Im thinking of pulling the 87 spur I use currently and putting in my 84. With an 8.5 Tekin motor whats a good starting point for a pinion and the settings in an RS for a large indoor clay track? Im thinking 84/18 would work well with the motor can set to +12 or so timing?

I run my 10.5 with 20/84, so 18/84 sounds like a good starting point. Run it for 3-5 minutes and see how it's driving and check the temp.

Im running 20/84 with the same elctronics in bliny mode and stock can timing. Temps are usually 130 after 8 min mains and I live in FL 80 degrees plus weather.

Well, I ran my sc10 for the firs time this weekend. Ran a pretty standard setup with 3oz behind the battery, 4th hole rear, JC hex front and rear, avid steering rack, 35 front, 30 rear #3 FRONT AND #2 REAR, BLUE FRONT SPRINGS (caps lock), green rear, shock bottoms inward... etc. Here are the issues.

1) Gets a little air under the body and lands on the roof. I mashed the brakes just as I got air born and it would sometimes level out. Down siding was not possible.

2) I enter the corners fine but exiting with light throttle causes the rear to hook out.

3) overall the rear traction sucked. I tried 4 different type of tires i the rear and no affect, suburbs, snipers, bow ties and 1 other gridirons i think.

Things I tried. Reds front, silvers rear, rear shock bottoms outside. I lowered the body on the mounts until I hit the towers ( this helped the body and a little). Played with the slipper and relubed the diff and check the setting (1/8th back). Lengthen the rear rods with both washers and moving out 1 hole on the hubs. Nothing I did seemed to mater much at all. I could not even keep it straight at full throttle in the straight away with a 13.5 stock motor. I could visibly see one wheel kicking up dirt under acceleration. Hence the reason I looked at the diff. I would just like this thing to be a little more forgiving, its just so awful. Drove my b4 on the same track with old BK bars rear and rib up front and and no issues at all. Great traction all around. I bought the SC10 because it was built on the B4/T4 chassis, but I am not loving it like i thought i would. Could use a little help.

whats the track like, dry, dusty, smooth, bumpy, clay, wet... etc

also what front tires and inserts are you running & what battery position

what edition kit is it, and what slipper v1 or v2

Help with motor
 

I posted this earlier but then it was buried amongst the threads without being answered. I am hoping that someone has an idea of what is going on with it...


I picked up a Titan 550 reverse 21 turn motor for bashing and practicing with my sc10. Now my sc10 is stock with the xp sc200 esc and I am having serious issues with lack of speed. The thing just crawls and I have no idea why. I am currently waiting on a new stock motor to come in as I will be racing stock class but the fragility of it is why I went with a titan for bashing / practice on recommendation from the local hobby shop. Any help or advice would be very much appreciated.

Factory team.. Outside clay that is watered and swept.. The stock inserts with the mu snipers.. V2 slipper

I have a couple of quick questions;

1) What is everyone's preference, when it comes to look, fit and durability,
with the hex 3mm offset wheels? J Concepts, DE, Proline

2)What A-arm material is best for handling? plastic or carbon?

3) Does anyone know what is mounted on the chassis deck of Kinwald's ride in these pics? http://events.redrc.net/event-galler...own/?nggpage=8

Sorry guys for all the questions, I tried searching thread, with little success.

Looks like either a material to increase weight or stiffness. Notice the one-off sway bars? Kinwald always has something going on!

I just built a SC10 Factory team but with the parts to use the 12mm hex wheels. But the rear wheels will NOT tighten down, because the shafts the wheels bolt to seem to be too long or the wheels themselves are too thin of material? Am I supposed to replace the rear axles also for the RS hex conversion?

Also I bought the JConcepts blue aluminum hexes, but they seem to be less than 12mm, because when the wheels are put on them, there is lots of play, those Hexes are cut less than 12mm.

What parts do I need for the RS wheel hex conversion? Seems I totally wasted money on the JConcepts hexes.

No, the rear axles should be fine. What rims are you using? Are you sure you got the Rear hexes on the rear? Or are they Fronts?
The Jconcepts hexes are 12mm and have always fit snug for me.

RS parts that are required are 9880, 9881, 9882 & 4449. The same bearings will work.

My truck was very loose too. a friend suggested to use the rear outer shock hole and it fixed the issue for me (although it's against the pro setups). You can also try some weaker tires up front since your front seems to "overpower" your rears.

Make one change at a time. Look p JQ the guide for car handling troubleshooting.

Thank You, then I must have a bad batch of wheels (rims)
The stock Rims from the SC10 4x4.

Is the motor building up heat really quickly? If you take the motor out of the equation, is the drivetrain loose and smooth? I know its more questions than answers.

Anyone know if any of the MIP Bypass1 pistons will fit in the Proline Powerstroke shock bodies correctly? Im starting to think I may switch back over to my V2 shocks to get them installed if not. I hear great things about these pistons.