Track was muddy today... now I have to clean it. GRRRRR

Thats not a track, you must have been racing on a swamp! I wouldnt have touched that track, lol

thats why io always use the jconcepts inner body

1. Take out electronics.
2. Put in dishwasher, start on "pots and pans" setting.
3. ??????
4. Take wife to dinner
5. Profit!

If you don't have any other wheels, sure. If you have a bunch of tires on Rulux wheels...not so easy.

Gearing all depends on the track. At my local track 21/84 is my favorite with 10.5. Find the longest straight. Pin the throttle and find where it hits top speed. If you reach top speed 1/4 way down the longest straight gear up. If you can't reach top speed and you're 2/3 near the end gear down. Try that for starters & see how it works for you.

Wouldn't it be easier to convert the SC10 to a T4?

Body 20.69
+ Chassis 23.59
+ front Mounts 2.00
+ rear mounts 3.50
+ battery strap 3.89
+ minibumper. 2.00
--------------------------
Total 55.67 from tower.

Wheels don't count. You'd have to buy new wheels anyway for your track.

I got a setup from a fast guy at the track for carpet over jumps if anyone is interested. This in a mod class.

For 10.5 I was running 18 / 84 but out track is pretty small. I may actually go with an 87 tooth spur and the same pinion or lower and make up the difference using boost.

One tip i have, the novak ballistics motors for some reason using standard motor screws I have now stripped 2 motor holes on different cans. I don't gorrilla tighten anything down, and never had this issue till recently. Went with slightly longer screws, and it threaded and tightened up fine even the stripped hole. I would recommend looking into longer motor screws.

Will the kyosho big bores fit on the sc10...

Jus curious to know if anyone has had any experience with the Pro Line Powerstroke shocks for the SC10. I'm looking to add a second pair of shocks to my equipment and was intrigued by these but at almost $100 for all four, I was really wondering if they're worth it.

I know of two guys that have tried them. Both are struggling with spring rates and one removed them completely.
The one guys is going to try different springs and see how they will work.

I believe they do... if you do the Losi-type conversion (spring cups and upper retainers) on your SC10, that we have been talking about on here. However, I'm not sure why someone would want to unless they already have a bunch of Kyosho BB spring, they are over $20 a pair! :eek: Insanity if you ask me.

Also, quick question, I currently am running a gear ration of 18/87 on my F.T., with a 10.5T Thunder Power motor. I am getting great temps. (always less then 150F), but feel that I should be able to get a bit more speed out of the setup. I could program my MMP to go into C.H.E.A.T. mode, but prefer to leave that alone and change the gearing first (I assume it's a better option, I'm not sure). Anyways, if I am getting decent temps. with the 18/87 ratio, what gear ratio would you guys recommend for a bit on an increase in speed down the straight-away? Thanks!

I really like the idea of adjusting the offset on the truck instead of the wheel with a few quick change parts, vs. having to buy whole sets of wheels/tires to be able to change at the track.

If you have the Associated RS HEX conversion on your 2wd SC10, the +3 Hazard Wheels extend it out to roar legal max, so i've read.

So are the Hazard +3mm the same offset as any stock sc10 4wd? And are AKA wheels for SC10 4x4/RS essentially +3mm as well, even though they don't mention +3mm like the Hazards do?

The Hazard stuff is all backordered. Wanna order some AKA if they in fact extend it out to ROAR legal with as the +3 Hazards do, when using the RS conversion on my FT SC10. Thanks!!

I've never tried them, but in my research it seemed the V2's had better performance, plus I was worried about being able to find spare & springs for the proline's as none of my LHS's had them.

For the basher they may help, but I think for racing where you know where and how hard the big landings will be, you can better tune for botom-out protection via pistons and shock oil weights since the oil provides more resistance at high speed going though the same piston holes.