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-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

z50king 04-28-2012 10:02 AM


Originally Posted by carlosm (Post 10663736)
Hey guys total noob with this Electric stuff... I have another question..

I'm putting my FT kit together and have questions about the Tires and Wheels that came with the kit..

1. Are the front tires that come with the kit worth gluing up? Or should I get something different for the rims... I'll running on two different tracks one is indoor hard pack clay, the other is an outdoor dry packed surface blue groove..

2. I know there is a hex conversion for the rear wheels.. but the kit comes with the roll pin type wheels... should I toss the wheels and get some hex type wheels?

3. Do the other brand wheels (AKA) come as a hex type?

4. Should I just buy the AE plastic hex conversion kit or is there something better you'd recommend for the hex conversion...

Thank you

Throw those front tires away. They are garbage. Save the rears for when you need the?
? Find out what people are running at the tracks you are going to.
I would assume some type of barcodes, suburbs, or other clay tire for the indoor clay. The outdoor blue groove track would depend if the line is kept clean or not. It could be a lot of different tires that work there

I have been running the roll pins for years, and I have never spun a rim. You need to keep your wheel nuts fresh every month or so. If you dont replace your wheel nuts they will back off.

Idk, i dont run hex.

J_Bone 04-28-2012 10:20 AM


Originally Posted by carlosm (Post 10663736)
Hey guys total noob with this Electric stuff... I have another question..

I'm putting my FT kit together and have questions about the Tires and Wheels that came with the kit..

1. Are the front tires that come with the kit worth gluing up? Or should I get something different for the rims... I'll running on two different tracks one is indoor hard pack clay, the other is an outdoor dry packed surface blue groove..

2. I know there is a hex conversion for the rear wheels.. but the kit comes with the roll pin type wheels... should I toss the wheels and get some hex type wheels?

3. Do the other brand wheels (AKA) come as a hex type?

4. Should I just buy the AE plastic hex conversion kit or is there something better you'd recommend for the hex conversion...

Thank you

1. No
2. Yes, hex front and rear. Front conversion: buy http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inum-Locknut-5 , http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Set-SC10RS and http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...xle-Set-SC10RS.
Then add these for hexes front and rear...http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...ccesories.html

3. Wheels; http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ack-2-SC10-4x4 , http://www.avidrc.com/product/2/whee...-B-wheels.html and http://www.glitchrc.com/proddetail.php?prod=DERSCTAWB. All 3 are +3mm offset.

4. Avid are the best so far! I've tried Proline, Jconcepts, and these. http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...ccesories.html.
And you will not need to shim the hexes. They bolt right up and fit perfectly!

carlosm 04-28-2012 10:48 AM

Thanks for the Reply guys!

Acill 04-28-2012 10:05 PM

So I got a set of Proline Powerstroke shocks from a friend and put them on my SC10 using the universal kit for them. I wasn't to sure about them at first and just got home from the first race night on them. Its an indoor slay track. I have to say these are some awesome shocks. They felt fantastic. The only thing I don't like about them is the front site a bit high. Im thinking going to a single spring up front will get the ride height normal but just went with it. Fastest I have ever been!

http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/s...0/IMG_1118.jpg

Brushless420 04-28-2012 10:24 PM


Originally Posted by Acill (Post 10665798)
So I got a set of Proline Powerstroke shocks from a friend and put them on my SC10 using the universal kit for them. I wasn't to sure about them at first and just got home from the first race night on them. Its an indoor slay track. I have to say these are some awesome shocks. They felt fantastic. The only thing I don't like about them is the front site a bit high. Im thinking going to a single spring up front will get the ride height normal but just went with it. Fastest I have ever been!

http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/s...0/IMG_1118.jpg

Ditch those RPM arms. Seriously the RPMS flex way to much and eventually will be bowed all to hell. Youll like those shocks even more with a more rigid arm IMHO.;)

Acill 04-29-2012 06:48 AM

Yeah I am starting to agree, I don't like the arms, and am actually in the process of switching them out today for the ones on my T4.1

FORT-26 04-29-2012 05:19 PM


Originally Posted by Acill (Post 10666629)
Yeah I am starting to agree, I don't like the arms, and am actually in the process of switching them out today for the ones on my T4.1

So, I've seen that most guys prefer the stock arms for performance purposes, but let's discuss all the tweaks to the stock arms that make a difference....

---honing out hinge pin holes?
---lube(graphite, oil, etc...?
---shim spacing?

ETC.......

:nod:

nadan805 04-29-2012 05:55 PM


Originally Posted by FORT-26 (Post 10668601)
So, I've seen that most guys prefer the stock arms for performance purposes, but let's discuss all the tweaks to the stock arms that make a difference....

---honing out hinge pin holes?
---lube(graphite, oil, etc...?
---shim spacing?

ETC.......

:nod:

Carbon arms, no honing unless they bind, no lube, short wheelbase for meee

FORT-26 04-29-2012 06:33 PM


Originally Posted by nadan805 (Post 10668753)
Carbon arms, no honing unless they bind, no lube, short wheelbase for meee

Are the carbon arms produced by AE only?

z50king 04-29-2012 07:42 PM


Originally Posted by nadan805 (Post 10668753)
Carbon arms, no honing unless they bind, no lube, short wheelbase for meee

No one really runs carbon arms anymore. Even the pros run the plastic now. I see pros running the carbon in very hot conditions when the plastic starts to flex too much.

I just run old hinge pins that have the black stuff rubbed off. They never break.

jstump 04-30-2012 09:03 AM

i absolutely hate the v2 shocks no matter what i do i cannot get them to no leak, looks like these proline shocks are the way to go.

Acill 04-30-2012 10:03 AM


Originally Posted by nadan805 (Post 10668753)
Carbon arms, no honing unless they bind, no lube, short wheelbase for meee

I actually just installed a full front and rear set of carbon arms I didn't even know I had. Its much more stiff. I can't wait to get it on the track this weekend now. Im also debating if I should put on the carbon front and rear towers I also have. The front will bolt right up, the rear will need some holes drilled for the screws on the top of it to mount the bumper brace.

Are the carbon towers worth it, or is the flex from the stock ones a better feel? I know after I converted my XXX-SCT to all carbon I had to change my driving style a lot and just ended up getting rid of it in the end.

Acill 04-30-2012 10:06 AM


Originally Posted by jstump (Post 10671490)
i absolutely hate the v2 shocks no matter what i do i cannot get them to no leak, looks like these proline shocks are the way to go.

They felt fantastic, I really had my doubts while it was on the bench, but the first lap I took with in during practice shocked the hell out of me. The only complaint I have is the preload up front. Even with the shock collar all the way to the top it still sits a tad bit high. I want to see about getting just a single spring setup and just run the collar lower to make it sit perfectly.

Krio 04-30-2012 10:14 AM

Anybody think it's worth hitting up jconcepts over a front aluminum clamping hex adapter that arrived cross threaded? Stripped out just turning the screw for the first time.

I'll probably just get a set of avid adaptors.

Bdabuck 04-30-2012 10:22 AM

May as well, Out of eight jc hexes, four are bad threaded. Need to try something. Yes, even with longer bolts. That don't matter if the threads are bad.


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