Running a sway bar is not going to solve your issues. Sway bars prevent weight transfer, which yields less traction. The most important aspect of getting your truck to work is to make sure you are running the right tires. All of the setup changes in the world are not going to do anything if you do not pair them with the right tires. Setup changes are just to alter the balance of the car, not to fix shortcomings in your tire selection. There is a tire that will work for that track, you just have to find it. Then make setup changes to alter the balance of the car. More rear toe, more anti-squat and moving the rear hubs forward will all help the truck square up on exit, but like I said, if you're not on the right tires, it will only do so much.

will it help a little? ive ordered some aka enduros to try. do you think they would suit? im stumped.

They work at my track ok, but you really need to see what other drivers are using at your track. Walk around and see what they use or ask them. Find the guy who's truck is hooked up and see what he uses.

there are only 2 of us running sc. one has the blitz. we are both strugling.

Gear diff leaking
 

Is there any tricks to stop the gear diff leaking?

I just recently rebuilt my gear diff, and changed the O-rings and the cover seal to new. I also applied some black grease to the O-rings and filled the diff with AE 5k silicone oil. After some 5-10 runs, most of the oil has leaked out. It seems that the oil escapes from the diff outdrives, not via the diff cover.

I could always change to ball diff, but I prefer the durability of the gear diff.

Look at what tires work on other types of vehicles, then copy that.

Any tips for removing the rear wheel pins? I have tried using pliers but the pin just refuses to move...

How much anti-squat should ya use ??? :confused: I need a little more rear bite off the turn. Any Help Thanks !

I'm sorry but we can't set your car up from where we're sitting. It's something you have to be there for, to see how the car is handling on YOUR track.

If you really want to get into tuning your car, then spend the time to learn it. It's a super lengthy process, but you really do have to try ALL the settings and see what works for you.

As a starter point, go to RC10.com and look at the setup sheets there. Follow them TO THE LETTER. Then pick a setting and adjust it in and out to see if it improves. Go through ALL the different settings. You'll start to learn what really makes a difference, and which settings are too subtle to notice.

Just from what you've posted, it seems like you need to move your battery further back, and shorten your wheelbase, 4* toe, and 2* anti-squat. If you start to wheelie then reverse the process one step at a time, and drive the car after each one change.

How much anti-squat are you running now?

2-anti-squat , 3.5-toe block , 0-hubs... I running a R.maifield setup... Also I'm running a vxl which is 3oz heavier than a novak 10.5.. Did'nt know if adding a little more anti-squat would help bit or hurt bit off the turns ? Battery is 3/4 to the rear.

Wow I've always wanted to see New Zeland, this just gives me yet another reason :D

I like running the lightest sway on just about all tracks unless really bumpy. I like having the tighter feel more than the soft & forgiving feel.

You may want to try tightening your diff as well. When you spin out does it look like just the outside wheel kicking up dust or both?

The way I tune my ball diff and slipper now is like this and it's been working well for me.
1. Find the toughest turn in regards to keeping traction on exit.
2. Start with loose diff tight slipper
3. Come out of the turn and hit full throttle to make it spin out
4. Tighten the ball diff till either both wheels spin out or I get too much push around the rest of the track
5. Then loosen the slipper until I can't make the short run-up jumps/sections
6. Adjust punch on esc, or expo on Tx, or travel limit on throttle, or just lay off the gas coming out of the turn to prevent spinning out.
7. Make the best measurements I can on the slipper nut distance from the end of the shaft and the amount of turn put on the diff so I have a good starting point next time I come back to the track.

To be honest, if I had a track like that I wouldn't even bother with 2wd SCT and would do either 4x4 1/10 Scale or 1/8 scale buggy.

Im gona buy a factory team sc10 and and i was wondering do you think the savox 1258 servo would be a good servo for it and the castle side winder combo
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...le-1410-3800kV
http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SC1258...avsc1258tg.htm
Or could u guys suggest anything better on both the servo and motor/esc combo for around the same price

hahaha i also run 1/8 ep with my losi 2.0 and mod 4wd buggy.