Do those Losi 1 degree rear hubs take the stock bearings or larger ones. Whats the p/n on the losi hubs. Thanks

whoa, that is going to do some weird things when you hit a wall. it may snap another part of the chassis instead of the neck. I dont really like that design. where did you purchase it?

after i watched these videos, i may not need the brace... :lol:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-6lqcumN5k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3R_mGE5ixas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FcXNLpxvpew

Brace keeps the front from breaking, not the rear :p

I have an extra one (brand new never used) that I can let you have for what I paid for it ($20 shipped).

The stock bearings will work. The part #is 9807. I would also get the bearing spacer #9941. You will also have to use losi hindge pins #2164 and drill your rear arms out to 1/8th.

chuck

I put RPM arms on the front, and I the truck is dialed. Feels weird to put basher stuff on my race truck, but.... :blush: I used to break front arms on my T4 just looking a pipe. GT2 are much better than the stock toothpicks, but I don't want ANY breakage during our 2 hour enduro races. :)

Anyway, my SC10 handled great the one time I got to race this winter, so no regrets for me :tire:

Is the sc10 that much heavier. Than the t4, that it needs better arms.

No, I actually think the SC10 is less in need of RPM arms because it the full body and bumper provides the front end some protection vs a 2wd truck.

IMO, the GT2 arms are good enough. I only went to the RPM because we do enduro races and I don't want to wrench on this truck at all if possible. AE should stop making the old style arms and switch over exclusively to the GT2 arm for all trucks.

I was wouldering cause I could go all year racing a t4. Ft an not break anything. With the sc10 I have head the chassis break and front arms break.

I used to run my T4 at the local outdoor track and never broke anything. But I also ran it indoors which was a hooked up "slicks-pink taper" track, and it had hard pvc pipes with a lot of 90 elbow corners, etc. It was really easy to catch a coupler or corner, and it could almost take a front wheel clean off the truck. :eek: That track was a serious front arm breaker, both buggy and truck.

That's where I broke an "unbreakable" GT2 arm on the first race day. And I tend to be a conservative, consistent driver who rarely breaks stuff. That day, not so much. :lol: I actually shot the gap where there was a shark tooth pipe, and took out both left side arms on my B4 in one shot! :D I think that's the only rear arm I've ever broke on a B4/T4

Damn I say so. I just pick up a used sc10 and novak gtb 5.5 system. I can't wait to take it too the track Saturday and Sunday for testing. I energy out and ft a bunch of the t4. Ft parts for it. And jconcepts body an rims and tires. I might pick up them rpm arms. I need some spurs.

i need a setup for sc10
 

I need a mod setup for a sc10 for an outdoor track. Or where do I go to get one?? I got some one t4 setups, do they work?

Does anyone know what thread pattern the standard servo is that come in the RTR kit?

Diff question for SC racers (Top finishers primarily)
 

Is the ball diff worth getting (MIP) or just leave it stock? I have two stock diff's a run a 2k filled for indoor offroad on the carpet, and a grease packed for outdoor racing. The ball diff I was considering for this summer for outdoor racing. Please only comment if you have tried both, Thanks!!