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Originally Posted by Acill
(Post 10730402)
Anyone know if any of the MIP Bypass1 pistons will fit in the Proline Powerstroke shock bodies correctly? Im starting to think I may switch back over to my V2 shocks to get them installed if not. I hear great things about these pistons.
I'm going to be running the Bypass1 shock pistons shortly myself. |
Originally Posted by RCNurse
(Post 10728980)
Looks like either a material to increase weight or stiffness. Notice the one-off sway bars? Kinwald always has something going on!
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Originally Posted by elex300
(Post 10730670)
I think he is testing the sway bars Jcon is coming out with for the front and rear of the SC10.:)
Had I known I could have asked him Saturday. He only raced buggy though. |
Originally Posted by DirtRacer68
(Post 10728908)
I have a couple of quick questions;
1) What is everyone's preference, when it comes to look, fit and durability, with the hex 3mm offset wheels? J Concepts, DE, Proline 2)What A-arm material is best for handling? plastic or carbon? 3) Does anyone know what is mounted on the chassis deck of Kinwald's ride in these pics? http://events.redrc.net/event-galler...own/?nggpage=8 Sorry guys for all the questions, I tried searching thread, with little success. |
Originally Posted by Brosho
(Post 10729516)
I just built a SC10 Factory team but with the parts to use the 12mm hex wheels. But the rear wheels will NOT tighten down, because the shafts the wheels bolt to seem to be too long or the wheels themselves are too thin of material? Am I supposed to replace the rear axles also for the RS hex conversion?
Also I bought the JConcepts blue aluminum hexes, but they seem to be less than 12mm, because when the wheels are put on them, there is lots of play, those Hexes are cut less than 12mm. What parts do I need for the RS wheel hex conversion? Seems I totally wasted money on the JConcepts hexes. Two options if you want to use AE wheels. Add shims to the axle between the drive cup and the bearing. Two or three should do it. or Use shims under the wheel nut. The other option is to use Hazard wheels, which will give you the wider track anyways. The JCON Wheel hexes are a good investment, the plastic ones break over time, and will fail. If you have my luck, at the worst possible time too. :) |
Originally Posted by Brosho
(Post 10729849)
Thank You, then I must have a bad batch of wheels (rims)
The stock Rims from the SC10 4x4. |
I just bought my kid the brushed 17t rtr model,I hear with the gearing that's on the truck it gets real hot,been so long since I ran sc I forgot what gearing I ran,what would you guys recommend gearing with this,mainly going to be driven at the park for now so be can learn
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Just got mine going its a converted FT . I got some tamiya wide hexes for a tto1 to do hex conversion on rear now nutz lock wheels on good.
My question is . Our track is a 1/8 track with sevrral 180deg turns track is hard packed but has about 1/8-1/4" of fluf on top and gets thicker as u get out of drive line. My truck has 3 oz added around front of battery tray and bettery is all the way back. I have a 8.5 no boost geared 21/87 clutch slips for 3-4' on hard launch from stand still but dont slip any if ur roling 5mph+. What tire would u hoose . And what adjustments could be made to keep rearend under control.? Using 30wt ae red springs i think in front /35wt ae in rear with green springs. Ive tried cityblocks in rear and a stock losi scte tire. I have also tried adding a second battery (lol) to see if the added weight would help ( it did but just a lil) |
Mitch over at M2C Racing is looking for feedback and any interest on some new pistons he may be willing to produce for those of us running the Proline Powerstroke Shocks. If you run these shocks, then you know we currently have ZERO options for pistons. These look like some awesome pistons. Send him an email and let hime know your interested!
M2C RACING http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/...R/DSC07801.jpg |
Originally Posted by mxracer458
(Post 10730980)
I just bought my kid the brushed 17t rtr model,I hear with the gearing that's on the truck it gets real hot,been so long since I ran sc I forgot what gearing I ran,what would you guys recommend gearing with this,mainly going to be driven at the park for now so be can learn
You can get one size smaller pinion gear if your worried.
Originally Posted by jlfx car audio
(Post 10731568)
Just got mine going its a converted FT . I got some tamiya wide hexes for a tto1 to do hex conversion on rear now nutz lock wheels on good.
My question is . Our track is a 1/8 track with sevrral 180deg turns track is hard packed but has about 1/8-1/4" of fluf on top and gets thicker as u get out of drive line. My truck has 3 oz added around front of battery tray and bettery is all the way back. I have a 8.5 no boost geared 21/87 clutch slips for 3-4' on hard launch from stand still but dont slip any if ur roling 5mph+. What tire would u hoose . And what adjustments could be made to keep rearend under control.? Using 30wt ae red springs i think in front /35wt ae in rear with green springs. Ive tried cityblocks in rear and a stock losi scte tire. I have also tried adding a second battery (lol) to see if the added weight would help ( it did but just a lil) Your shocks are backwards from mine. I run 35wt in front and 30wt in rear. As far as tires, cityblocks should be ok. I would try Jconcepts subcultures and see how those work. I like them for when the track is loose. But that's it. You can try to lay the shocks down a bit more, less anti-squat, and change up hub positions (forward or aft). It's going to be tough with tracks that are that loose. |
Originally Posted by J_Bone
(Post 10730796)
Rumor?
Had I known I could have asked him Saturday. He only raced buggy though. |
Originally Posted by mxracer458
(Post 10730980)
I just bought my kid the brushed 17t rtr model,I hear with the gearing that's on the truck it gets real hot,been so long since I ran sc I forgot what gearing I ran,what would you guys recommend gearing with this,mainly going to be driven at the park for now so be can learn
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Originally Posted by microrcdude
(Post 10732238)
If I remember correctly, the truck comes with a 16t pinion. I dropped mine down to a 15t and put the yellow slipper pads on it. The white plastic feeling slipper pads were rather inconsistent and causing odd temps.
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Everything is tight and well setup, just seems like the motor isn't getting enough power. t stays cool to the touch no matter how long it is ran.
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ok so my kids been putting his new sc10 brushed rtr around today,setting set the lowest he can go,every once in a while you hit the throttle and there nothing,give it a little push and it goes again,motor aint hot or the esc,I'm going to pull the brushes out but almost like a dead spot or something,what you guys think?i haven't had a brushed motor since the early 90s.This is brand new and is still on the 1st pack with the car (lipo),and yes its in lipo mode
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