the Savox SC-0252MG servo in my F.T. truck, and feel like the steering isn't quite what I would have hoped it would be. I know that it has a speed of .19 sec and a torque of: 145oz-in. I have been looking at the infamous Savox SC-1258TG though, with a speed of .08 sec. and a torque of: 166oz-in. I am veryyyy frugal and hate to spend more money then I need to (I know, kinda funny I got into RC cars :lol:) But, is there definitely going to be a real significant difference from one to the other? I am assuming so, given that it appears the 1258 is more then 2x as fast, but I just thought I'd ask. In addition, I plan to remove my aluminum bellcrank (that has a saver spring in it) out of the truck, and install an Avid solid bellcrank... should I definitely put the 1258 in if I am going to use that? Thanks for any input!

that's slow for me. I like mine to be at least .10 and I run the stock steering with the spring cranked tight. I've had no problems with it.

Brian L 05-01-2012 11:58 AM


Originally Posted by J_Bone (Post 10676383)
the only time it should handle differently is if too much air gets inside and the piston is no longer being dampened by oil.


The black spacer should hold the o-rings in better by applying more pressure on the o-ring to create a tighter seal. I have noticed most guys at the track who have a higher than normal oil leak, have nicks on the shaft.

You don't want to squeze the o-ring to much. Have about 100 packs through the white spacer and Kyosho x-ring with no leaks.

bds81175 05-01-2012 02:36 PM


Originally Posted by J_Bone (Post 10677352)
that's slow for me. I like mine to be at least .10 and I run the stock steering with the spring cranked tight. I've had no problems with it.

I agree, 0.19 is pretty dang slow, especially if you are racing on a tight indoor track.

J_Bone 05-01-2012 03:00 PM


Originally Posted by Brian L (Post 10677443)
You don't want to squeze the o-ring to much. Have about 100 packs through the white spacer and Kyosho x-ring with no leaks.

Right, don't want to squeeze to the point that it distorts the o-ring.
Are the kyosho o-rings a different size? Maybe a little? I may try those kyosho ones after I replace my shafts.

Brian L 05-01-2012 03:23 PM


Originally Posted by J_Bone (Post 10678186)
Right, don't want to squeeze to the point that it distorts the o-ring.
Are the kyosho o-rings a different size? Maybe a little? I may try those kyosho ones after I replace my shafts.

I don't know if they are a different size. They are more square on the edges. I think that is what makes them good and with the X in them, may provide 2 seal spots rather than one. Look at a set and you will see what I am talking about. They cost more than standard rings, but I think they are worth it. I see some on-road guys also use them in other brand shocks.


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