Getting ready to try my ftsc10 indoor on med bite clay. What setup have you guys found to hookup and easy to drive? Thanks

Thank you, got it.

After reading this description, it sounds like any ol' SC10 4x4 and the new Hazard +3 wheels have the identical offset (that is, they both have +3mm). The regular ol' SC10 wheels however mention nothing about +3mm. They just say SC10 4X4 (the ad below actually does mention 3mm offset, but it's the only one. No other SC10 4x4 wheels do).

Since the Hazard +3mm is out of stock, just pick up any ol' SC10 4x4 wheel right?

Am I the only one totally confused by this? Holy crap.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ack-2-SC10-4x4

No, you're certainly NOT alone. It's all very confused, and NOT helped any by the manufacturers not posting offsets.

I have the ProLine hex set up, and it uses 10mm offset wheels, and I'm trying to figure out cross compatibility to expand my wheel choice.

M2C tapered pistons?
 

Anybody tried or currently using the M2C tapered pistons in their SC10 FT shocks? I just won a set on Ebay and just trying to get a little feedback/setup advice on running them. I use the CSI pistons in my 8b 2.0 and I like them so I decided to give tapered pistons a chance in my SC10. Thanks!

I want to do the 12mm hex rear Do I take the blue plate off and leave the 2 shims then put the plastic 12mm wheel hub spacer? Please help

Running 4300kv 2 pole think 9t equivalent motor and 120a esc. I have it geared 87/24.. anyone know where the sweet spot would be? I had it 87/19 but rather sacrifice runtime so I run it 87/24.

I was thinking 84/19? :confused:

Pretty much any 4-40 locknut will work.

AE wheels and JC Rulux are functionally the same. +0 offset. They are also too narrow if you want max legal width.

JC Hazard wheels are wider than ^^^^^^ by 3mm and make a stock SC10RS and Stock SC10 4x4 max legal width.

If you have the AE axles, you probably want the wider Hazards, but the Rulux and stock AE wheels will also work.

If you have the Proline axles, you probably want the narrower stock AE or the Rulux wheels because the Hazards are too wide, and other than being illegal, they hit the body.

Clear?

Perfect

I am relatively new to the new technology within this hobby. I have heard about boosting and have a question about that. How does one go about doing this? Is it as simple as physically adjusting the timing on the end bell of the motor? I see that one of my Orion motors has little hash marks probably for such a thing. But what about Tekin or even Novak motors? Is there more to it than adjusting the motor? Do you need a computer? Why would one buy a 7.5 or 8.5 turn motor when they could boost a 13.5? I dont quite follow all of the logic or hype. Please share with me your thoughts on this topic. Thanks.

Thank you craigMBA for the right up on hex. I'm not crystal clear, but we're getting there. That helped. I am just going to buy the AE hub converion with Hazard +3. This is for sure what I want (ROAR legal width). I just don't wanna buy something else and screw it up.

I was told there was going to be no math when I entered my RC career :weird:. Haha!!

FWIW Panic, I just converted my SC10 FT fronts to the AE hex hub setup today, and sso far I dont like it.

More friction than the FT setup (Easy to tell just by spinning the front wheels), and the hex hubs dont snap or clamp on so they come off in your wheels, you have to worry about losing the pins, etc...

Just a first impression, but I fear that my laziness in not wanting to pop the bearings out of my wheels after every run is going to result in inferior performance and just as much hassel.:(

Yea I didn't think that was cool either. It's the AE "thin nuts" but if you can find a nylon nut that would fit that would be the way to go. Even with loctite those nuts seem to get loose on me.

Yes, you want to remove the blue "cone-ish" type spacer, and leave the 2 shims on.